The Hoya Handbook

DBRARY
TMH HEW YORK BQTAKtCAC GARDEN

BftONX, NEW YORK 10458
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2017 with funding from
IMLS LG-70-15-0138-15
https://archive.org/details/hoyahandbookguidOOklop
The Hoya
Handbook
A Guide for the Grower & Collector
By Dale Kloppenburg
with
n
The Hoya Handbook

A Guide for the Grower & Collector
By Dale Kloppenburg with Ann Wayman
ISBN 0-9630489-1-0
Published in the U.S.A.

by Orca Publishing Co.
P.O. Box 1003
Medford, Oregon 97501-0071
Copyright 1992©
All Rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,

stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior
permission of Orca Publishing Co.
.
CONTENTS
Preface i
Introduction ii
Chapter 1 1
About Hoyas
Chapter 2 3
Lands of Discovery
Chapter 3 5
Foliage & Flowers
Chapter 4 7
Care & Culture
Rooting Water 8. .Rooting in A Solid Medium 9. .Growing from

in
Seeds 1 1 ..Light Requirements 1 2.. Food for your Plants

13. Temperatures 15. .Potting Mediums 16. .Pots & Potting
17. Artificial Light 15
Chapter 5 19
Hang-Em-High
Insects & Diseases 23
Insects.. Diseases.. Outdoors
Chapter 6 27
Plant Names
Chapter 7 29
What Hoya Species are Found Where
Chapter 8 51
Questions about Hoyas
Chapter 9 61
Hoya Hall of Fame
30 Hoyas described
Chapter 10 92
114 additional Hoyas described
The Picture Gallery I
1 44 Color Photos
Glossary XXVI
PREFACE
nterest in Hoyas as house plants has increased dramatically in the past ten years.
I Many who started with just a few plants a decade ago, now have large collections.
Busy people from all walks of life are discovering the joys of growing Hoyas as a
hobby. Unlike so many exotic plants from far away places that must be treated with
great care to insure success, these plants seems to thrive on a certain amount of
neglect. This is not to say that they don’t enjoy being pampered.. .they do! But they
can also get by very well without all the coddling and attention that many tropical
plants require.
The question that arises more often than any other from new growers, is... Are there
any books available? The second question from new, and not so new growers
is.. .How do know which Hoyas to buy? The answer to the first question is... that
I
there is very little literature available for the Hoya grower. A rather vague answer!
The answer to the second question is even more vague. Until a few years ago,
there was really no way of knowing what to buy, or exactly what you would get when
you placed an order for Hoyas. It was obvious that a handbook on the care and
culture of species in the Hoya genus was needed, and that this book should also
contain many colored pictures to help with the selection of future purchases.
would have loved to continue my research work into the scientific end of this
I
interesting genus, and watched from the sidelines while someone else did the
writing. However, nobody else volunteered, so after much persistant prodding from
friends and Hoya growers, reluctantly said.. .Why Not!I
After the few days of writing, realized that was actually enjoying every minute
first I I
that spent working on this book. found myself wandering around the green house,
I I
really looking at the plants again.. .examining individual flowers, admiring the dozen
shades of green, bronze and pink of the different foliage. Tracing veins and leaf
patterns with my eyes. This is a part of plant growing that had almost forgotten I
existed.
I would like to dedicate this book to Hoya lovers all over the world.
... As for me...
I think I’ll just sit here awhile and watch my plants grow!
Dale Kloppenburg
1
INTRODUCTION
oya is a group (genus) of plants that belong to the milkweed family,

H Asclepiadaceae. The family occurs in the temperate regions of the world. The
largest number of species are from the tropics and subtropics, especially South
America and Southern Africa. Most have a milky sap. The flowers are borne in
cymes, racemes or umbels. Each flower is bisexual (containing both male and
female parts), are regularly symmetrical, of 5 partly fused sepals and 5 fused petals.
Various classification schemes usually divide the family into parts and subparts.
Joseph Decaisne in De Candolle’s Prodromus divided the Asclepiad family into 5
suborders. The 5th being Stapeliae; consisting of 2 divisions. Division II
Ceropegiae, contains among other genera, Stapelia, Ceropegia, Dischidia and
Hoya.
The Hoya genus can be delineated by pollen masses being erect or connivent,
upon the stigma (the edge of the stigma table), fixed by the base, or beneath
lying
the middle of the side. Anthers terminated by a membrane (anther appendage).
The genus was named for Mr. Thomas Hoy, the intelligent and successful cultivator
of wide renown, who worked for the Duke of Northumberland at Sion House,
England. Hoya is the Latinization of his name.
ii
Chapter 1
As with things in nature we cannot be dogmatic

many
concerning the various aspects of this plant genus.
W e could say that

some
tree trunks or
Hoyas are
species that are more
vines. ..and the majority are.
like bushes than vines.
There are, however,
Most twine and climb up
among the branches of large shrubs, but many species are pendant,
hanging down over large limbs, exposing their dangling stems to the monsoon winds
of the moist tropics. Again... the largest number of Hoya species are found as
epiphytes and usually hang in the branches and crowns of tall jungle trees seeking
sunlight, yet many start their life in the dampness of the tropic forest floor. Seed,
borne on the wind, alight and germinate in this dampness. The climbers find their
way up stems, tree trunks and branches to eventually die out below and find life
support in the tree tops above. Millions of these seeds germinate, but only a small
percentage establish themselves and grow to maturity.
I have seen enormous plants covering the massive crowns of giant forest trees.
Vines in profusion. ..hanging 30-40 feet in a dangling mass from huge primary forest
trees. Some species, small in nature may form a compact, clump-like mat on a tree
limb.
Though numerous Hoyas prefer limestone ledges, outcroppings or boulders, most

are lowland species, even living in the mangroves at sea
here level. But,
again. ..some species can be found at high altitudes. In the cool mists and cloud
covered mountain tops of the tropical rainforests they enjoy almost constant
moisture and high humidity. Intermediate and low elevation Hoyas often exist in an
atmosphere where there is no spring, summer, fall, or winter.. .only a wet or dry
season.
1
ome
areas that Hoyas inhabit are extremely dry for long periods of time. Inland
S from Darwin, Australia, a Hoya may be subject to rainfall only once in 3 to 5
years when the monsoon rain pattern changes, and a storm sweeps inland to these
areas. Under these dry conditions, the plants develop thick, succulent leaves that
are capable of storing moisture for survival until the next supply of water arrives. In
fact, most Hoyas have rather thick leaves and can be considered succulent in nature.
But, once again. ..there are exceptions, and we find a few species that have very
thin leaves. The range of diversity in foliage seems to run from thin and fragile, to
very thick and succulent. In habitat... from seashore to high tropical mountain tops.
In growth habit.. .from vinelike climbers to bushes, shrubs, and graceful pendant
forms. would also like to add, from wee flowers, barely visible, to huge flowers
I
over three inches across.
In the course of my own collecting trips,have found that most hoyas seem to
I
prefer the edges of the darkened forest where there is some light, yet not the open
areas of scrub and grass where the sunlight is intense. As was mentioned above,
there are exceptions such as the dry regions of North Eastern Thailand, and the
desolate territory inland from Darwin Australia. Traveling stream courses is
especially productive in yielding Hoya specimens, but also the edges of cultivated
fields and most often, but not exclusively, on old primary forest trees. In these trees,
often isolated in many areas due to forest destruction, we often find one or more
Hoya species flourishing in the crown or twining among the aerial roots and gnarled
trunks. Areas where trees have been cut for timber or slash and burn agriculture,
power line clearing and other such human undertakings, are excellent places to find
mature plants, and usually many seedlings among the moss, broken limbs and
rotting wood. The area where found the most extensive growth of Hoyas, was in
I
a cultivated field of T aro, growing profusely among the rotting trunks of forest giants,
and on adjacent small trees left for shade, on the island of Upolo in Western Samoa.
In our collecting endeavors, we must always keep conservation in mind, and not
stripwhole plants away, but leave major portions to continue their growth. We can,
afterall, make a herbarium specimen from a small portion of a piant, and even grow
thousands of plants in the course of time, from a one node cutting brought in from
the wild. In areas that are destined to be burned, it is another matter. Plants
exposed to the direct rays of the sun with their shade canopy destroyed, will not
survive for long, but often long enough to flower and fruit.. .in human terms, a
desperate attempt at species survival, a one more time effort to reproduce before
death. There is no intelligent intent on the part of the plant, only a response to
physiological conditions.
2
C hapter 2
Lands of Discovery ««««««

oyas are found in many exotic places. Their westward extension is on the island
H of Sri Lanka (Ceylon), off the South Western coast of India. They are found in
peninsular India, the upper Ghats region, the Punjab, Simla and Sikkim, around
Kolimpong in the foothill region of the Himalayas, and to the East in the Kasi and
Naga hill country. From here Eastward into Burma, Thailand, Southern China, Laos,
Cambodia and Vietnam. There are species found on Taiwan and the island of
Okinawa south of Japan proper. Numerous species have been discovered in New
Guinea, and also the Philippines with its 1 400 islands. Another large collection area
is Sumatra, Malaya, the islands of Indonesia, Borneo, and the Celebes. In Australia
around Darwin facing the Arafura Sea, on to Cape York and down the East coastal
areas south to Northern New South Whales. From the Australian Mainland and
across the Main island of New Guinea they are found on all the lesser islands of
New Ireland, New Britain, Bougainville and on down the islands of the Solomon
chain, and South to Vanuatu (New Hebrides) and New Caledonia. They are at home
even further to the East in the many islands of the Fiji group, on to Tonga and the
Samoan Islands. In the American Trust territories, one species each are found on
the islands of Truck and Ponapae.
vast area there are islands, valleys, mountain slopes, and

In all this
hidden canyons where Hoyas have not yet been collected. Our
chances of discovering new species is certain.
3
1 . PEDICEL
2. CALYX (Sepal)
3. COROLLA
4. CORONA
5. STIGMA HEAD
6. STIGMA receptive area
7. POLLINARIUM
8. OVARIES
9. OVARY
10. CORONA inner lobe
11. CORONA outer lobe
12. CORONAL GROOVE
13. ANTHER wing
14. ANTHER appendage

15. POLLINIA
Cross Section of Flower
16. TRANSLATOR
17. RETINACULUM
18. LIGULE
• 5
4
Chapter 3
»»»»»» Foliage & Flowers «««««« j
ntil were only a few Hoya species available for the plant lover to
recently there
U enjoy. Within the past 10 to 15 years, a well deserved interest in this genus
has led to a flurry of collecting, and the available species and clones has grown year
by year. It is a continuing quest that is interesting, educational, a boon to the
conservation of these species and above all exciting. I’m sure most will agree this
is a group of plants that are beautiful, exotic and well worth your devoted attention
and study. Even when not in bloom the well cared for plants exhibit beautiful foliage,
each species different in color, texture, shape and markings. It is always a joy to
observe the development of the new growth, often with bronze, maroon and reddish
tones of color.
Most Hoyas have opposite leaves, two at each node, but again we have an
exception in the case of the H. imbricata complex. One leaf of these species aborts
or does not develop and the remaining circular leaf oppresses itself closely to the
trunks of Palms and other forest trees, most often with one leaf overlapping the next,
shingle fashion. This gives rise to the specific name which means
of "imbricata
11
overlapping. The stem is cupped leaves under which are

usually covered by these
many rootlets. This is an ideal hiding and nesting place for ants which take full
advantage of a place to call home. Thus in many cases a colony of small ants can
be found here (a sort of symbiotic relationship). Actually, if you pull a plant off of
the tree trunk, "the ants will find you". The plant winds its way up the tree trunks
often almost completely covering the surface, orienting themselves to the preferred
amount of light, moisture and exposer to the jungle breezes.
All Hoya flowers are a study in perfection; starlike in appearance with their five
petals, and a gorgeous central crown that sits atop the flower like a queen’s tiara.
Described by many as "molded in porcelain", "sculptured in wax". One of the most
beautiful of nature’s creations, and all but a few have a lovely fragrance. The
5
inflorescence on most Hoyas consist of 20 to 30 flowers per umbel. While some
species will have as many as 50 or 60, others have as few as 2 to 4. The larger
flowered species usually have fewer flowers, but make up for it in sheer
magnificence.
6
C hapter 4
Care & Culture of "The Stars"
»»»»»» Propagation ««««««

n the process of collecting rare and exotic plants, there are times and under some
I conditions that seed pods are collected. The seed is sown and the resulting plants
are grown on to maturity. the case of Hoyas, virtually all of the species that we
In
have under today were originally brought in from the wild as cuttings.
cultivation
These long pieces of plant stems, hopefully, with some leaves still intact, were cut
into smaller pieces, just below a leaf node (or growing point), and rooted in many
different mediums, ranging from plain water, to sand, and all types of mixtures
in-between. This form of multiplying plants is called "vegetative propagation", and
results in a plant genetically identical to the parent plant. Our Grandmothers used
to call these cuttings slips, and to "slip a plant" meant only that it was being
propagated from a cutting.
Hoyas are one of the easiest of plants to propagate from cuttings. It is possible,
however, to fail to get a cutting to root, so a few suggestions may be helpful.
When plants arrive in the mail, they may be dehydrated, or highly stressed, and
will benefit from a soaking for a few hours in mildly warm water, to which a little table
sugar has been added. Although the sugar helps to give the cuttings extra strength
and some food reserve, the amount of sugar isn’t as important as getting moisture
back into the leaves. A quarter cup of sugar to two gallons of warm water should
be adequate. Even adding a few drops of Vitamin B-1 won’t hurt. This process helps
to keep your cuttings from further wilting and so increases your chances for survival
until they can form a root.
7
Rooting in Water ««««««
et’s start with water as a rooting medium. If you’re rooting many cuttings at a
L time, a pint size, wide mouthed jar, filled with tepid water works well. A short,
narrow necked vase is best for one or two cuttings at a time. Wrap the jar or vase
with aluminum foil to keep out the light. Extending the foil above the mouth of the
jar, and tucking it over the lip to make the opening narrower will also help to hold
the cuttings upright. You won’t need to do this with the vase. Lang cuttings lose
moisture from the leaves and stems by a process with a jaw-breaking title of
"evapotranspiration", or to put it simply, by evaporation and transpiration leading to
wilt. So keep your cuttings as short as possible. In most cases a 6" cutting is ideal,
but not always possible with Hoyas that have very long internodes between leaves.
On cuttings that have their leaves close together, remove the bottom layer of leaves
so at least one node, minus the leaves will be under water. It is in these growth
points, or nodal areas where the growth hormones are concentrated, so you will
usually get a root in 4 to 10 days. A light dusting of a root hormone powder, or a
drop or two of vitamin B-1 solution may hasten rooting. The idea is to get a good
root system as quickly as possible with little or no wilting. Place your cuttings in
lukewarm or tepid water and keep in a well lighted, warm, humid area. If the cutting
is wilted or the humidity is naturally low, you may need to place a poly bag loosely
over the top of the cutting and jar. Cut a small corner from the poly bag to allow
steam to escape in case the room heats up to a point where the cuttings are in
danger of being cooked from the heat that forms inside the bag. As soon as you
see a strong root system develop, it is safe to "pot up" the plant in a soilless or soil
based medium.
8
Rooting in a Solid Medium
W hen rooting
soil
in sponge rock, sphagnum moss,
or other moisture holding media,
but not sopping wet.
it
The mix should be loose enough,

is
fine bark chips, loose potting
necessary to keep the medium moist
be of such texture as to
or
provide moisture, while allowing all excess water to pass on through (good
drainage). Be sure the medium and container are sterile! As with the water method,
a rooting hormone or vitamin B-1 will also aid rooting in other mediums. Most rooting
hormones also contain a fungicide which will counter-act any soil born fungus
diseases that may be lurking in soil based mixes. Hormones are not essential,
however. People have been rooting cuttings with almost 100% success since long
before hormones were marketed, so don’t let a lack of hormones on hand deter you
from rooting new cuttings. Small leaved hoya cuttings are handled differently than
the very large leaved types.. .the intermediate types fall somewhere in between. For
the tiny miniatures, ten nodes, or more may make a good cutting and still be relatively
short. Some of the large leaved, heavy stemmed Hoyas may arrive at your home
with only one set of leaves, or, as is sometimes the case, only 1 leaf. With these
large leaved species, a single node makes an adequate cutting. In these
circumstances, the stem, with the leaf attached is pushed into the medium to just
cover the node, leaving the leaf blade in the open air. Here is where setting the cut
into the medium at an angle aids in doing it correctly.
In some very extreme cases (such as traveling long distances by mail) plants will
arrive with no leaves whatsoever. Don’t despair! A plants’ ability to live has always
been a puzzle, and nowhere is more prevalent than in this instance of bringing a
it
half dead plant back to life. Plant these leafless stems in the same manner that you
would plant a stem with leaves. If they are going to recover and live, they normally
form a tiny leaf, or leaf bud first, then a root (this phenomenon is quite typical in
Orchids.) Once the root is established and growing, the leaf may dry up and fall off,
but, don’t give up! This seems to be a normal process, and if there is a shred of life
left in them, they can usually be saved. You can usually tell whether stem cuttings
have developed a root by their outward appearance. They look plumper, and are
a healthier looking green or sometimes even brown, but they don’t have that "sick
to death" look of cuttings that are dead, but refuse to fall over. As long as the root
system is alive, the plant will eventually begin to grow, often producing new shoots
directly from the roots. This may take a few days, or a year or more, and you might
want to consider whether it is worth the trouble. With very rare or expensive cuttings,
it is certainly worth every effort. Don’t be tempted to lift any cutting to see what is
happening, and don’t bump or move the stem. Lsave them in a warm, humid, well
lighted spot, and ordinarily in 2-3 weeks you may expect to see the beginnings of
new growth.
9
Leaves from Hoyas will root, but seldom if ever form into plants. Adventitious buds
must first form to produce a shoot and new leaves, this seldom ever happens! I
believe, however, with some manipulation and scarring of the callused area and the
addition of a shoot hormone, growing plants from leaves might be possible.
Continuous mist systems: with very loose materials i.e. sponge rock, loose coral
etc., a continuous fine mist or an intermittent misting to keep the cuttings
continuously damp will promote rooting. All excess moisture must drain away. It
takes some preparation to devise this set up but it is almost fool proof. In a way this
is similar to the water method.
HINTS: (1) Always have at least 1 node buried if possible. (2) keep cuttings short.
(3) If you have several cuttings of a plant, try them in different rooting mediums. (4)
Lay cuts of small species horizontally with a node or two covered. (5) Make fresh,
clean cuts before applying rooting hormone, and blow or thump off the excess. (6)
Bottom heat of 70 degrees fahrenheit will hasten rooting. (7) Keep the humidity high
to reduce evapotranspiration and the subsequent wilting of the leaves, until rooting
begins in a day or two.
One final note: Remember which end is up and which is down. The J
growing end does not like to be buried. It may root but new growth will J
be slowed until the cutting has had time to re-orient itself.
10
»»»»»» Growing from Seeds ««««««
you are lucky enough to live where Hoyas will produce pods, you can collect the
f
I seeds and sow them. Hoya seeds lose their viability quickly over time, so the
fresher the seeds, the better your chance of success. These fresh, mature seeds
will germinate easily on a damp medium. A commercial seed sowing mix can be
purchased, or your seed can be sown on a bed of fine peat moss, clipped sphagnum,
or fine potting soil. If you like to experiment, synthetics, such as moist blotting paper,
burlap or fine tissue can be used to germinate your seed. The best of these will pull
free from the tiny sprouts when you are ready to separate and pot up the individual
plants. The greatest danger other than becoming dry is "damp off", a fungus disease
that attacks seedlings at the soil line, causing them to collapse and die. It is a good
idea to spray the surface of your seed bed ahead of time with a good systemic
fungicide. Benlate, (Benomyl) mixed according to directions, is excellent.
Snails and slugs can wipe out an entire tray of seedlings... in one night! If you
suspect that you have these pests in the near vicinity, get out the slug bait!. Keep
your seedlings moist, warm, and in good light. If you have potted up your seedlings
into a regular potting mix, they will need no fertilizer for several months.. .perhaps
as long as a year. If, on the other hand, you have used sponge rock, vermiculite,
or other soilless mediums, you should begin a moderate feeding program as soon
as the seedlings display two sets of regular leaves. Many seedlings have been
burned back or killed by fertilizer, so feed with a light hand. One tenth the strength
recommended for mature plants should be adequate for these tiny babies.
Fertilizer is not a cure-all. It won’t cure a diseased plant. In fact,

only healthy plants in active growth should be provided with additional
nourishment, unless the plants’ illness can be diagnosed as lack of
nutrition.
11
»»»»»» Light Requirements ««««««
ight is the very essence of life for all plants. It regulates the three essential
L processes growth and development. Photosynthesis, as discussed
for earlier,
is the plant’s procedure for converting light energy into food energy.
Phototropism refers to a plants’ natural tendency to grow toward their light source.
This process is controlled by growth hormones (auxins) in the stem tips and
youngest leaves. These auxins are highly reactive to light and cause the plant to
adjust itself toward the brightest light source.
Photoperiodism is the plants’ natural approach to its’ light and dark cycles. To put
it simply.. .a plant performs best in the same cycle of light and dark periods which
most closely resemble those of their original habitat.
Fortunately for us, Hoyas seem to grow, and even bloom without regard to the
length of their day. ..provided of course, that there is a definite period of light and
darkness.
In areas where plants can be grown outdoors a moderately shaded setting, this
in
is usually no problem. ..the light comes on when the sun rises, and
in the morning
goes off at night when the sun goes down. The same principal applies in a green
house.. .the plants get an adequate amount of light and darkness, and thrive with
little, or no intervention on our part, other than to make sure that they don’t suffer
from lack of water.
Growing Hoyas or any other plants in our home takes a certain amount of planning.
There are many determining factors that dictate how much light is available within
a home. Even in the same room, light intensity can vary drastically from one location
to another. Each changing season brings a different angle and intensity to the
sunlight that enters our homes through windows. We need to determine well in
advance whether the proper amount of light is going to be available on a year-round
basis.
"Bright indirect light" is an appropriate description of the light

required for good growth and bloom by almost all Hoyas. There are a
few species that actually prefer a shadier location, just as there are
some species that prefer almost full sun in order to grow and bloom
well. Watch your plants closely. ..they will usually let you know by
their appearance whether they are happy, or just barely surviving.
12
»»»»»» Food For Your Plants «««««« *#*•#*¥&<%•&&
mixed with yellowed, insect chewed leaves, dead

lants in the wild are ragged,
P and dying stems, and usually, leaves that are smaller and thicker than cultivated
plants. The transformation to culture is often amazing, and proves that our cultivated
plants certainly get more attention and loving care.
Every on our planet requires food for energy. The essential elements
living thing
for health and growth are sugar and other carbohydrates. Unlike animals, however,
plants utilize the energy of the sun to manufacture their own food, through a process
called photosynthesis.
In photosynthesis, light energy, carbon dioxide, and water combine with the green
plant pigment, chlorophyll, to produce plant sugars and oxygen, which is released
into our atmosphere.
Photosynthesis requires an environment with a sufficient amount of light, warm

temperatures, and the proper amount of humidity.
So called "plant foods" can never compensate for a poor environment, since
fertilizer provides only the nutritional building materials, not the plant’s real food. ..the
sugar it manufactures by photosynthesis.
The organic decomposition peat moss, sphagnum, bark and other plant potting
of
media will provide your plants with a lot of their nutritional "building blocks". In
nature, we have decomposed bark, litter, dust, animal manure from birds, bats, ants
etc., even rain water contains nitrogen the most essential element in plant nutrition.
These provide the necessary nutrients, but we want our home grown Hoyas to look
better than plants struggling
in the wild, so we protect them from the wind, the driving
rains, thescorching sun.. .and we try to provide them with any minerals that they
might be lacking. The question that arises is what is necessary and what is excess.
Too much fertilizer, and we have a dead or badly burned plant. Good common
sense tells us to use and on potted plants in weak solutions
fertilizers judiciously,
or concentrations. If the plant is in growth it needs a constant source
continuously
of food. The plant takes up nutrients in the form of ions and can not tell the difference
between organic and inorganic sources. They also can not tell the difference
between cheap and expensive substances.
Lets look at plant nutrition and nutrients closely. Of the more than 100 chemical
elements known to man today, 1 6 are known to be essential for plant growth. Others
may eventually be found to play some role in plant growth or function in very minute
amounts. Many of us would mentally skip over the 3 major ones (carbon, hydrogen,
13
and oxygen) because they are so common. In a sense, they are "free" because
they are taken from the air and water. The 1 3 other essential elements are normally
absorbed from the soil by the root system, or to a lesser degree, by being absorbed
through the foliage, such as in foliar feeding. These 13 elements are divided into
primary, secondary, and micro plant nutrients, and are separated into these
divisions on the basis of the relative amounts required for plant growth. None is
more essential than any other, regardless of the amounts required.
riefly, carbon is a basic building block for plant life. It is taken from the air in the
B form carbon dioxide. Photosynthesis combines the carbon with hydrogen
of
and oxygen to form carbohydrates. Oxygen is required for plant respiration, and
hydrogen, along with oxygen, forms water, which constitutes a large portion of the
total plant weight. This water is required for the transport of minerals and plant food
and the chemical reactions necessary for plant growth.
The primary plant nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Most of the
nitrogen is taken up by plants in the nitrate form (negative ions or the chemical
formula NO-). The phosphorous is absorbed as HPO-, HPO=or PO= depending
on the soil pH (its acidity). Plants take up the potassium in the form of a positive
ion, K-h In the fertilizer we purchase for our Hoya plants, the various 3 numbered
formulas on the labels, e.g. 8-24-10, 12-36-14, 20-20-20 etc., stand for these 3
primary nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, and, in that order as N P
K and represents the percent by weight.
The secondary magnesium, and sulphur. The 7

plant nutrients are calcium,
micronutrients are zinc, iron, manganese, copper, boron, molybdenum, and
chlorine. Balance is important in plant nutrition, and our objective should be to
supplement the capacity of our potting mix to supply nutrients for ideal growth and
flower production.
There are many choices for the consumer. Keep

mind what you want, what you
in
are getting, and what price you are paying. most instances you need only
In
supplement the nutrients already present. It may be well to occasionally supply
micronutrients. Though the majority of the better known brands of specialty plant
foods contain these micro-nutrients, they are usually quite expensive, as they are
packaged in small quantity. On the other hand, huge bulk sacks of plant food may
go to waste if it takes years to use. Foliar sprays and slow release fertilizers also
have their place. The former for quick response and the latter because they need
be applied so infrequently. Many growers will apply a high nitrogen fertilizer in the
spring when rapid growth is desirable, then switch to high phosphorus in the fall
when growth slows in order to promote bloom, and to harden off the plants for the
cooler winter months.
14
»»»»»» Temperatures ««««««
T emperatures for the be covered more thoroughly in our Hall
individual species will
of Fame. For now, let it suffice to say Hoya species are considered
briefly that all
either tropical or semi-tropical. Though some few species can survive a light freeze
for a short time, most will not survive if exposed to temperatures below 50° F. (10°
C) Many will die if exposed to temperatures under 60° F. (1 5°C.). When we live in
areas of cold winters and without heated greenhouses we have learned to be
window sill gardeners, basement gardeners, and plant room gardeners (some plant
rooms are situated in attics), and all under that wonderful artificial light called
"flourescent".
oyas can be grown and will flower beautifully under artificial light. The small
H growing species are especially valuable for this method of growing. There are
many types of light stands available, some employing very elaborate and expensive
grow lights. The research done on this form of growing indicates that nothing
elaborate is required. A simple table or shelf with some way of hanging lights fairly
close to the plants is all that is needed. Inexpensive shop lights with flourescent
tubes work just as good as any other. It seems to be the number of hours spent
under the lights each day that determines how a plant will grow, rather than the
quality of the light. You will need at least two 4’ long, 40 watt tubes, as the smaller
1 8 and 24 inch tubes don’t put out enough watts for sufficient growth. If you’re trying
to grow plants with flourescent light as your only source of light, keep the lights on
a minimum of 1 2 to 1 4 hours per day. They will, however, need a rest period of total
darkness to give them a chance to manufacture the starches and sugars that they
require in order to grow well. A small inexpensive timer is handy, and can be set to
keep the lights on for whatever time you select, then off for the allotted amount of
time. If you have some light coming through a window, you might want to use the
flourescent lights a few hours a day only, or as a supplement during the dark
overcast days of winter. This constant source of light will result in steady, even
growth and your plants may require more water and fertilizer than they would
normally need.
The one flaw to growing under lights is that some species (not all) will develop red
or rust colored blotches on the foliage. This is not a harmful condition, but not very
attractive, and is thought to be caused from heat build-up. To prevent this, keep a
small fan blowing close to your light growing area so that the air is kept in constant
motion.
15
»»»»»» Potting Medium ««««««
ommercial "all purpose" potting mixes are readily available, convenient to use
C and for the most part contain ingredients suitable for the majority of house
plants. Peat moss
normally the foundation or base ingredient of most house plant
is
mixes with other organic additives such as ground bark, sterilized manure,
composted mold, rice hulls etc. In addition they will contain gritty substances
leaf
for aeration such as coarse sand, pumice, perlite or vermiculite. If you read the
ingredients on the side of the bag, you will usually see that a certain amount of
dolomite lime has also been added.. .this is to neutralize the acid in the peat moss
and helps to maintain a neutral, or very slightly acid condition in the mix.
If you like own potting medium, or experimenting with

the idea of mixing your
various additives, these ingredients can be purchased separately. You may even
all
want to use your own garden soil which is perfectly acceptable. The organic matter
in soil is systematically broken down by microorganisms and forms humus. Humus
is that dark, crumbly material that colors the soil and allows it to hold air, water, and
nutrients. Adding organic amendments such as peat moss, dried manure, ground
bark, leaf mold, or compost will improve your garden soil. After combining this
concoction together thoroughly, it should be sterilized. ..or rather "pasturized" in your
oven. ..use a covered container, and bake at 180 degrees for an hour or so to kill
soil born pests, weed seeds etc. You will also need to check the pH (acid or alkalinity
ratio) of your mix with a testing kit, and add dolomite lime to bring the pH of your
soil to approximately 6.9 which is considered very slightly acid. ..7.0 being
considered neutral.
Without getting too deep into the acid/alkalinity dilemma, it is sufficient to say that
the majority of Hoyas do best in a mix that is neutral, or slightly acid. On the other
hand, there are many Hoya species that are adapted to limestone areas, and will
benefit from chunks of crushed coral, limestone, bits of sea shells, or marble.
Anything that will provide calcium carbonate. Oyster shell is readily available, and
can be purchased at any feed store. It is the same product that is fed to chickens
and turkeys for added calcium in their diet.
16
| . ...... w
»»»»»» Pots and
..................... ............ .-.v.
Potting
...... ......
«««««« M
any of the Hoyas nature are epiphytes. ..most True epiphytes, such
M as Bromeliads, Tillandsias, and
in in fact!.
some Orchids, spend their entire lives on large

trees, high up in the forest tops. The seeds drift on the wind or can be carried on
the fur of small animals, or distributed by birds. Seeds that alight in the debris that
collects in the crotches of branches, will germinate, and there they remain, never
touching the ground. Hoyas are considered epiphytes, but usually start their lives
connected to the ground. They may grow for some time scrambling over bushes,
and climbing into small or sometimes, very large trees. Their climbing and vining
habit makes them extremely adaptable, and although they may start their life on the
ground, if the long, tip end of the vine reaches a tree, it will grab on and begin to
climb. As a rule, the base of the plants eventually die out, and the plant becomes
an epiphyte. If the trees are growing close together, we may find the same plant
growing through the branches of several trees.
We may duplicate this growth type to some extent, if we have the room. ..say a
greenhouse, if it’s large enough, or outdoors in tropical areas. This works best with
small to medium sized species. Find a suitable section of tree trunk or limb and
wrap it with sphagnum, burlap or other material to retain moisture
a place and for
to affix your cuttings (a place of support). Stick rooted cuttings in at various places
and secure them with plasticfloral tape, hair pins or other holders. In areas of intense
sunlight throughout most of the year, these plants will do better on the north, shaded
side of the trunk. on the other hand you live in an area of many dark overcast
If
days or coastal fog, your plants will probably be happier in a south-east exposure.
Once established, many Hoyas will thrive in this condition, and even enjoy sharing
space with other epiphytyes. It is almost impossible to overwater plants in this
situation. They will however, need watering almost daily in summer, and in areas
of low humidity.
Although our old standby.. .the heavy "terra cotta" clay pot is still popular and used
extensively for the "really big" species, plastic pots are preferred by most growers
for obvious reasons. They are easy to clean and sterilize for re-use, they are
lightweight and easy to store, they can be purchased in square shapes, which
means that more will fit in a given area. They are relatively inexpensive, and
moisture retention is better, which can be a plus or minus. In recent years, we have
also had a selection of pressed fiber and styrofoam pots. Most Hoyas, even the
heavy stemmed, strong growing ones can be started in a 4" pot. If space is a
consideration on your cutting table, two or three cuts of the same clone may be
started in the same pot, and separated into individual pots at a later date. Large
vigorous species like H. diversifolia, meliflua, obovata, macrophylla, latifolia,
polystachya, kerrii, and fraterna may be moved directly to a 6" pot or hanging basket
17
if you prefer.. .just be careful of overpotting! It is usually better to wait until the plant
growing in a 4" pot shows signs of being rootbound to move it to a larger pot. When
repotting, make 2-4 vertical slices through the root ball to provide ends from which
the new roots will start. Repot with fresh mix around this root mass and bury just
below the new soil line, firm the mix and water thoroughly. Place in subdued light
for a week or so, then gradually move into better light.
Cuttings of small growing species, and seedlings of all types should be handled
seedlings should be transferred first into 2" pots at the 3-4 leaf
differently, in that
stage, and later, as they become established, to successively larger pots. Cuttings
of the very tiny miniature species can be potted up, three to four cuttings per 4" or
5" pot, where they can live their entire lives. They will require fresh potting mixture
occasionally, but will notneed a bigger pot. All that is necessary is to remove the
plant from the old pot, shake or wash off the old, depleted potting mixture, trim off
any dead roots, and place in fresh potting medium in a clean pot of the same size.
Do not isolate plants in small pots. They will be easier to attend to, and keep watered
if placed close together. This will also help to raise the humidity in the area.
Here are a few basic rules which should always be

followed: (1) Don’t overpot (2) Use a sterilized medium (3)
Use sterilized pots.. .in other words, keep it small and clean!
In order to look their very best in containers, bushy plants like H. multiflora,
cumingiana and the closely related H. densifolia.. .gracefully pendant forms such as
H. bella and polyneura, and the hanging and dangling types, such as H. tsangii, and
nummularioides need a container of a different type. Wire baskets lined with moss,
then a layer of burlap or fine mesh material to hold in the soil mixture makes an
especially attractive display for these types of plants. As they grow and mature they
may root on the damp moss along the sides and even send runners out the sides
and bottom.
H. serpens, a small creeping species from the cool Himalayan regions, places
swept by monsoon breezes, seem to prefer a shallow container kept moist and
shaded. A cool, semi shady spot under a bench seems ideal. On a moss covered
log, it will grow over the edge and dangle down. Tree trunks and horizontal limbs
in semi shade are ideal situations for this and other small species, and are especially
appealing to our desire for a natural setting.
18
C hapter 5
»»»»»» Hang-Em-High
mmediately striking you with their brilliant display of dazzling flowers, gorgeous
I foliage, and dramatic form, Hoyas on display take on a special perspective when
suspended in the air. Hanging gardens are not a novelty, as they have been around
for thousands of years (Remember the Hanging Gardens of Babylon). In growing
hanging plants, you need not abandon any of the basic techniques used in container
gardening on the ground. All you will need is an overhead support from which to
hang your plant.. .and a hanger. Inspiration can help to select the site. ..imagination
can help to construct the hanger.
Selecting the Site
There are many outdoors for hanging plants. If you already have a
possibilities
particular plant in mind, or several that you want to hang, consider these factors
when choosing a location for your hanging garden: Make sure the supporting
structure is strong enough to support both the plants and their containers; nature’s
elements such as sun, wind, and shade, and above all. ..whether the location is
convenient for you.
All Hoyas love early morning sun. Try to pick a spot that gets sun from about
full
7:00 A.M. to 10:00 A.M., then bright shade the remainder of the day. There are
some few Hoyas that can take more sun than this. H. cumingiana for one seems
to prefer considerably more sun than others, but even with this one, it is best to
expose it gradually to a sunnier position, rather than all at once.
The dry winds of summer can play havoc with a hanging plant. Not only can it dry
out the potting medium extremely fast, the humidity is low the foliage can
if lose
19
moisture faster than it can absorb it from the roots, leading to severe wilt. The thinner
leaved plants will usually recover as soon as it cools off in the evening. ..the thick
leaved plants don’t recover so easily. Mist your plants often during extremely hot,
dry weather. The wind can also get a hanging plant to swinging so energetically,
that it comes crashing to the ground. In spite of these hazards, Hoyas do love the
outdoors, and even most of the stubborn bloomers will reward you with a shower
of blossoms after a few months outside.
Along a walkway ««««««

ne of the most beautiful settings for H. compacta Rope Hoya), and
(the Indian
O Hoya known as H. Krinkle 8, is hanging from the
the eaves of a wide walkway
or balcony. These plants are similar in appearance, and both have stunning
variegated versions that add even more value to their use as hanging plants. H.
compacta has tightly twisted and contorted leaves, and looks best three or four if
plants are placed in a very large pot. This is one Hoya that seems to like being
overpotted, and will quickly grow into a lovely specimen plant with a beautiful
cascading habit. The H. Krinkle 8 may be one of the most desireable of all Hoyas
for use in a hanging garden. The foliage of this plant flows out of its container and
cascades gracefully over the sides like a waterfall. Both of these Hoyas are
excellent bloomers, and fairly cold tolerant compared to other Hoya species. Don’t
leave them out the temperature is going to drop below 45° F. (7° C.).
if
Entries and Porches ««««««

What could be a more welcome sight for your guests than a pair of Hoyas
suspended from the overhang above an entry or porch. They could also frame a
door or window, or counterbalance low growing shrubs. Make sure that plants hung
in these areas don’t interfere with traffic patterns or create unnecessary obstacles.
The Patio or Terrace
Ifyou have a shade roof or a wide overhang above your patio, you have the ultimate
hanging garden display case. There is no other location where plants can make
such an impressive impact. You can lay on the lounge and watch them grow. You
can eat your meals among your plants (breakfast is nice). A shady patio with a
porch swing, and lots of green growing plants is a welcome and peaceful setting
20
after a hard days work.. .and because patios and terraces are an extension of the
house your plants are always just a few steps away and can be enjoyed from
itself,
inside or outside.
Always keep an eye on the weather, and remember that the majority of
Hoyas are basically tropical plants from countries where temperatures
.
seldom drop below 60° F. (15° C.). Have a place inside ready for warmth
loving species in case the temperature drops suddenly. This can be the
1 floor of a spare bedroom, a utility room or any other place inside where the
| temperature can be kepi above 60° F. (15° C.). Hopefully, This is merely
an emergency situation and won’t last long. In any case, you will need to
prepare a more permanent location indoors as Summer fades and Fall
approaches.
Hanging Plants Indoors
Plants in decorative hanging containers are the perfect accent for the kitchen or
breakfast room. They provide a garden atmosphere, and offer a feeling of tranquility
to the usual morning rush.
Most modern kitchens nowadays have one large window... usually over
at least
the sink. Ideally, this window should also face east where it will have the benefit of
the first rays of the morning sun. If however, your one and only kitchen window
faces a different direction and is far from the sink, can still be utilized as a setting
it
for a hanging garden.
Select your plants for these areas with great care. Keep
mind that your kitchen
in
is the busiest place in the house, so you won’t want a plant with a huge spreading
habit, nor one that constantly dangles in everyone’s face.
If your windows face south or west, the sunlight close to a window may be too
intense. Before locating your plants in or near a window that receives direct sun,
consider putting up a sun shield of some sort. This device can be as simple as a
thin curtain, Venetian blinds, or a folding, dressing room privacy screen. Or.. .choose
a location off to the side of a window, where it will receive light at an angle instead
of head-on. Do watch your plants! Pale, dull looking foliage may indicate that it is
receiving too much light, while weak, spindly growth, and dropping leaves are a sure
sign of inadequate light.
In the Hoya genus there are many species that are considered miniature and semi
miniature in size. H. lacunosa is a small growing plant that prefers the subdued light
from a north, or northeast facing window, and loves the warmth and humidity of a
21
kitchen or bathroom. The unidentified species labeled H. sp. Kutching Borneo ML# (I
232) is another ideally suited plant for these conditions. There are numerous others
that will do equally well, but it may take some experimenting on your part to find the
perfect plant for that perfect spot.
If your window faces east, you have a very large selection from which to choose.
Virtually all Hoyas will do well in this situation. Your main concern will be in the
eventual size of the plant. Never forget that there are literal monsters in the Hoya
genus that can grow to 60 feet tall with a spread of 4 or 5 feet across, and have
stalks the diameter of broomsticks. They can weigh up to 1 00 pounds or more, and
are better suited to a container on the ground. Among the giants are: H. meliflua,
H. fraterna, H. kerrii, H. obovata, H. macrophylla, H. polystachya, H. diversifolia, H.
meredithii, H. fuscomarginata, H. imperialis, and the plant known as H. diversifolia
B. Remember also that several of these exude a thick black nectar that can actually
ruin furnishings and rugs. These are just a few of the largest of the known species.
There are many that are borderline, and although they can grow very tall, the stems
are thinner and thus more flexible and suitable for twining around a hoop or
otherwise tamed to fit the available space.
The High Wire Act ««««««

ow you have selected the plants, and chosen the location,
that it is time to
N consider the container, and by what method it will take to the air.
Containers can be anything from the nursery pot that the plants were purchased
in,to all kinds of fancy ceramic pots made especially for such plantings. Containers
are for eye appeal alone, and there is nothing to limit your choice except lack of
imagination. One word of advice. ..be careful of planting directly into pots without
drainage holes. is much wiser to allow your plant to remain in a pot with good
It
drainage. You can always set this pot down inside of an ornamental one with a
layer of gravel. ..Nobody else ever needs to know, and you can draw off any excess
water from an over-enthusiastic watering with a turkey baster.
Unless you have the time to carry each pot to the sink for watering each week, and
the patience to wait for them to finish dripping before hanging them back up, it is
absolutely essential that your plant containers should have some method for
catching water drips. Plastic hanging baskets almost always come with detachable
saucers. Unfortunately these saucers are usually quite shallow and unless you
water with a very light hand, you will get an overflow onto your floor. Got an old
umbrella?. ..hang it upside down on the rim of your pot. It will catch all the drips
while you carry on with the rest of your household chores.
22
»»»»»» Insects & Diseases ««««««
»»»»»» Diseases
oyas in general are subject to few diseases. Well grown plants, given the proper
H environment, are for the most part disease free. Under stress such as extremely
moist (high humidity) conditions for extended periods of time, Hoyas are subject to
fungus diseases. The fungus phomomis attacks Hoyas as well as the fungus
anthracnosis, though the occurrences are so rare and isolated as to be insignificant.
Seedling plants are subject to the damp-off organisms which girdle the tender shoot
at the soil line. This can be prevented or controlled with the use of a systemic
fungicide like Benomyl or copper based fungicides used according to directions.
It is a known fact that when large populations of one plant are grown in close
it is more likely that an opportunistic pest will attack. So far we have not
proximity,
seen many common plant diseases in Hoyas, probably because of the limited
number of very large Hoya collections. It is assumed that eventually we will face the
invasion of plant viruses. Cultural methods can help protect us from this blind side
attack. Always use sterile potting material, and be sure pots are new or scrubbed
thoroughly and rinsed in a 1 0% solution of Clorox if old pots are to be reused. Rinse
thoroughly in clear water to remove any chlorine left behind. Although many people
prefer the old fashioned clay pot, the newer plastics are ideal, in that the smooth
non-porous surfaces lend themselves so well to sterilization and re-use. As Clorox
tends to rust steel, pruning and cutting instruments should be dipped into a Lysol
solution between each cut to prevent spreading a viral infection from one plant to
another. Most of us will not go to such trouble but if you suspect a virus, the above
precautions will become a necessity. As with Orchids, a virus infected plant is best
destroyed. Even a suspicious plant should be isolated. Viruses usually indicate their
presence as a yellowish mottling of an otherwise green leaf, or a fading of the green
along the veins. Zinc and iron deficiency may also cause this latter pattern in leaves.
»»»»»» Insects ««««««

nsects are the greater problem with Hoyas. Aphids are usually the most prevalent
I pest, and several species of aphid are fond of Hoyas. Different areas will have
different aphids to contend with. The green peach aphid, oat bird cherry aphid and
the yellow oleander aphid are a few of the more common types. You can find aphids
of one kind or another, on just about every plant in your yard. You will also find them
in your greenhouse if they have an easy way in. This can be by intake fans that pull
23
them from outside, they can be brought in on your clothes, or they can get in
in
through the tiniest crack in a screened in window. Aphids, as well as some species
of mealybug and scale share a rather sophisticated technique of giving birth to live
young females during the summer months. These females are born pregnant and
begin to produce live young females of their own within a matter of 24 hours after
birth. At this point.. .no males are needed, so none are born. By late fall, there will
be males as well as females being born. The males always have wings but only
some of the females do. Sexual mating takes place. ..the males die, and the winged
females usually take off to find greener pastures elsewhere. The unwinged females
remain behind and reproduce by laying eggs that overwinter in the rafters of your
greenhouse, in material in your propagating bench, and possibly even in your pots.
These eggs hatch out in the spring, all females, already pregnant and ready to
produce offspring by the millions. Although the most persistent pest, they are also
the easiest to kill. Aphids prefer the new growth, stem terminals and the underside
of tender new foliage. Crush them by hand, or dab them with an alcohol soaked
cotton swab. Diluted alcohol in a spray bottle will cover more area if you have a lot
of affected plants. If the situation gets out of hand, you may have to resort to an
insecticide such as Malathion or Cygon used according to directions. A second or
even third application may be necessary.
In many areas of the world itis the mealybug that growers will encounter most
often, and always seem to be present to some extent. Mealybugs look like small
white wooly globs of cotton. They seem to prefer the pubescent plant types, but are
by no means limited to these Hoyas. Favored places for mealy bugs to congregate
and lay their eggs are in protected areas such as in leaf axils, and where stems
cross or twine together. In the case of the indian rope Hoya they nest deep within
the twisted leaves and are almost impossible to eradicate. The young are so small
they can easily be overlooked. Treatment for this pest is the same as for aphids.
Be ever watchful for their presence, and keep after them or they will get ahead of
you.
Although we see them quite as often as mealybug, scale is another frequent

don’t
visitor to our Hoyas. Usually tan to dark brown in color and dome shaped, these
insects look more like a blister than an insect. A few days after hatching, or in many
cases, live birth, they attach themselves to the stems or leaves of plants, lose their
eyes and legs, and remain in one spot their entire life. Even on close inspection
they look as If they were part of the plant itself. Scale is extremely hard to control
if it gets a foothold on your plants. Mainly because the babies, or crawlers as they
are called, will run underneath the Mother who has a hollowed out depression on
the underside of her abdomen at the first sign of danger. Even if the Mother dies
these babies are well protected, as are any eggs that have not as yet hatched. This
is a situation that definitely needs the use of an insecticide.
24
Outdoors
t is a futile exercise to try to control insects and pests inside a greenhouse without
I what surrounds it. It is usually these outdoor areas that harbor
giving attention to
the pests that infest our plants. Lots of weeds close to the greenhouse could
initial
mean scores of grasshoppers and crickets mowing down your plants. Clean out
the weeds and either haul them away or burn them. Berry vines and Ivy make a
beautiful setting for a greenhouse; they are also famous hangouts for snails and
slugs. I’ve never a slug that wouldn’t leave a bed of Ivy to spend a week
known of
or two in a nice, moist greenhouse full of Hoyas. The destruction they can wreak in
one night is frightful. Clear back all vines to six feet or more from your greenhouse.
Use metaldahide based baits and liquids, and use them often to keep the population
of these ugly beasts to a minimum. If you find a newly chewed leaf, examine the
plant the following evening just after dark. Insects, snails and slugs included, have
a biological affinity or preference for the nutrients from the same plant or species
once they have fed on it, and will stick to the same food source before moving on.
Other pests you may encounter are rodents, usually mice or rats that will
occasionally find their way to our Hoyas. A rat can mow down plants with a lust.
Any large animal, including dogs and cats, can wreak havoc to precious plants. Act
accordingly! Screen off all vents, coolers and other openings so animals do not
become entangled or endangered.
is possible that other insects and diseases may occasionally become a nuisance.
It
In extremely dry conditions (low humidity), red spider mites and thrips can be a real
problem. Spider mites especially, because they do not respond to the usual
pesticides, and need a specific miticide to eradicate them. The chewing mouthparts
of spider mites leave a silvering or silver speckles and a very sick look to all plants
infested with them. If you are unfamiliar with the symptoms affecting your plants, or
need help with finding a particular control method, contact a professional. Most
sales people at your local garden center have been hired for the summer and usually
don’t know anymore about the subject than you do. Your best source of information
would be the agent for the Department of Agriculture of whatever country you
happen to live in. As an alternative, almost every library in the world has illustrated
books that can help you to pin down what your problem is.
Once you start a control program, make sure you continue long enough to
completely solve the problem. It does no good to spray or dip your plants once and
then stop the treatment. There is bound to be bugs that you miss, as well as eggs
that continue to hatch out to start the next generation. A word of WARNING: Be
25
extremely cautious with any insect spray. These are poisonous! If at all possible,
move your plants outdoors, wear protective clothing and gloves... and always use
insecticides at the recommended rates and dilutions as stated on the label.
26
C hapter 6
»»»»»» Plant Names
plants came into the an attempt to communicate and

world without names. In
A ll
to distinguish one plant from another, man has

given each individual plant a
name. In the beginning, these names were in the local languages, and were mostly
descriptive. Buttercup for instance or Skullcap. Many were descriptive of a use,
such as Post Oak. These common names can be misleading, especially to a visitor
from another area with a different language. Even among the English speaking
countries of the world the term "Post Oak" was used (still is) for many different Oak
species. As long as an oak was fairly straight it was considered suitable for posts
and thus called a "Post Oak". In the Philippines, our common Portulaca is called
Vietnam Rose. Now that’s downright confusing!. The usefulness of a "common"
name is most useful only in a local context.
These common names applied to plants can be used in our day to day
communication with others in our own region, and for the most part cause no great
problem. There are no rules or authority to render judgement on our use of them.
We are free to call any blue flower that hangs like a bell a Bluebell. Once we move
out of our immediate locality or region this system becomes very confusing. The
people 30 miles to the West may call the lupine a Bluebell, which also has tiny, blue,
bell shaped flowers.
Considering the vast number of different plants known in the world, estimated at
over 300,000, with more being discovered and described daily, it is no wonder that
a way had to be found so people around the world could generally agree with the
principle by which a name choice was made. Some universal structure or set of
rules that all would be willing to follow. This search resulted in "scientific" names
controlled by the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature.
27
What is the difference between a common name and a scientific name? What
makes one internationally accepted and the other not? According to international
agreement, all scientific names are to be written and presented in Latin. Why Latin,
a dead language seldom used anymore? Since Latin is no longer the official
language of any country, its very use can cross all international boundaries without
any nationalistic discontent. Latin was and still is the perfect apolitical language.
words however have evolved to find
Individual Latin their way into nearly every
western language to a great degree, and in forms most of us do not even recognize.
y trial and error and over much time it was realized by learned men that the
B most workable naming system would be by two and only two parts for
utilizing
the naming of any plant. The first a generic name, the plant "Genus". The second
a specific name which would be applied to an individual kind of plant, the plants
"Species" name. When the medical doctor Carl Linne (Linnaeus) formerly applied
this "Binomial System" in his book "Species Plantarum" in 1753, the system was
confirmed. The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature thus dates from 1
May 1753 and is recognized as the official beginning for "Scientific" plant names.
The value of these "Scientific" names lies in the universal acceptance of this "code".
The code standardizes the use of the binomial system of nomenclature in Latin as
the official, non political, non sectarian language in standard Roman alphabetical
letters. Man being what he is, must still use his own judgement in deciding the
correctness of names and their application. The correctness of which name goes
with which particular plant still requires human judgement. The Code is merely the
framework for these judgments. The International Code is still being fine tuned as
a set of articles and explanations by which plants are to be named. The latest
publication is dated 1988 and was adopted by the 14th International Botanical
Congress held in Berlin Germany in July-August 1987.
28
Chapter 7
What Hoya Species Are Found Where
et’s start in the West and work our way East and south and look at the hoyas
L named and described from each location. Keep in mind that the taxonomy of
species is always is especially true of our genus, since it is only recently
in flux. This
has been made to systematically study these plants. Many
that a concentrated effort
names may be found that are synonymous, many will be lumped together by
taxonomists who interpret species in a broad sense. New species will be discovered
as more intensive collecting continues and lastly.. .some will become extinct in the
future. have designated the country, the species name, followed by the author
I
and the date published. A few of the species listed are no longer considered to be
in the Hoya genus.
Sri Lanka (Ceylon)
alexicaca Moon 1824
hirsuta Moon 1824
lacuna Wight 1834
ovalifolia Wight 1834
reticulata Moon 1894
veridiflora Brown 1909
wightiana Thwaites 1864
29
India & Burma
acuminata Bentham ex Hooker f. 1 883
acuta Haworth 1821
aldrichii Hemsley 1890
angustifolia Lindley
arnottiana Wight 1834
bella Hooker 1848
bhutanica Gierson & Long 1979
brunoniana Wight 1834
burmanica Rolfe 1920
collettii Schlechter 1913
crassifolia Haworth 1837
edenii King ex Hooker 1 883
esculenta T siang 1 936
fusca Wallich 1831
globulosa Hooker 1882
gonoloboides Regel 1883
griffithii Hooker f. 1883
griffithiana Decaisne 1883
gymnanthera Wight 1834
hookeriana Wight 1834
iconum Santapua 1956
kanyakumariana Henry & Swam. 1 978
lanceolata Wallich ex D. Don 1 825
linearis Wallich 1834
lobbii Hooker f. 1 883
lacuna Wight 1837
longifolia Wallich 1834
30
manipurensis Deb 1955
micrantha Hooker f. 1883
nummmularia Decne. ex Hooker 1883
obcordata Hooker f. 1883
obreniformis King 1910
oblanceolata Hooker f. 1883
ovalifolia Wight & Arnott 1834
pallida Dalz & Gibs 1861
pallida Lindley 1826
parasitica Wallich 1830
parasitica (acuta) Haworth 1821
patviflora Wight 1834
pauciflora Wight 1848
pendula Wight & Arn 1834
planiflora Wallich ex Hooker f. 1861
polyneura Hooker f. 1883
retusa Dalz 1883
serpens Hooker f. 1883
shephardii Short ex Hooker 1861
suaveolens (Hort) 1856
teretifolia Griffith ex Hooker 1883
thompsonii Hooker f. 1883
vaccinioides Hooker 1853
verticillata G. Don 1837
viridifolia R. Brown 1809
viridifolia Griffith 1835
volubiiis Griffith 1835
wallichiana Decaisne 1844
wightii Hooker f. 1883
31
Thailand, Malaya, Sumatra
acuta Haworth 1821
blumeana Schlechter 1913
brooksii Ridley 1925
campanulata Blume 1826
caudata Hooker f. 1883
citrina Ridley 1922
coriacea Blume 1850
coronaria Blume 1825
crassifolia Ridley 1912
curtisii King & Gamble 1913
cystiantha Schlechter 1913
diversifolia Blume 1826
endauensis Kiew 1988
elliptica Hooker f. 1883
engleriana Hosseus 1904
esculenta Tsiang 1936
erythrina Rintz 1978
erythrostemma Kerr 1939
excavata T eijsmann & Binn. 1863
finlaysonii Wight 1834
flagellata Kerr 1940
forbesii King & Gamble 1906
globiflora Ridley 1915
graveolens Kerr 1939
imperialis Lindley 1846
kerrii Craib 1911
lacunosa Blume 1826
32
lanceolata LindSey 1826
lasiantha Korthals ex Blume 1848
latifolia G. Don 1838
macrophylla Blume 1826
macrophylla Wight 1840
micrantha Hooker f. 1883
maingayi Hooker 1883
mitrata Kerr 1940
multiflora Blume 1823
obtusifolia Wight 1834
occlusa Ridley 1912
oreogena Kerr 1939
ovalifolia Wallich
parasitica Wallich 1 830
pachydada Kerr 1939
padangensis Schlechter 1916
parviflora Wight 1834
parvifolia Schlechter 1908
perakensis Ridley 1910
plicata King & Gamble 1908
praetorii Miquel 1856
purpurascens T eijsmann & Binn. 1863
pusilla Rintz 1978
reticulata Moon 1824
revoluta Wight 1883
ridleyi King & Gamble 1908
rhodosteie Ridley 1923
rufolanata Ridley 1923
sarcophylla Ridley 1917
33
scortechinii King & Gamble 1908
siamica Craib 1911
speciosa Decaisne 1844
splendens Maingay 1837
subquintuplinervis Miquel 1869
sussuela (Roxb.) Merrill 1917
teysmanniana Miquel 1856
treubiana Schlechter 1908
uncinata Teijsmann 1863
variifolia Ridley 1926
wrayi King & Gamble 1908
Amboina, Timor, Nicobar
alba Kostel. 1834
amboinensis Warburg 1907
ariadna Decaisne 1844
corona ariadnes Blume 1863
laurifolia Decaisne 1834
lutea Decaisne 1844
lutea Kostel. 1834
nicobarica R. Brown 1830
speciosa Decaisne 1844
sussuela (Roxb.)Merrill 1917
rumphii Blume 1828
34
China, Taiwan, Hainnan, Okinawa, Japan
angustifolia Traill 1830
carnosa R. Brown 1810
cavalerieri Leveille 1914
chinensis Traill 1830
cordata Li & Huang 1985
dasyantha Tsiang 1936
esquirolii Leveille 1912
formosana Yamazaki 1968
fungi Merrill 1934
hainanensis Merrill 1923
kwangsiensis Tsiang & Li 1974
lancilimba Merrill 1932
lantsangensis T siang 1974
lasiogynostegia Li 1984
liangii Tsiang 1936
lipoensis Li & Xu 1985
lyi Leveille 1907
mengtzeensis Tsiang & Li 1974
motoskei Teijsmann & Binnend. 1852
nervosa Tsiang & Li 1974
obscurinervia Merrill 1923
pallida Lindley 1844
pa ndu rata Tsiang 1939
picta Siebold 1853
pottsii T raill 1830
radicalis Tsiang & Li 1974
35
revolubilis Tsiang 1974
rotundifolia Siebold 1841
salweenica Tsiang & Li 1974
silvatica Tsiang & Li 1974
tsoi merrill 1934
tsiangiana Li 1984
trinervis Traill 1824
variegata Siebold ex Morren 1846
variegata De Vriese 1846
yuennanensis Hand-Mass. 1936
Laos, Vietnam, Siam, Cambodia
balansae Costantin 1912
bonii Costantin 1912
cochinchinensis Roem. & Schlltz. 1817
costantinii Li 1984
engleriana Hosseus 1907
erythrostemma Kerr 1939
flagelata Kerr 1940
globosa Lecomte 1912
graveolens Kerr 1939
kerrii Craib 1911
membranifolia Costantin 1912
minima Costantin 1912
mitrata Kerr 1940
nummularioides Costantin 1912
obcordata Teijsmann & Binn. 1866
oblongacutifolia Costantin 1912
36
oreogena Kerr 1939
pachydada Kerr 1 939
parasitica Wallich 1 830
pseudolanceolata Costantin 1912
pseudovarifolia Costantin 1912
pubens Costantin 1912
reticulata Costantin 1912
rigida Kerr 1 939
siamica Craib 1911
vilosa Costantin 1912
Philippines
alagensis Kioppenburg 1990
angustifolia Elmer 1938
angustisepala Burton 1987
benguetensis Schlechter 1906
bilobata Schlechter 1906
bordenii Schlechter 1904
bulusanensis Elmer 1938
burtoniae Kioppenburg 1990
camphorifolia Warburg 1904
cagayanensis Burton 1987
cardiophylla Merrill 1920
cembra Kioppenburg 1990
ciliata Elmer 1938
ciliata ex Burton 1988
crassicaulis Elmer 1938
cumingiana Decaisne 1844
37
darwinii Loher 1910
edanoi Burton 1991
el-nidicus Kloppenburg 1991
fischeriana Warburg 1904
golamcoiana Kloppenburg 1991
gracilis Schlechter 1908
halconensis Kloppenburg 1990
heuschkeliana Kloppenburg 1989
imbricata Decaisne 1844
incrassata Warburg 1904
kentiana Burton 1991
leytensis Elmer 1938
leytensis Elmer ex Burton 1991
lindleyana F. Vill. 1880
loherii Kloppenburg 1991
longipes Schlechter ex Elmer 1938
luzonica Schlechter 1904
madulidii Kloppenburg 1990
mcgregorii Schlechter 1906
meliflua Blanco ex Merrill 1837
merrillii Schlechter 1904
mindanensis Elmer 1938
mindorensis Schlechter 1906
obscura Elmer 1938
obscura Elmer ex Merrill ex Burton 1986
odorata Schlechter 1906
orientalis Li 1984
palawanica Kloppenburg 1990
38
panchoi Kloppenburg 1991
paziae Kloppenburg 1990
pentaphlebia Merrill 1918
philippinensis Li 1984
pseudomaxima Koorders 1919
pubicalyx Merrill 1918
pubifera Elmer 1938
pulgarensis Elmer 1938
quinquinervia Warburg 1904
reflexa Benth & Hooker f. 1880
reticulata Merrill 1920
rizaliana Kloppenburg 1991
rotundisepala Elmer 1938
ruscifolia Decaisne 1844
schallertiae Burton 1987
tsangii Burton 1991
Borneo
aeschynanthoides Schlechter 1908
elmerii Merrill 1929
glabra Schlechter 1908
meredithii Green 1989
phylura Schwartz 1931
39
sussuela (Roxb.) Merrill 1917
vacciniiflora Schwartz 1931
Java
alba Kosteletsky 1917
albiflora Zipp. ex Blume 1848
amoena Brink 1950
browniana Koorders 1911
cinnamomifolia Hooker 1848
clandestina Blume 1848
coccinea Hort. ex Lem. 1848
coriacea Blume 1826
coriacea Zollinger & Miquell 1856
densifolia Turcz. 1848
elegans Kosteletsky 1834
fraterna Blume 1849
grandiflora Blume ex Decaisne 1844
hasseltii Miquel 1856
icrassipes T urcz. 1848
javanica Boerl. 1899
kuhlii Koorders 1912
lacunosa Blume 1826
laurifolia Decaisne 1838
laurifolia Miquell 1863
laurifoliopsis Hochtreutner 1936
leembruggeniana Koorders 1911
lindaueana Koorders 1911
40
longifolia Miquel 1856
macrophylla Biume 1848
magniflora Li 1 984
multiflora Biume 1 826
opposita G. Don 1837
orbiculata Waliich 1 834
ottolanderi Koorders 1911
picta Miquel 1856
polystachya Biume 1 849
pubera Biume 1826
purpureofusca Hooker 1 849
recurvifolia Zipp. ex Biume 1 849
rumphii Biume 1826
subquaterna Miquel 1 856
tenggerensis Brink f. 1 950
tiapeansis Hocheutiner 1938
treubiana Schlechter 1908
tjadasmalangensis Brink f. 1 950
tjampeaensis Hocheutiner 1936
uncinata T eijsmann & Binn. 1 863
velutina Wight 1 834
vitellina Biume 1849
vitellinoides Brink f. 1950
zollingeriana Mique! 1856
Celebes, Malacca (Moluccas)
banoaensis Schltr. 1908
buruenensis Miquel 1869
41
caudata Hooker f. 1883
celebica Handl. 1856
ciliata Teijsmann & Binn. 1866
rumphii Blume 1826
celebica Handl. 1856
collyrioides Teijsmann & Binn. 1866
dolichosparte Schlechter 1916
elliptica Hooker f. 1883
excavata Teijsmann & Binn. 1862
gracilis Schlechter 1908
incurvula Schlechter 1916
maingayi Hooker f. 1883
maxima Teijsmann 1863
maxima (Karst) Warburg 1907
minahassae Schlechter 1916
obovata Decaisne 1844
opposita G. Don. 1837
parasitica Wallich 1830
retusa Warburg 1907
rumphii Blume 1826
sussuela (Rox) Merrill 1917
tsiangiana Li 1984
velutina Griffith 1854
42
New Guinea
ai bill ora Zipp. ex Biunrte 1852
anulata Schlechter 1905
apiculata Scheff. 1876
apoda S, Moore 1916
archboldiana C. Norman 1937
biliardieri Decaisne 1844
calycina Schlechter 1913
chloroieuca Schlechter 1913
chunii Li 1984
coliina Schlechter 1913
coronaria van papuana 1898
dictyoneura Schumann 1905
dimorpha Bailey 1898
dischorensis Schlechter 1913
eitapensis Schlechter 1913
epedunculata Schlechter 1913
exiiis Schlechter 1913
flavescens Schlechter 1913
gigas Schlechter 1913
giobulifera Blume 1849
gracilipes Schlechter 1905
halophila Schlechter 1913
hellwigiana (heilwigii) Warburg 1907
hoiirungii Warburg 1907
hypolasia Schlechter 1913
ischnopus Schlechter 1913
kenejiana Schlechter 1913
43
klossii S. Moore 1916
lactea S. Moore 1914
lamchytonianae Schumann 1898
lamingtoniae Bailey 1898
lanceolaria S. Moore 1916
lauterbachii Schumann 1896
leucantha S. Moore 1916
leucorhoda Schlechter 1913
littoralis Schlechter 1905
marginata Schlechter 1905
megalaster Warburg 1907
microphylla Schlechter 1913
microstemma Schlechter 1913
montana Schlechter 1913
mucronulata Warb 1907
neoguineensis Engler 1886
oleoides Schlechter 1913
oligantha Schlechter 1913
oreostemma Schlechter 1913
oxycoccoides S. Moore 1916
pachyphylla Schumann & Lauter. 1901
pachypus S. Moore 1914
papillantha Schumann 1898
papuana Schlechter 1913
patella Schlechter 1913
pedunculata Schlechter 1913
peekelii Markgraf 1927
piestolepis Schlechter 1913
poolei White & Francis 1927
44
3
pruinosa Miquel 1856
pseudolittoralis Norman 1937
pulchella Schlechter 1913
purpurea Blume 1848
pusilliflora S. Moore 1916
reticuiata Schlechter ex Engler 1 91
rhodostemma Schlechter 1913
rosea Schumann 1905
rubida Schlechter 1905
schlechteriana S. Moore 1916
sogeriensis S. Moore 1913
solaniflora Schlechter 1913
sororia Schumann 1905
stenophylla Schlechter 1913
subcalva Burkill 1901
subglabra Schlechter 1913
torricellensis Schlechter 1913
trigonolobus Schlechter 1905
venusta Schlechter 1913
wariana Schlechter 1913
Australia
alata Hill 1988
aldrichii Hemsley 1890
australis R. Brown ex Trail 1830
barbata Spreng 1825
barracki Horne ex Backer 1 883
flexuosa Spreng. 1 820
grandiflora Spreng. 1820
45
keysii Bailey 1884
lauterbachii Schumann 1896
littoralis Schlechter 1905
macgillivrayi Bailey 1914
nicholsoniae Muller 1866
oligotricha Hill 1986
paniculata Spreng. 1820
poolei White & Francis 1927
pseudolitoralis Norman 1937
rupicola Hill 1988
sanae Bailey 1897
Ponapae
schneei Schlechter 1921
Truck
trukensis Hosokawa 1937
Solomon Islands
affinis Hemsley 1892
australis (island type) 1 830
bicarinata A. Gray 1862
cominsii Hemsley 1890
dodecatheiflora Fosburg 1 940
guppyi Oliver 1892
inconspicua Hemsley 1 894
marginata Schlechter 1907
naumanii Schlechter 1908
46
Vanuatu (New Hebrides)
australis (island type) 1830
neoebudica Guillaumin 1937
New Caledonia
limoniaca S. Moore 1921
neocaledonica Schlechter 1906
Fiji
barracki Home ex Baker 1862
diptera Seemann 1861
intermedia A.C. Smith 1942
megalantha T urrill 1915
pilosa Seemann 1861
vitiensis T urrill 1915
Samoa
attenuate Christophersen 1935
australis (island type) 1830
betchei Schlechter 1913
chlorantha Reichinger 1908
crassior Hochtreutuner 1936
filiformis Reichinger 1908
pubescens Reinecke 1893
pycnophyila Reichinger 1908
47
samoensis Seemann 1866
upoluensis Reinecke 1893
Tonga
Miscellaneous Names
africana Decaisne 1844
albens Miller ex Steud 1826
coriacea Zollinger & Miquel 1856
crocea T uinbouw 1 853
dalrympliana F. Mull.
esculenta Tsiang 1936
fuscomarginata N.E. Brown 1910
gonoloboides Regel (India ?) 1844
paxtonii Nichols 1852
picta (Hort) 1853
recurvifolia Zipp. ex Blume
sikkimensis (Hort.)
suaveolens (Hort.)
trinervia (Hort.) Mach, ex Regal 1884
variegata De Vriese
ow that you have seen the list of species, keep in mind that we are still learning
N about hoyas, hoya habitats, and hoya species. Many on this list may be
synonymous with others. Many may have extended ranges or may be indigenous
to an area and not listed. Last there are undoubtedly species yet to be found and
described and some are likely to be extinct, or on the verge of extinction. At present
we have not collected H. trukensis from the island complex of Truk in the Central
Pacific Islands South/ South East of Guam. It is possibly extinct. A hoya or closely
related species, H. rufolanata, a herbarium sheet of which exists in the Bogor
herbarium in Java has not been recollected. The stream and bordering jungle areas
of the Sungai Sipur (River), in central West Malaya, Perak area, where this species
was originally collected has been dredged for the recovery of Tin. All vegetation has
been destroyed and all that remains are the continuous mounds of white sediment,
it is unlikely that the species survived. It is as if a huge gopher had tunneled up the
Sungai river.
49
.
Chapter 8
»»»»»» Questions About Hoyas ««««««
What was the first Hoya ever Who are some of the botanists or
collected, and in what year? collectors that published all of these
Hoyas?
The year collected is not certain, but Hoya
carnosa R. Brown was first published under It’s impossible toname them all, but some
the name Asdepias carnosa Linn. f. in 1 781 of the familiar names connected with Hoyas
Robert Brown renamed this plant Hoya listed here by date of birth, and date of death
carnosa in honor of Thomas Hoy, thereby when known are:
establishing a new genus, and published it as
Hoya carnosa R. Brown in 1810. There is Bentham, George (1800-1884)
strong evidence that the species we know as
H. motoskei was that original plant. Binnendijk, Simon (1821-1883)
What do the names following the Blanco, Francisco Manuel (1788-1845)

speciesname mean, such as H.
angustifolia Elmer? Blume, Carl Ludwig, Von (1796-1862)
The name following the species name is the Brown, Robert R. (1773-1858)
last name of the person publishing that
particular species, and becomes part of the Costantin, Julien Noel (1857-1936)
species name. It is also a method for keeping
this plant apart from others with the same Craib, William Grant (1882-1933)
name such as H. angustifolia Trail which is a
totally different species. It would be good to Decaisne, Joseph (1807-1882)
add at this point; that the first publishing of a
species name... along with the name of the DeVriese, Willem Hendrik (1806-1862)
author is the only plant allowed to carry this
name, and any subsequent duplications of Don, David (1799-1841)
that particular species name must have
another name selected. Don, George (1798-1856)
51
Elmer, Adolph Daniel Edward (1870-1942) Why don’t my Hoyas bloom?
Gamble, James Sykes (1847-1925) That question crops up in almost every

conversation that has ever been held
Haworlh, Adrian Hardy (1768-1833) concerning Hoyas. You can hear every
conceivable answer, most of them wrong.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton (1817-1911) The truth is, that if a Hoya is mature but
hasn’t bloomed, it is usually because isn’t
it
Hooker, William Jackson (1785-1865) getting enough light.
Hosseus, Carl Curt (1878-1950)

How old do Hoyas have to be before
they bloom?
Korthals, Pieter Willem (1807-1892)
There are too many Hoya species involved

Kostelelzky, Vincent Franz (1801-1887)
to give a patanswer to that question. Many
Hoyas will bloom in their first year of growth,
Leveille, Augustin Abel Hector (1863-1918)
some will take two years, others may need
three or more years before they are mature
Lindley, John (1799-1865)
enough to bloom. If conditions aren’t
right... mature or not, they may never bloom
Loher, August ,
no dates given other than that
until those conditions are corrected.
he was publishing species in the year 1910.
Merrill, Elmer Drew (1876-1956)

What can I do to correct my growing
methods in order to get flowers?
Miquel, Friedrich Anton
Wilhelm (1811-1871) For the majority of Hoyas, the magic wand
that brings on flowers extremely bright but
is
Moon, Alexander, no birthdate indirect light.. .no direct sun. If possible the
(died) (1925) humidity of your growing area should be kept
above 40 percent, 60 percent would be even
Regel, Edward August (1815-1892) better but hard to maintain in a home. Keep a
spray bottle handy and mist your plants often.
Ridley, Henry Nicholas (1855-1956) Another hint that may help to bring on blooms
is to givethem a real jolt with a feeding or two
Roxburgh, William (1751-1815) of a high phosphorous fertilizer. These
fertilizers are usually labeled as Bloom
Schlechter, Friedrich Richard Boosters.

Rudolph (1872-1925)
Which Hoyas will bloom better in the
Siebold, Philipp Franz Von (1796-1866) shade?
Wallich, Nathaniel also known Many Hoyaswill "grow" in the shade.. .most
as Nathan Wolff (1786-1854) willnever bloom under those conditions.
Hoya lacunosa seems to prefer filtered light
Wight, Robert (1796-1872) for blooms, but certainly not deep shade on a
year round basis.
Zippelius, Alexander (1797-1828)
Do Hoyas bloom just in the summer?

Zollinger, Heinrich (1818-1859)
Some Hoyas bloom in the spring and

summer, others bloom off and on all year
52
long.There are a few Hoya species that is no way you can skillfully remove a plant in
bloom only in late fall or winter. one piece.
Is there a "Magic" formula potting Actually the best way to contain a climbing,
mix that is better than any other for
twining plant is to wrap the branches around
Hoy as? the plant itself as it grows. Drastic pruning
may be called for occasionally if the plant
grows completely out of bounds.
Hoyas have a real advantage in that they
adapt so readily to many different potting
mediums that other plants would find Are clay pots better for planting
unacceptable. Most of the pre-packaged all Hoyas in than plastic pots?
purpose houseplant mixes work great right

out of the sack, or you may have to lighten Whether a Hoya is planted in day or plastic
some of them with added perlite (sponge is a matter of personal preference. They all
rock). The main thing is to insure fast have their own advantages and
drainage so they don’t remain wet and soggy. disadvantages. Plastic has been the
They must also be light enough so they don’t preferred container for ail types of plants in
become hard and compacted. Many Hoya the past twenty years. The benefits to plastic
growers use a half and half mix of sphagnum are that they are light weight, relatively
peat moss and perlite with some added inexpensive, easy to clean for re-use and
dolomite lime, or a calcium source to they hold moisture longer than day, which is
neutralize the acid in the peat moss. Watch a real advantage if the new soilless mixes are
your plants! They will usually let you know if used. There are, however, some growers
they are unhappy. who won’t plant in anything but clay. Clay
has the advantage of being heavy enough to
Why is it that some cuttings will root hold large growing plants without tipping over.
but then just sit and do nothing, while They dry out fairly fast which is important if
heavy, soil based mixes are used. Unlike
cuttings from the same plant, planted
plastic, they are porous so plant roots stay
at the same time and under the same
cooler in summer.
conditions will grow vigorously?
What color are Hoya flowers?

That is a mystery! Growth hormones within
the cuttings, or lack of them is probably the
Every color has been verified in Hoya
cause. you have cuttings growing of the
If
flowers except blue and black. H. ciliata that
same plant, why not just dump those that
don't grow. If it’s an expensive cutting or one
is called the "black Hoya", is actually an
of a kind, and you have the patience to wait it
extremely dark purple. A few
years ago, an
amateur collector daimed to have found a
out, they will eventually put out new growth.
"true blue" Hoya. ..this Hoya turned out to be
"mauve" which is a light pinkish purple.
What is the best way to train a
straggly looking Hoya to a nice
Some of my Hoyas have beautiful
compact shape?
glossy foliage while others have a
dull, dusty appearance. Why is this?
Wire or plastic hoops with built in pot
holders can be purchased, as well as wire,
T rying to diagnose what ails a plant without
cedar, redwood and wicker trellises. These
seeing the plant and the conditions under
make beautiful displays when Hoyas are
which it is grown is impossible. Any number
allowed to twine around the hoops or wind in
of things can cause a plant to look dull and
and out of the trellises. The major
disadvantage to these devices, is in trying to
dusty, including which species it is. Some
Hoya species don’t have glossy foliage, but
repot a plant that has spent several years
they look healthy. Make out a checklist and
entangling themselves in one of them. There
write down these questions: Have these
53
plants ever had glossy foliage? Have they distorted. The fastest remedy for a plant in
ever been allowed to dry out to a point of this condition is a foliar feeding with 2
wilting? Have they been kept so wet that the tablespoons of fish emulsion mixed in a gallon
roots may have started rotting? Is your of very warm, but not hot water. Mist the
humidity extremely low? Are these plants entire plant very lightly with this solution. You
sitting in a draft of cold air? Are they where want just a frost of mist on the leaves. Do
hot air from a furnace fan can blow directly on every 3 or 4 days for a couple of weeks.
this
them? Have they been examined for an You will see a definite improvement in a very
insect infestation? Answer all of these short time.
questions, and you can probably come up
with an answer. It is sufficient to say briefly What is meant by the expression
that anything that affects a plant’s root system
foliar feeding?
will also affect the appearance of the foliage.
Low humidity is a slow agonizing death for
Foliar feeding is a method of getting
most tropical plants, and normally shows up
nutrients into a plant through the foliage
first in the appearance of the foliage. Low
instead of the roots. In nature, epiphytes get
humidity also favors a spider mite attack
a large portion of their nutrients through their
which can cause foliage to look dull and dusty.
leaves when rain and mist washes debris
such as bird droppings, dead leaves etc.
What do Hoyas
kind of plant food down from higher up in the tree tops. We try
need for growth and bloom? to duplicate nature by using devices that
apply needed nutrients as a very fine mist.
Let’s rephrase that question to read. ..What
chemical elements can we provide that will Are there any Hoyas that have a
help our Hoyas (or any other plant) to make
natural immunity to pests such as
its own food?
mealybugs and aphids?
Without getting too technical, it’s only
necessary to say that all "green growing
Nature has devised some clever ways for
different plants to ward off attacks by insects,
things" manufacture their own food from
and also from larger animals. This is usually
sunlight and water. All we can do as their
accomplished through chemical means (the
human overseers is to insure that they have
plant sap is poisonous or contains a chemical
access to the essential chemical elements
that stings). Some plants have developed
that their natural habitats normally provide for
millions of tiny thorns, others have developed
them. The most important supplemental
huge, wicked looking, and very dangerous
elements are nitrogen, phosphorus and
barbs. Hoyas don’t have any of these
potassium. These three elements are vital
obvious weapons, unless it’s chemical. There
components of a healthy plant. Without all of
are some Hoyas that never seem to be
them, in proper balance, a plant can’t repair
bothered with mealybugs. H. micrantha is
itself or build new cells. Under most
one that don’t recall ever seeing with
I
circumstances, a balanced "plant food" such

mealybugs... or aphids. H. obscura and H.
as a 20-20-20 formula is ideal.
plicata are two that seldom have aphids, but
will occasionally have a few mealybugs. This
What are the symptoms of a Hoya might be a concept that no one has ever
that is deficient in nitrogen? thought to look into. Wouldn’t it be great if we
could make up a brew of stewed, immune
The lower or older leaves will usually turn Hoya leaves to spray on our other Hoyas!
yellow or pale, sickly looking green, dry and
drop off; some may become brownish/orange.
What causes Hoya buds to dry up
The new growth will rob the older leaves of
and drop off without opening, or fall
any chlorophyll that is retained, but there is
off within a few hours after opening?
not enough to support this new growth so it
remains stunted, pale and often curled and
54
4
semi-miniatures are even happier under

Usually Hoyas that dry up and drop their than they are in natural light.
artificial light
buds have been allowed to become too dry
between waterings. Hoyas will also drop their If I grow Hoyas garden with
in a light
buds the potting mixture is constantly kept
if
fluorescent light, how many hours a
too wet. However they don’t dry up in this
day do I need to keep the lights on?
case but become yellow and spongy, or
brown and mushy. Your buds that open but
fall off soon after, are probably placed where
An absolute minimum for growth is 12 to 14
hours per day. If you’re pushing for bloom, 1
a cool draft is hitting them (maybe from a fan).
to 1 6 hours is even better.
Can you tell me which Hoyas grow

wild in Hawaii?
What size pot is best to plant Hoyas
in?
There are no Hoya species known to have

That would depend entirely on how big the
evolved naturally in Hawaii. The Hoyas that
plant is that you’re planning to pot. If you are
grow there now, have been lovingly planted
planting rooted cuttings, a 4" pot is usually
by the "wild" but human hands of a couple of
Hoya collectors that live there.
sufficient for up to a year, or longer if it’s a
small growing plant. Pot sizes for plants that
are being potted up to a larger size, should be
What is way to remove hard
the best at least 1 " but no larger than 2" larger than
water spots from Hoya leaves? the root ball of your plant.
One teaspoon of vinegar (white or red) What’s the story on pruning

mixed in a pint of warm water will remove
Hoyas. ..Should we or shouldn’t we?
most water spots. Dip a soft cloth in this
solution and rub each leaf gently in a circular
An "old wives tale" that makes the rounds
motion, rinse with clear water and dry with
quite often, says "you should never prune
another soft cloth. If you want a real shine to
Hoyas or you will cut off the bloom spurs".
your leaves, try mixing one teaspoon of real
That is partly true! You will cut off bloom
mayonnaise (not salad dressing) with three
spurs, however, the other part of the story
tablespoons of warm water. Apply to your
you prune a plant, you will force many
is. ..If
leaves with a cottonball or soft cloth, then
new branches, and these new branches are
wipe dry. This formula does not dog the
usually loaded with new bloom spurs. Go
pores of your leaves like commercial leaf
ahead and prune your plants, and be
shine products, and your leaves will
prepared for a bushier, prettier plant with lots
absolutely glisten.
of flowers.
Will Hoyas grow from a single leaf?

When is the best time of the year to
repot Hoyas?
There are those who say they will. ..and
those who say they won’t. If all you had was
one leaf of the only plant of its kind left in the Just as a plant is getting ready to go into a
period of active growth is the ideal time to
world, would probably be at least worth the
it
repot. There may be times that for one

effort to "try" to get a plant to grow from that
reason or another you may have to consider
leaf.
repotting at some other time. This normally
doesn’t affect Hoyas one way or another
Will Hoyas bloom under fluorescent They usually come through it with flying colors.
light?
Is there any advantage to mixing

Absolutely! And some bloom better than
"birth control pills" into potting mix?
others. Most of the little miniatures and
55
middle number, which is always the
Several years ago there was a flurry of phosphorus analysis.
excitement about the wonderful results that
could be had by using birth control pills in all A mine says Hoyas are in
friend of
kinds of plants. After a short while, no more the African Violet family, say they I
was heard about birth control pills for plants.

are in the Orchid family. Who is right?
I have had a plant of H. serpens for Sorry, neither one of you are! Hoyas are in
several years. It struggles to stay the Asdepiadaceae or Milk Weed family,
alive and has never bloomed. Should which contains among other genera
I give up the idea of growing it? Ceropegias, Stephanotis, Stapelia and the
beautiful Asclepias which the tribe or plant
Hoya serpens is a beautiful little miniature family was named after.
species, and they are happy, they grow and

if
bloom as well, if not better than many other Are there places where Hoyas can
Hoyas. Remember that H. serpens is a grow outside all year?
miniature creeper with very tiny roots. It
doesn’t deep pots, or soil based mixes,

like
Certainly, they grow outside in their native
so the preferred method for growing is in a habitat! I’m sure you must be referring to
shallow bed of sphagnum peat moss. This
specific areas in the United States such as
peat moss can be packed in a shallow tray,
Florida, Southern California, Hawaii, etc.
stapled to a piece of cork bark or a small
There are quite a few species that can grow
log.. .any number of ways. Let your
outside all year long in some areas of
imagination run wild. You will probably have
Southern California and Florida, and even
more success with this method by rooting
more species that can live outdoors in Hawaii.
some new cuttings in sphagnum peat or There are times that the temperature can and
coarse vermiculite. You may use cuttings does drop to a dangerous level both in Florida
taken from your old plant, but don’t use the and Southern California. If the temperature
plant itself. If the plant has been struggling
remains low for more than just a very short
for its very life as you said, there is probably
time. ..plants could be lost, then more cuttings
very few roots left anyway. Take as many
would be purchased from those of us who
cuttings as you can, then throw the old plant
grow our plants in nice warm green houses.
away. The type of light these creepers
receive on the forest floor is rather dim light
that through the foliage of the taller
filters
I’ve heard that I should give my
underbrush. They probably spend several Hoyas a bath. Is this really
hours each day in dense shade, so they necessary?

normally do better in cultivation than they do
in the wild, because they receive more light. There are many interpretations of what "a
Give them lots of light in the winter, then bath" means. There are those who have the
move them to an area that gets very early idea that a plant needs to be lathered up with
morning sun with bright shade the rest of the soap suds, rinsed and dried before they
day for the summer months. consider a plant to be clean. Although this
would certainly help to kill insects, wash away
Some books say use phosphorus to insect eggs and remove the sticky honeydew
that accumulates on the leaves from aphids,
for flower production, others say
mealybugs and scale. ..it’s not the only way to
potassium. ..which is correct?
bathe a plant. A forceful spray with plain
warm water from a hose can be almost as
Actually both of these elements help to
effective. If you live in an apartment where
promote buds and flower production, however
you wouldn’t have access to an area suitable
all the fertilizer products on the market that
for using a hose, a bathtub is a perfect place
claim to be "blossom boosters" have a higher
for a bath or shower for your plants. Is a bath
really necessary?. ..your plants probably won’t
56
die without one, but they are much happier if leaves. These are the three main chemical
they can have an occasional bath. elements that your plants need to help them
manufacture their own food. When plants are
I have an H. nicholsoniae whose severely deficient in these three components
leaves have turned a dark brownish it is safe to assume that all the other needed
red. Could this be from a phosphorus chemical elements are deficient also. If you
have any halfway healthy looking growth still
deficiency?
on these plants, would recommend that you
I
take some cuttings from the healthy parts and

I doubt it! Many of the H. nicholsoniae type
start some new plants. Then start a regular
plants as well as some other species in the feeding program for your old plants, using a
Hoya genus have leaves that turn glossy
balanced fertilizer such as Peters 20-20-20
brownish red or mahogany colored in bright
formula, or any other good brand that has all
light. The color changes that are caused by
the required trace elements included in its
nutrient deficiencies are dull, lifeless looking
ingredients.
colors. They usually start with the older
leaves and slowly progress through the entire
plant. The plant has an overall stunted
What is meant by the expression
appearance, and looks very unwell. "sexual reproduction" in plants?
That phrase refers to the reproduction of

I have ten large Hoya plants that
plants by the same method reproduction
of
have been in 8" baskets for over four
that occurs in animal life... Pollen from the
years. have never used fertilizers
I
male sex organ (the stamen) is transferred to
on them because don’t want them to I
the female sex organ (the pistil) so that
get any bigger. They don’t look very fertilization occurs, leading to the production
healthy anymore, and a friend says of seeds or spores.
they are suffering from a lack of
nutrients. What does that mean, and What is meant by the expression
what are the symptoms of lack of "asexual reproduction" in plants?
nutrients?
The term asexual reproduction refers to the
Your friend is probably right! After four vegetative method of multiplying plants using
years in a pot, most potting mixes would be parts of the same plant, such as by stem or
pretty well depleted of any nutrients that they leaf cuttings, or by planting bulblets,
originally contained. The chemical element rhizomes, or by dividing the plant itself.
that is depleted the fastest in any

gardening.. .indoors or out, is nitrogen. The The botanical names on some of
older leaves turn yellow, or a very sick looking these plants are real tongue twisters.
pale, grayish green, and usually drop off in
Is there a sensible reason behind
huge numbers. Any new growth is pale,
some of these names?
stunted and often curled and distorted. A
phosphorus deficiency shows up first in the
leaf edges, tips and veins of a plant. These
Many botanical names
are descriptive of a
prominent part a plant. Sometimes it’s the
of
areas turn dull red or bronze beginning with
Any new growth is foliage e.g. Hoya carnosa, which means
the older leaves first.
fleshy or of fleshy consistency. Other names
stunted, or stopped entirely. The leaves will
will refer to a description of the flower e.g.
eventually turn a garish blue green, then dull
Hoya pauciflora (few flowered), the flower
purple mottled with brown and yellow. With a
parts e.g. Hoya pubicalyx (pubescent or fuzzy
potassium deficiency the leaf tips and edges
calyx), or maybe even a flower color e.g.
turn tan, bronze or sometimes even dull red,
Hoya purpureofusca (reddish brown flower).
followed by crinkled, burned leaf edges. The
These descriptive names are often very
leaf blades will turn yellow, beginning with the
helpful to taxonomists in identifying a plant.
older leaves. New
growth is stunted with
Much more so than naming them after a
shorter than normal distances between the
57
person or place. The names really aren’t that one way or the other. It apparently has a lot
if they are broken into syllables and
difficult to do with their native habitat. Many Hoyas
pronounced slowly. live where the temperature seldom varies
more than a few degrees between day and

night.. .summer or winter.
What are the tiny little black flies
that fly around potted plants?
The potting mix on some of my
These are probably fungus gnats. They lay Hoyas has a thin layer of what looks
eggs in the potting mix. The eggs hatch out likewet talcum powder. Could this be
almost microscopic worms that feed
into tiny, a fungus growth?
on the peat moss, and often on the roots of
your plants. A pinch of systemic granules It actually sounds more like fertilizer salt
placed in your pots every five weeks or so buildup. Try leaching your potted plants with
and watered in will get rid of them. lots of clear water to wash out the excess
fertilizer.
What is meant by a species being

published? Where do most Hoyas come from
originally?
In order to be a valid, recognized species a
plant must be described in Latin, and this The largest number of Hoya species have
description must be published, or made public been collected in that vast area of the tropical
to a wide or varied audience.. .for instance world known as Indonesia. There are also
through recognized botanical periodicals or numerous Hoyas scattered through many of
bulletins. the South Pacific Islands as well as tropical
and semi tropical areas of India, China and
Do Hoyas go dormant in the winter? Japan.
As with most tropical plants, Hoyas don’t go What are the symptoms of
through a true dormancy. However, when overfertilizing?
temperatures drop accompanied by overcast
skies and dark days with very little light, they The obvious symptom
first is a build-up of
will slow down and show no apparent activity
fertilizer salts that rise to the surface of your
until conditions improve. Plants that are
potting mix in the form of white, crusty looking
grown under artificial lights, and with even powder. pots these salts are visible on
In clay
temperatures continue to grow and even the outside of the pot, and around the inside
bloom through all seasons. rim close to the soil line. If this condition is
not corrected by thorough leaching (rinsing
Most of the tip ends of the new out) of the potting medium, or a complete
growth on my Hoyas dies off. What repotting, the roots will suffer severe chemical
causes this? injury. The leaves your plants will have
of
dry, rusty, crinkled edges from chemical
The three major causes of stem tip burns. ..and the main stem often swells and
burn.. .and that’s what it is!...(1) low splits open near the chemical
soil line due to
humidity.. .(2) overfertilizing... (3) stems injury of the plants plumbing system. This
touching a cold or hot surface. There are usually leads to the death of your plants.
other causes, but check into these first.
Where can I get Hoya seed?

Do Hoyas need a temperature drop
at night? Hoya seed come by. As far
is not easy to
as is known, none Hoya dealers have
of the
Some Hoyas definitely need a temperature seed available. Sometimes there will be
individuals who have a bumper crop of seed
drop to stay happy, others don’t seem to care
58
pods on their plants after a summer outside, referred to here, are actually the transparent
where they can be pollinated by bees, flies, skeletons. ..or mummies, that are left behind
moths or whatever. Your best chance for by the aphids as they outgrow them.
obtaining Hoya seed would be to get
acquainted with other Hoya hobby growers. Is there a positive control for aphids
besides using poison sprays?
What is the best way to plant Hoya
seed? For plants that are especially susceptible to
aphids, a piece or two cut from a dog flea
There are special seed planting mixes collar and on top of the soil will help to
laid
available at most garden centers. Peat moss repel aphids, mealybug and scale. It is
that is packed into nylon net and compressed obviously too expensive to use this method if
into thin pellets that swell to the size of a 2" more than just a few plants are involved. It
pot when moistened are known in America by has also been discovered that any bright
the brand name of Jiffy 7 pellets, and are also yellow object will immediately attract the
excellent for planting seed. The immediate attention of aphids and draw them away from
concern growing plants from seed is to
in your plants. Try smearing a bright yellow
prevent the fungus that causes the damp-off paper or a board painted yellow with
disease which attacks seedlings at the soil petroleum jelly. Place these boards or papers
line. Mix a solution of a wettable powdered close to your plants, and at plant level. ..not
fungicide and use this mixture to dampen above them. The theory is that the aphids will
your seed mix or to activate the Jiffy 7 pellets. be attracted to the yellow color and will get
It is best to water your seed flats slowly from hopelessly stuck in the petroleum jelly.
the bottom to prevent washing out the tiny
seedling before they are firmly rooted. What are the symptoms of
nematodes?
Can I pasteurize my potting soil by
placing it in heavy plastic bags and Nematodes are sneaky, microscopic and
leaving it in the hot sun for several worms that invade the
practically transparent
days? roots and stems Unless we have

of plants.
potted many plantsan unsterilized potting
in
Experimentation shows us that moist soil mix that already has nematodes present, the
tied securely in a plastic bag and placed in infestation usually starts from a potted plant
the hot sun will reach a temperature received from other sources. Unrooted
approximately 50 degrees hotter than the cuttings seldom have nematodes present
surrounding air. Only if you live in an area unless the cuttings were taken from old wood
where the air temperature is at least 135° F. close to the soil line. The guilty culprit that is
(57°C.) can you be fairly certain that the responsible for spreading this disease usually
contents of the plastic bag will reach the displays some symptoms that we don’t
185°F. (85°C) needed for pasteurization. It is

recognize until it’s too late. The danger with
safer to use the oven! nematodes is that they travel in water, and
invade other plants on the same bench by
entering the pot through holes in the bottom
What are the tiny white worms that
or by water that drips from hanging baskets
are usually found on leaves along into pots below. The classic symptoms are
with aphids? stubby, gnarled leafless stems.. .especially in
the center of the plant which displays galls

Aphids go through a gradual change from that resemble large warts. If examined, the
the nymph stage to the adult stage by roots may also be found to have huge knots.
molting, or shedding their skins. As they The plants look very sick but can survive for
grow, the skin does not grow with them, but quite a long time in a very humid atmosphere
instead splits open and the aphids simply such as in a greenhouse. This is possible
walk out of their old skin. Microscopic because even though the roots are totally
examination reveals that the "tiny worms" disabled, they get just enough moisture
59
through any remaining leaves to keep them
barely alive. The remedy for nematodes is to Sometimes when I water the plants
take cuttings from the very tip ends of every in my greenhouse, centipedes will
plant you own, and them far away from
root
come scurrying out of the pots. Do
the contaminated area. Then burn the
they damage plant roots?
infested plants, pots and soil included. Scrub
every square inch of your growing area,
Centipedes are insect predators, and feed
tables and benches especially, with a strong
If you have a dirt or gravel
on beatles, grubs, slugs and snails that
chlorine solution.
normally invade garden plants. Since
floor, pour left over chlorine solution on the
floor and let it soak in.
centipedes don’t usually hang around inside
greenhouses and especially not down inside
pots.. .I’m wondering if the bugs you are
I have had a beautiful H. carnosa
seeing might not be symphilids or millipedes.
variegata for seven years. This past These usually feed on decaying matter such
summer it gradually started turning as fir bark and peat moss, but are not above
solid green. The clerk at the garden eating large chunks out of plant leaves.
center told me was probably using
I
too much high nitrogen fertilizer. I

What is meant by "air layering" a
use a balanced 18-18-18 formula and plant?
always have. Could there be another
reason? To air layer a plant is a method of forming
roots on a part of a plant while it is still
doubt if your balanced fertilizer had

I attached to the mother plant. A wide notch is
much. ..if anything to do with your plant cut into the plant just beneath a leaf node,
reverting to solid green. What usually then a mass of wet peat moss is packed into
happens, is that a variegated plant will and around the cut. A piece of plastic is
eventually put out a solid green branch.. .this securely tied over this dressing to keep the
branch has very dominent genes and moss in place and to help to retain moisture.
contains the original blueprint, or arrangement This method normally results in roots being
of cells that tells this plant that "it will be formed on even the hardest to root plants
green". If this branch is left to grow, will it within four to six weeks. As soon as a good
take on the role of an over ambitious root system is established, the new rooted
supervisor and demand that the entire plant cutting can be severed from the mother plant
"willbe green". To counteract this, cut out and potted up the same way as any other
solid green branches as soon as they appear. cutting.
60
C hapter 9
Hoya Hall of Fame
he following pages of this text are devoted to brief descriptions and a few words
T on care & culture of the various Hoyas whose pictures were selected for a place
in our “Hall of Fame", and consist of 30 species that are generally favored for their
availability, adaptability, easy growing habit, spectacular appearance. ..or in several

cases, because they are exquisite miniatures and perfect for the indoor light garden.
Since rare Hoya species are a fairly recent addition to the world of cultivation, a
large percentage of the Hoyas in our possession remain unidentified, or have been
mistakenly identified. The names, or numbers accompanying the photos in this
publication are those that appeared on the labels at the time of purchase, and are
by no means the final word on identification for these plants. In the past few years,
several research groups have been able to properly identify many of the Hoyas on
these pages. In order to lessen the confusion of placing unfamiliar species names
on these photos, we have chosen in most cases, to retain the more familiar number
system. However, due to the fact that all plant growers have their own method for
inventorying plants by number, you may have obtained many of these plants under
a different name or number.
There a fast growing, non-profit organization based in the United States but with
is
international status, whose members are dedicated to the study and promotion of
these rare and beautiful exotics. An invitation is being extended by the President
of the organization,as well as members of the Board of Directors and all members
in general, to those of you who grow Hoyas now, and anyone who is seriously
considering growing one or more of these Hoya species and would like more
information on plant sources, plant identification or culture to contact: The
International Hoya Association, P.O. Box 5130, Central Point, Oregon 97502.
61
Hoya acuta Haworth
(Pictures #9, 21 & 65)
s you will note the name above is made up

two parts (binomial) followed by
of
A the authors name. The author is the person who originally wrote up the species
and described it in Latin. "Hoya" is the genus name that represents the whole group
of similar plants in the milkweed family, "acuta" is the specific name, the name of a
species in the Hoya genus. mention this now with a description of this first plant to
I
try and alleviate confusion at this point as to why the plants are named as they
appear.
This species is fairly widely distributed and relatively easy to collect in its native
habitats. The a vigorous grower and well adapted for our purposes. It
plant is
readily grows to become a medium sized plant. Because of its wide adaptability in
nature it adapts readily to cultivation. It is easy to grow and blooms readily and
often. To top it all off it is highly fragrant, with scents of peppermint, spearmint and
lemon.
Plants of this species have been around for a long time. has been reported as
It
growing at the gardens in Kew, England in 1918, having been sent there from
Calcutta, India by Doctor Wallich under the name of Hoya parasitica. He stated it
was from the delta of the Ganges River. The foliage on this species is very desirable,
being a very attractive medium glossy green above, a little lighter on the underside.
Although the internodes are rather long, the broad lance shaped leaves give
adequate cover. There is a wide range of flower colors among the various clones
available and also some differences in the leaf sizes. One attractive clone (picture
#9) has a lime green flower color and comes from the island of Penang off the north
west coast of Malaysia. It is easy to spot this species from the roadways climbing
and twining around the trunks and along outstretched branches on trees bordering
the mountain roads. Picture #65 is of the clone with bronze pink tones to the flowers
especially pronounced when they open in cool spring conditions.
The flowers are in waxy and with the

the form of globose (round) clusters, always
petals reflexed. This hoya is easy to start from cuttings, grows rapidly and flowers
at an early stage. If you missed seeing the development of a cluster you will know
it is in bloom from the pleasant fragrance emitted.
62
Hoya arnottiana Wight
(Picture #3)
ere we have an Indian Hoya species from the warmer tropical regions of the
H Himalayan mountains. In these areas it is found growing at an elevation of from
1000’ to 3000’ (305 to 915 m) altitude. It is a strong, vigorous climber, ascending
high into the towering branches of supporting trees, and reaching for additional
sunlight. Here in its lofty perch, is also swept by the moisture laden, cooling,
it
monsoon breezes. It has bold, wide ovate elliptic, medium to light green leaves with
a soft, smooth, hairless surfaces. The veins however can readily be seen.
The globose clusters of flowers are creamy sometimes white. The finely
yellow,
pubescent inner surface of the petals are reflexed, and the pure white central crown
stands out prominently. It gives off a soft pleasant fragrance, is relatively easy to
bloom and in combination with its bold handsome foliage, is worthy of a place in
most collections.
63
Hoya australis R. Brown
(Pictures #1, 52, 85)
ere is an Australian Hoya that has many leaf forms and habitats. It is adapted
H to a very wide range of environmental conditions, yet all the different types,
varieties and subspecies have similar flowers. Because of its highly variable
characteristics it has given the plant taxonomists (Botanists who specialize in the
classification of plants) a lot to discuss and argue over. You can surely find this
species listed by many nurseries that specialize in Hoyas. You will also find
nurseries that carry numerous variations of this species. Among the many forms to
choose from, you can select large, hairless, shiny leafed types; also fuzzy leafed,
broad leafed, and very thick, small leaved types. Some foliage grows fairly flat,
while others are cupped or their tips turn down. You can grow types with deep green
foliage and ones with very light green colors. This whole book could be occupied
with the many distinct types, varieties, and subspecies that can be found within the
Hoya australis complex.
The flowers are always white, with the majority having varying amounts of a
carmine pink stain under the central crown. For the most part the flowers lay out
flat or are slightly cupped.
This species is among and to flower. They tend to bloom in

the easiest to grow
the fall in the northern hemisphere September and November, as it is then
in
becoming spring in Australia. We have many variations to choose from, thanks to

the extensive collecting work done by the Australian collectors. In a crowded
greenhouse you will know this plant is blooming by the scent that will greet you when
you open the door in the morning.
H. australis is not as cold hardy as the carnosa types nor will accept as much
it
watering and humidity as most of the Philippine species. It is, however, not a fussy
grower and I’m sure you will be pleased with this species.
64
Hoya bilobata Schlechter
(Picture #57)
was found and described was the smallest Hoya flower

the time this species
A t it
known from the Philippines. It was described by Dr. Rudolph Schlechter, a

yet
German economic botanist working in German New Guinea in 1906. Many Hoya
specimens were sent to him from the Philippines for study and classification. The
plant was collected at Davao on the large Island of Mindanao. There are a number
of small leaved, small flowered Hoyas from the Philippines that belong to the same
section, Acanthostemma. This section among other things is distinguished by the
two extensions (lobes) that protrude from the sides of each of the five scales that
make up the center of a Hoya flower. The plant shown here is believed to be this
same small species, although plant taxonomists are still studying this rather difficult
section of a most difficult genus, the Hoya.
Our plant with time makes a dense, multi branched, fine stemmed plant. Its
diminutive oval to round and

leaves are covered with small soft hairs (puberulous)
are a rather dull green with light green on the cupped underside. This species would
have to be included among the miniatures. It will climb, but most often the foliage
dangles down in long streamers, and covers the container completely. The flower
clusters are tiny, the entire umbels being only about 1/2 inch across. It is an easy
plant to grow and a frequent summer bloomer, with a mild honey fragrance. As
shown the rose colored petals roll back in small fuzzy balls with a yellow central
crown and conspicuous, deeper red markings.
This wee plant would probably be at home in a rather small pot with good drainage.
It would also do
well on a log or slab wrapped with moss and watered daily. Since
a fairly rapid grower you can take some cuttings
this plant is later on and experiment
with growing them in different situations and conditions.
65
Hoya c a m p h o rifo lia Warburg
(Picture #44)
his graceful, pale green foliaged plant is a native of the Philippine Islands. It
T has small stems that form dangling and vining clumps from branches and limbs
in the tropic forests in this Island nation. The Type species was found by Dr.
Warburg in Central Luzon, the largest island in the Philippines. It grows at a rather
high altitude of 1000’(305 m). This is not high by some standards but relatively high
for this area. The foliage is about the same color on both sides, rather rigid with
acute tips that bend downward. The veins are very noticeable. The petiole that
holds the leaf and often the new stems are a purple shade and adds to the
attractiveness of this plant. It has a rather delicate appearance, a clean attractive
look.
When well grown flowers often, the tiny flowers open in the morning then close
it
toward evening. The next day they may open again, but are not long lasting. Since
they take little nutrient from the plant they seem to bloom more often. They are a
pleasing rose color with red centers, very small and beautiful. Like most Philippine
Hoyas they will take a lot of water providing your mixture is loose and has good
drainage. This species makes a good small to medium sized plant. It is ideal for a
6" (152.4 mm) pot or basket, where the growth habit is a pleasing contrast to the
larger and more vigorous Hoyas. It is ideal for window sill growers and for light
gardens. This species is not at all what would call succulent nor is it thin, but rather
I
somewhat hard textured. An easy plant to grow and flower.
H . ha ophy a
I I
66
Hoya cinnam o m ifo lia Hooker
(Picture #37)
spectacular species from the Island of Java. Its large, olive green leaves,
A palmately veined in silver are very impressive. The new growth exhibits bronze
tones and adds to the interest of this plant species. Mr. Thomas Lobb sent this
species to England from Java in 1847 where it was greatly admired. The plant itself
is very attractive, but its blooms are sensational!
What could be more beautiful than the lime green petals, of these rather large sized
flowers, and huge center crown of deep cranberry red? The globose
set off with a
clusters consist of 25 to 30 flowers each, adding to the thrill when the plant comes
into full bloom. The plant is a moderately vigorous grower, but fairly easy to keep
under control. In high humidity the stems will put out short rootlets along its length
and especially near the nodes, where the leaves are attached. This plant can be
classified as a medium bloomer. It blooms for me in Fresno, California each year
about July. In England they report blooming in July and August. Some growers in
America report heavy blooming in July and August with a few blooms off and on the
rest of the year.
Treat the plant you would Hoya australis. Give it a well drained potting mixture.
like
Keep it damp but above all do not water so often that the mixture becomes sour or
waterlogged, or you will lose the plant.
While on the subject of watering, the idea is to water heavily, then let the potting
soil dry somewhat before watering again. Don’t dabble around. ..Water & Wait! Also
known as the drown and dry method.
67
Hoya cumingiana Decaisne
(Picture #38)
n spite of forest destruction and habitat reduction, this isone species that feel I
I will plant pictured here came to me

survive. The from Professor Juan V. Pancho,
who collected 1981 from Northern Luzon in the Philippines. It was taken from
it in
a road cut through a limestone area, attesting to the fact that this species does not
need a primary forest to survive and propagate. It readily sets seed pods and has
a high percent of viable seed which grow vigorously. In this respect it is somewhat
unusual among Hoya species. This is not to say that there are not other Hoya
species that produce pods, but most are not as prolific in this respect as Hoya
cumingiana is. Its ability to reseed itself even in disturbed areas seems to assure
its permanence as a species.
This species is not a vine as most Hoyas are, but rather has a bushy type growth.
As branches become long they bow over and become pendant unless it finds
its
support from a nearby plant or other surface. As pictured this plant has a lot of
closely formed leaves, close also to the stem. The flower cluster hangs down from
the arching stems and are very waxy and showy with their contrasting colors. Since
this species like many others prefers coral and other limestone areas, it is advisable
to include a source of calcium in the potting mix. Some crushed coral, broken up
limestone, even gypsum board from construction can act as a calcium source.
68
Hoya erythrina Rintz
(Picture #51)
W hy this beautiful Hoya escaped notice in the hill forests of Malaya until Dr. R.L.
Rintz described it in 1978 is a real mystery. It is so outstandingly unusual and
attractive it should not have been easily overlooked. It must be that it is fairly rare
in nature in the forests of Pahang and Selangor (areas similar to U.S. counties,
geographical divisions) where it is found at 1300-3000’ (400-700 m) in altitude. It

is said to be common but not abundant along rivers in the areas.
This plant is very slow to start growth but with time it will become established and
then put on rapid growth. It loves to twine and climb... often with long, at first, leafless
stems. As leaves develop they are usually deep shades of green and bronze,
maturing into rather rigid, undulant (wavy) leaves of iridescent lime green with
deeper green venation. The underside of these leaves is a rich dull maroon to pink.
The foliage is very distinctive and beautiful, often splotched or marked on the surface
with pink and silver markings. You will want to grow this one for the foliage alone!
The pendant flower clusters are formed of convex umbels of buttery yellow flowers
fuzzy on the part of the upper curved surface. This is set off with a slightly lighter
pagoda shaped center. There is a warm undertone to the yellowish petals. The tip
and edges of the petals are turned under giving a squared off shape to the flowers.
This is a plant that most collectors will unique and desirable.

find very attractive,
Itmight be that it will like more light than most Hoyas and probably good humidity,
since it grows along streams in nature.
69
Hoya finlaysonii Wight
(Picture #75)
ach Hoya seems have some distinctive and outstanding characteristic. This
to
E Hoya species will attract you by its spectacular foliage alone. At once you can
pick this one out from all the rest. The leaves are thick and rigid, elliptic with
narrowing bases. Most of all it is recognized by the contrast between the light green
leaves with prominent deep emerald green venation and the deep green edge to
each leaf.
In its native environment it is not a common plant. It comes from Malaya, South
Thailand and Borneo. The leaves are medium sized, but can be much larger,
especially when it reaches maturity. have found that it roots slowly and takes some
I
time before it establishes itself and really begins to grow rapidly. It may be my
conditions, however feel it is one that is worth waiting for, and once established
I
displays strong growth.
Because of the long internodes (space between leaf pairs) it will help to wrap the
plant around itself to give a more compact appearance. In hanging baskets let some
stems twine around the hanger and then go on to droop back downward. The flower
clusters are compact balls of reflexed waxy flowers. The centers are creamy white
with some yellow tones and contrast well with the bronze-maroon reflexed petal
lobes. This plant is a conversation piece with a lovely fragrance, and another
species you will surely want in your collection.
70
Hoya fraterna Blume
(Picture #115)
he plant we presently call fraterna is very distinctive, having one of the longest
T leaves in Hoya genus. Not only is the foliage large, is also thick and very
the it
rigid, with almost no venation to be seen. It is a strong grower and not a plant for
limited areas. Leaves as long as a foot or more are not uncommon. The reflexed,
fuzzy flowers (described as being between siiky and velvety) are typical of species
of this group, which includes among others Hoya kerrii, Hoya obovata, Hoya,
meliflua, and Hoya diversifolia. All of this group have a compact central crown in
which the outer lobes are rounded off. In addition, all these species are strong
vigorous plants with thick, bold, fleshy leaves. This species, like the others
mentioned above are easy to grow, and rapidly become extremely large plants. The
flowers all exude a very thick nectar, or honey-dew as they age, which often
stains the petals. This staining is visible in the colored photograph. As a word of
caution, it is advisable that you not hang flowering plants above valuables where
the honey-dew may drip on them.
Hoya fraterna a native of the Java forests, and is reported to be difficult to bring
is
into flower. Its rank growth, long internodes and infrequent flowering preclude its
inclusion in many collections. If you have the room and would like to include a
species with the longest leaves, this will be a must for you. The flowers are very
similar to H. obovata but are even larger.
71
Hoya Fungii Merrill
(Picture #67)
he soft appearance of the foliage on

along with the dark green veins,
this plant,
T will immediately attract you to this plant. The leaves are large, and covered with
soft hairs (pubescence). The new leaves are bronze green in color, maturing to an
unusual shade of deep emerald green, and set off with very dark green venation.
The stems, especially on new growth are a lovely bronze purple. These shaded
maroon tints are a pleasant addition to an already beautiful plant.
This is a moderately cold tolerant plant that comes to us originally from the island
of Hainan, off the south coast of China. The island forms the western side of the
gulf of Tonkin, opposite Hanoi, Vietnam. If necessary, this species, along with the
Hoya carnosa types can survive the cold months with less heat than most Hoyas.
Although has been known to survive temperatures lower than 50 degrees
it
fahrenheit, it will be much happier if kept at.. .or above the fifty degree temperature
range.
In addition to the beautiful foliage, another outstanding feature of this plant is its
globular clusters of up to 60 flowers per umbel. The individual flowers are very
similar inappearance to Hoya carnosa, but are usually slightly larger, and have a
bitmore fuzz on the petals. The color of the blooms will vary from pure white, to
pale pink, sometimes a darker rose/pink, depending on temperature and other
environmental factors.
This plant is a medium strong grower, so plan on it occupying considerable space

as it matures. Curl the long stems around the pot and hanger to keep it confined
and to give a more compact form.
This is an especially easy plant to grow and bring into bloom. If you are familiar
with growing Hoya carnosa, then thisone should be a natural for you. Among its
many virtues, is also a lovely fragrance which is likely to win your heart.
72
Hoya inconspicua Hemsley
(Picture #45)
ere is a dainty little climber from the coastal areas of the Solomon Islands.
H lives close to the sea shore in the lowland canyons along streams and trails
It
at
the edge of the jungle. The plant pictured was grown from a cutting collected in
1988, from a plant climbing a small tree along a meandering stream in filtered light
on Guadalcanal Island (a famous battleground of World War II). It was in bloom at
the time, and each flower was covered with tiny, buff colored butterflies, heads
pointed inward to the center and their flat wings covering the entire flower. When I
saw it thought the flower was buff colored. As reached to touch the flowers... to
I I
my surprise they took flight, revealing the rose colored flowers beneath. The insects
were evidently collecting the sweet nectar from the flowers, which tastes somewhat
like refined honey. This is one of the many delightful surprises one experiences in
collecting plants in their native habitat.
This elegant vine is very lacy in its growth habit, with attractive, frosted, lance
shaped leaves. Since foliage varies in this species it is not uncommon to find
different types of leaves. ..sometimeson the same plant. In general the foliage is
as described above, but can change dramatically depending on the growing
conditions. Severe pruning of this plant will also alter its appearance, and force a
very compact clump of leaves to form in contrast to the gracefully cascading plant
from which the original cutting was taken. It will still develop nice long runners of
beautiful new growth reminiscent of its origin. In the Islands, this plant roots in
limestone crevices filled with decomposing debris. Like Hoya cumingiana, it will
probably benefit from the addition of limestone in the potting mix.
Hoya inconspicua is one of the easiest Hoyas to cultivate, an excellent bloomer

which opens all of its exquisite rose/red flowers at one time. ..often with a loud, snap,
crackle and pop. The foliage is attractive and will benefit from an occasional
washing, simulating the afternoon rains of the rainy season on Guadalcanal. It is
happy with many varied conditions from little light to full light, from somewhat dry to
very wet conditions. Keep the potting mix loose and well drained, and you should
have no trouble growing and flowering this desirable species.
73
H o y a kerrii C raib
(Picture #7)
he "sweetheart" or "Valentine" Hoya is a very old standby. It is widely distributed

T the nursery trade, so should be easy to acquire. There are several forms of
in
this species available. The original plant came to us from Thailand and grew in the
jungles of Doi Sootep, an area near Chiang Mai at 390 meters altitude. It is also
found throughout the Indo China area. The very thick, succulent leaves are heart
shaped giving rise to its common name. The leaves on most clones are so fleshy
that no veins are visible. There is however, one variation that has very distinct veins.
Another variation has a decidedly suede-like or velvet feel to the touch. Recently
a beautiful variegated form was collected in Thailand. It is obvious that this species
is a variable one.
Flowers also vary in size and color among the various clones. With intense
collecting, other variations will no doubt show up, and the taxonomic and collector
interest in this species will increase.
The leaves are opposite, as are the majority of Hoya species, and typically, from
2-6" (5-15 cm) long and nearly as wide at their widest. The "hairy" form seems to
have the largest leaves. The plant is an extremely vigorous climber and needs lots
of room to grow. It roots readily at the nodes and along the stems in moist conditions,
making it an adaptable climber in its native habitats. It is possibly the most vigorous
grower of all the Hoyas. It is equipped with an extensive, and very fibrous root
system, which can easily outgrow its container within a short time.
This species is a very consistent and reliable bloomer. It has globular clusters of
15-25 fuzzy, reflexed flowers. The petals recurve almost from the moment they
open. In general the fuzzy petals are white with an underlying tint of lime green.
As the flowers age, the color will change to pink, then to dark, pinkish brown due to
staining by the brown honeydew that is secreted from the deep brown-maroon
corona, or central crown. The outer ends of these coronal lobes are rounded off
and the centers are cupped. Undoubtedly, you will have to tend this plant to keep
it in bounds. Try a tomato cage or a wood trellis.
74
Hoya lacunosa Blume
(Picture #2)
his is an old and basic Hoya world, and is usually available in

favorite in the
T most plant nurseries. A compact plant that may easily fit in the miniature
rather
classification. It will climb.. .but is also a good hanging basket plant, making many
long streamers. The small, deep green leaves are lacunose (cupped or sunken
between the veins), to give an uneven appearance to the leaf surface that is
otherwise held flat.
An outstanding feature of this plant, is its superb, soft, clean scent... somewhat like
hand lotion. This is a plant that is well adapted to light culture, and fits readily into
even the smallest home. It blooms with rather flat clusters of from 15-20 flowers.
Each flower is like a tiny ball of white fuzz with a yellow center. When the flowers
initially open the petals do not at first fold back. One might think they have found a
mutant branch of flowers. Watch the cluster for a day or two and as the cluster
matures the flowers will take on their normal appearance. This is an easy plant to
and grow, has clean
establish attractive foliage, and flowers readily and often. What
more could you ask?
Hoya species are divided into sections for classification purposes. Hoya lacunosa
is the type species for the Otostemma section. you read the old botanical
If literature
you may find this plant named Otostemma lacunosum Blume.
75
H oya limoniaca S. Moore
(Picture #55)
ere is a graceful, clean looking plant with beautiful starry fiower clusters
H standing out to greet you. feel there is some doubt that the plant we are
I
depictingis correctly identified. In any case. ..this plant is handsome, graceful, and
has good form. Mature plants have lots of close set leaves, with many long dangling
runners. The foliage is medium sized, smooth, dark, glossy green, and has a lovely
vein pattern.
The species comes from a small island called the Isle of Pines, off the southern tip
of the long island of NewCaledonia. In World War we used this island with its
II
beautiful white coral sandy beaches and star pine woods as a recreation
area. ..I wish had known about hoyas back then! The literature says the flower is
I
pale yellow and slightly scented. The plant in our possession with this name, can
certainly pass that test. However, the description of the leaves as having apexes
that are obtuse (rounded) is bothersome. ..our plant has very definitely sharp
pointed leaf tips.
Whatever this plant is, it is a winner. Neat, clean foliage, and a good bloomer.
Even without a name at all. ..I would keep this one.
76
^
Hoya m acgillivray F.M. i Bailey
(Picture #87)
ere is a magnificent Australian species. Our original clone came to us from

H the late Peter Tsang, an avid plantsman of Brisbane Australia. This
species was at first thought to be a tetraploid (a plant with a double set of
chromosomes) because of the flower size. It was compared to a slightly smaller
species now thought to be Hoya megalaster also found in northern Queensland,
Australia, but also native to the neighboring New Guinea.
Our species has been sold as Hoya superba; Big Mac; Big Big Mac, and suppose I
other names as well. The blooms can be red or varying shades of purple, and are
often more than 3“ (76 mm) in diameter, somewhat flat and webbed far out on the
petals, reminiscent of a ducks’ foot. The flower clusters consist of
3-7 pendant flowers on long slender pedicels. They appear almost as Christmas
ornaments hanging from fine threads. Even the fine stems do not look like they are
meant to support the rather large glossy waxy leaves.
As the photo shows the flowers are crisp and waxy also and have very distinctive
centers. The leaves are 4" (10 cm) long and 2 (5 cm) wide. In
11
and attractive
cultivation they are often larger. Newgrowth is a beautiful bronze color,
waxy and extremely attractive. Leaves have a heart shaped base with a long arrow
shaped blade and acute points.
If leftgrow without training it likes to run rampant and send out long runners. ..at
to
first It needs to be cut back, or wrapped back on itself to make a more
leafless.
attractive and compact plant.
Hoya macgillivrayi is easier to grow than it is to say. It is also not difficult to bring
into bloom. Do not let this Hoya between waterings, and keep
get completely dry
it warm. It objects to temperatures lower than 60 degrees fahrenheit. With the
largest of all Hoya flowers, attractive foliage, ease of growth, and let’s not forget that
it has the most enchanting fragrance imaginable. ..it is a winner.
77
Hoya m egalaster W arburg
(Picture #88)
rab claws for dinner? Here is another spectacular species from New Guinea
C and neighboring parts of North Eastern Australia. This species was first
published by Dr. Warburg in 1907. One of the differing characteristics of this
species is the narrow, star shaped corona lobes (central part of the flower) which
are plainly visible in our photograph. Not only are the flowers large, distinctive and
strikingly beautiful, but the foliage is deep green and attractive. Once established
it is a strong and rampant grower. Plants with long internodes will be most attractive
if pruned back to force branching, or wrapped back upon themselves. If you don’t
keep this one under control, it will find its way to the nearest light source. In the
greenhouse it will quickly reach the peak of the roof, seeking additional light.
These plants are especially attractive when trained on wire tomato trellises, or
hoops... wrapped in, out and around to produce a beautiful specimen plant. When
a plant blooms with 3-7 large flowers, bring in all your friends to see it. It is
like this
a knock out! This species has some beautiful flower color variations, so don’t settle
for just one you have the room. There are some almost black red types that are
if
certainly worth sneaking into your collection. Always keep a few cuttings going to
share with friends, and to insure against loss of the original plant. Occasionally
mature Hoya plants will die for no apparent reason. If a plant looks unhealthy, take
some cuttings immediately.
78
Hoya meliflua (Blanco) Merrill
(Picture #86)
W ay back in 1837 a Spanish priest by the name of Father Blanco collected and
named a plant Stapelia meliflua. Dr. Merrill who worked for the United States
Department of Agriculture in the Philippines as director of the Bureau of Science in
Manila, determined that this plant was a Hoya and also synonymous
with another species. ..Hoya luzonica described by Dr. Schlechter of Germany.
He combined the latter and named the plant Hoya meliflua. It was said to be the
only species still found in the vicinity of Manila, and generally distributed in the region
from which Father Blanco secured most of his botanical material. It is a little
more complex than this but this plant now goes by the heading name.
The leaves of this plant are deep, glossy green, and very thick, showing no veins.
It, like Hoya fraterna, which resembles (many growers still call this plant "the small
it
leaved fraterna") is a very strong grower, but is a much better bloomer than the
latter. Here is easy to establish, has strong growth, and blooms
a plant that is
readily. The spectacular, globose flower clusters are fuzzy, and deep pink. Like
Hoya kerrii they do exude a colored (almost black) honeydew which stains the
petals of the older flowers. This characteristic is plainly visible in the photo.
Compare the central crown of this plant with that of Hoya kerrii and see the
similarities.
In Father Blanco’s 1 837 description, his last words are "Flor. en Jun. *T, Balicbalic".
This means flowers or was in flower in June and its name in Tagalog, the native
it
language, means "back and forth". More correctly as an old German friend of mine
who worked the long greenhouses at Armstrong Nurseries used to say to me "all
in
day go Forth and Back". do not see the significance of the Tagalog name unless
I I
the name refers to the plant twining out and back or that it is a repeat bloomer, in
and out of flower.
79
Hoya nicholsoniae F. Mueller
(Pictures #32, 36, 90)
W
of
e are fortunate to have many fine clones of this beautiful Australian species
to choose from.
environmental conditions
This is a variable species native to a wide range
Northern Queensland. Our wide range of selection
in
is due for the most part to the extensive collecting done by David J. Liddle of
Mareeba, Queensland, Australia.
In its native habitat it is and found in a wide range of habitats from

usually epiphytic
sea shore to highland mist forests. This Hoya is easy to grow due to its very wide
adaptability. It roots easily from cuttings, grows rapidly and blooms readily.
The plant and stems are and its foliage is waxy

entirely without hairs (glabrous),
with prominent palmate venation. The leaves are mostly flat but in some clones the
edges recurve slightly and the tip bends under also. The foliage in some clones
become bright red or purplish exposed to high light intensities or fed high
if
phosphate fertilizers. This makes for an extremely different and desirable plant.
The flowers are in semi-globose clusters of 10-30. They are generally cream to
yellow in color, however there is one clone with a definite light brown tint, and at
least one that is these colors are normally flushed with
a startling blue green. All of
pink overtones. The reflexed petals are covered with a very fine pubescence,
appearing to general observation to be glabrous. The starry, prominent central
crown is glossy white. If you have room, this is one species of which you may
want to grow several different clones.
80
Hoya num m ularioides Costantin
(Picture #78)
here is some question as to the true identity and thus the true name of the
T species depicted here. The clone pictured came to me from the Sakdi Sir Orchid
Nursery in Bangkok, Thailand. It was evident that the 5 plants received were of at
least two types, maybe even two different species. They appeared to have been
whacked from tree trunks or branches with a machete as some slices of bark and
sapwood were still attached. The one pictured here blooms regularly each fall (early
October), here in Fresno, California, whereas a slightly larger leafed clone, with
rusty leaf coloring, blooms one month later in November.
This species blooms only once a year, but what a profusion of bloom!. Nearly
every node puts forth an umbel of blooms, with from 7-15 small white flowers which
have a soft, pink center, and a mild but spicy fragrance. The flower stem is
deciduous and thus drops off after completing the fall bloom. This action is not
common among Hoyas, as most normally retain the bloom stem (peduncle) and
bloom successively from it. There may be at least 7 different clones of this. ..or
closely related species in commerce, so your plant may vary slightly from this
description.
The plant has a rather upright growth habit and with age, some looping branches.
The leaves are slightly cupped downward, and are a rather dull, olive green and
covered with fine hairs, which gives the plant a suede-like or velvety appearance.
Only the flowers are glabrous (clear of hairs).
This plant likes a small pot, so do not over pot this one. In addition it will grow well
on the dry side, and seems to like a lot of light, but not bright noon-day sun. The
leaves are attached so they can be swiveled readily on their axis, which is novel
and a little unusual. ..It is a darling!
81
Hoya obovata Decaisne
(Pictures #13, 14)
erhaps the all time number 1 champion for blooms. This strong, vigorous
P growing Hoya has thick, fleshy, very round leaves, showing no veins. The color
is medium green, splashed liberally with flecks of pink and white, sometimes silver
or grayish green. The plant is a climber, and will need lots of room. It sends out
long runners. ..at first leafless, but eventually developing the fleshy round leaves. It
may even bloom from these runners before the leaves are well developed. With
high humidity it will develop small rootlets along these stems and at the nodes. New
growth will have slight tints of reddish pigmentation that will disappear as the stem
matures. This one is easy to start from cuttings, and with good light, will bloom
practically year round. Expect clusters of 20-30 fuzzy, white to light rose colored
flowers in a semi globose shape with deep carmine red centers. As with Hoya kerrii,
Hoya meliflua, Hoya diversifolia and other closely related species, this one exudes
a lot of honeydew. In this case the nectar is clear instead of the dark brown color
of the others.
Hoya obovata is said to come from theBhutan in the Moluccas. believe

Straits of I
we have only one clone of this plant in cultivation, and it would be nice if we could
obtain others. Our present plant, however has a lot going for it. A heavy clay pot
is almost a necessity for this heavy vine, and something like a redwood or cedar
trellis to climb on. Wire tomato cages also make good supports. If the plant
becomes completely unmanageable, drastic pruning does no harm. ..the plant will
bloom even more profusely the following year on the new growth.
H. obovata
82
Hoya obscura Elmer ex Burton
(Picture #27)
ore cuttings of this species are received from native collectors in the Philippines
M each year than any other. This may be an indication that it is very plentiful. ..or
so attractive that it always catches their eye.
This plant is easily recognized by its glossy, wax like, distinctively shaped and
veined leaves. Although the leaves may vary in size, they retain a definite
recognizable shape. Many cuttings, when first received, will have small, very thick
leaves. Once they are established and begin to grow, the leaves enlarge and are
much thinner. They also become a lighter green. This is another species whose
leaves will turn deep bronze-red when given more light or high phosphate fertilizers.
This is only true of some clones, and is true of the first clone sent to the United
States by the late Peter Tsang. There are more recent introductions that do not
have this tendency.
In the Philippines this plant has found its way into the nurseries and into their
landscaping. One very effective way it is displayed and grown is by rooting it on
coconuts... husk and
It is pinned in circular fashion around the husk which in
all.
turn is hung hooked

from a wire into the coconut. This is a constructive use of readily
available native materials, and makes a beautiful hanging basket display.
This plant an epiphyte, with compact bushy growth, and makes an excellent
is
house plant. A wonderful light garden subject.. .It seems to be almost immune to
pests, even mealy bugs will by-pass this plant in favor of something more appetizing.
Outdoors, snails will mow it down if they can get to it... so keep some snail bait handy!.
Like most Philippine species, it loves a lot of water and humidity. It will be happy
to be washed off occasionally also. Do not let this plant dry out to where it becomes
completely dry. ..it will wither from too little water. The flower clusters are flat and
made up of dainty, fuzzy, cream to pink balls of fluff that smell lovely. The fragrance
is mild and certainly not over powering. ..just nice. Every Hoya collector should have
at least one clone of this exceptional plant. Like Hoya lacunosa this is another
species in the Otostemma section.
83
Hoya pauciflora Wight
(Picture #104)
his glabrous narrow leaved plant comes from south West India and the
T neighboring Island of Sri Lanka (Ceylon). It is a compact, thick stemmed, bushy
grower. In nature it is found matted over boulders in the moist forest regions or
scrambling on tree trunks in the low mountainous areas, but also up to 5000’
elevation. It seems to prefer shady places... so might flower better in subdued light
and with high humidity. It can not really be considered a climbing vine, but rather a
bushy rambler. The internodes (section of stem between leaf pairs) are irregular
and this gives rise to clumps of leaves. The narrow leaves are rather rigid, deep
green, with slightly turned under edges, cupped in the center with no visible veins.
The leaf point is blunt.
In moist areas and with the high humidity of a greenhouse, this species will readily
form many adventitious roots, mostly at the nodes, but also occasionally from the
internodal areas. It is thus well adapted to clinging to rough rock surfaces. You
might try growing this plant on a rock support. It is a shy bloomer and usually has
only a pair of flowers at a time. It is reported in the literature that the plants from
the Sri Lanka area are good bloomers. This statement is a contradiction of the
plants’ name, as the name itself, "pauciflora" actually means few flowers. Let’s hope
that with further collecting we may find clones that flower more readily.
This would be a good subject for the hybridizer, since the flowers are real
beauties.. .very fuzzy, pure sparkling white, slightly bell shaped, and with a deep
raspberry red central crown. If we could, through hybridization, produce a lovely
compact plant with loads of these fascinating, pure white, wonderfully fragrant
little
flowers, we would all benefit from Many of our fuzzy white flowers are sparkling
it.
crystal white, This is due to the hair cells being hollow, sharply and narrowly pointed,
readily reflecting light. If you are patient and experiment a little with its environment,
you can probably get this one to bloom. It is certainly worth the effort. Let’s hope
some collector will reward us with additional clones of this lovely Indian Hoya
species.
84
Hoya pentaphlebia Merrill
(Picture #113)
his a big, bold leafed hoya, measuring 3 1/2 to 6 1/2 inches long, and very
is
T broad. ..some leaves are almost round. They are waxy, glossy medium green
above and a lighter, dull (not waxy) color on the underside. The margins are
undulant (wavy) and appear crimped due to their size and texture, and often turn
under slightly. The five primary (Penta) veins are readily visible. The new foliage
often exhibits some bronze toning, and on these leaves the pale venation stands
out vividly.
The glabrous flower clusters are made up of 25-35 yellow starry flowers. The edges
of the petal. ..lobes as well as the tip turn under yielding a spoke like flower. The
yellow petals are slightly reflexed, and enhance the raised, star shaped, pure white
center crown. This Hoya is a joy to see in bloom. Although the flowers are not large,
they are exquisitely different. The color is actually a rather buttery yellow. The plant
blooms periodically from early spring through October. You will observe a clean,
sweet, citrus fragrance from the blooms both day and night. This is a peculiar trait,
since most Hoyas are fragrant at night or late evening only. ..reaching a peak of
fragrance the first night, then with successive, diminishing peaks the following
nights.
This Philippine Hoya species described by Dr. E.D. Merrill in 1918 was based on
a plant collected in the Cauayan Valley on the Island of Samar in 1 91 4. The flowers
are very similar to at least two other Philippine species, the differences lie in the
foliage size and in their dissimilar central crowns among the visible difference, and
in their different pollen structures. With its large foliage it is well clothed and makes
a very attractive plant. This species can be considered a medium to large plant of
moderately strong growth. In its native habitat Hoya pentaphlebia is not a plentiful
species.
85
Hoya plicata King and Gamble
(Picture #81)
n 1981 Ted Greenof Kaaawa, Hawaii and were on a collecting trip through
I
I Australia, Java, Singapore, Malaya and the Philippines. At Kuala Lumpur

University in Malaysia, Dr. Chin had provided us with an experienced collector, and
transportation. One of our excursions took us from the flat lands of the capitol area,
to the east and the mountains. On a road that leads to the resort area of the Genting
Highlands, at elevations where the mist forests occur, and about half way up the
mountain on a paved road, we came upon a recently cleared swath cut down the
hill. ..through the forest, to provide eventually for a tramway. All the trees and other
plants had been felled, making this an ideal locality to search for Hoyas and other
plants that ordinarily live in the tops of huge primary jungle trees and are totally
inaccessible. Walking up a twisted trail.. .weaving in and out of these fallen giants,
we came upon orchids, ferns, gesnariads and other exotic plants. In a bend in the
path and under a large tree, spotted the Hoya depicted here. It was not in flower,
I
but who cared!.
This is a beautiful plant, with very dark green (almost black) lacunose leaves
(leaves with sunken areas between the veins). Being a medium grower, and rather
compact... it makes an
basket or hanging plant and is also suited to the light
ideal
garden. Another advantage is that it flowers at a very young age. The flowers are
rather stiff and the colors are not strong, but has some strikingly beautiful shapes
it
as it develops. At maturity the petals roll backwards from the upright center. This
species is such a profuse bloomer, that the many flowers often hide the foliage.
This plant has been confused with Hoya micrantha even by professional botanists.
Complex chemical analysis however, shows the two to be distinct.
86
Hoya polyneura Hooker f.
(Picture #76)
his Hoya is a native of the Himalayan region of India. My first plants of this
T species were sent to me by Mr. Genash Mani Pradhan of Genash Villa,
Kalampong. This beautiful village is nestled against the Himalayan Mountains.
Genash tells me that this species grows as an epiphyte with its long flexible branches
hanging from the lateral branches of large trees which are bathed with the monsoon
breezes. It is found at high altitudes of from 3000’-5000’ elevation. The plant was
first named and described by J.D. Hooker in Flora of British India in 1883.
This plant is downward curved branches that

not a vine. ..but instead, has graceful,
bend from their own The branches are clothed with fleshy, light to medium
weight.
green leaves with prominent and distinctively parallel veins. The leaves remind
some of fish tails, and is sometimes referred to as the "Fish Tailed Hoya". The
it
paired leaves are held flat and are variable in size, mostly 3-4 " long when mature
and 1-2 1/2" at their widest point. The flower clusters are borne from below the
nodes, under the paired leaves, and are usually attached directly to the flowering
branch with little or no bloom stem. ..so the flowers are only visible from below. For
this reason, if the plant is positioned high you will be able to enjoy viewing the flower
clusters when your plant blooms. The reflexed white to cream corolla contrasts
sharply with the clear red-purple color of the corona in the center. It is a true beauty!.
This plant should be grown cool, with high humidity. Do not let the well drained
potting mixture dry out. Air movement and uniform conditions will help this plant
achieve its full potential.
87
Hoya p seu d o lito ralis C. Norman
(Picture #54)
ou will a beautiful clean attractive plant with strikingly beautiful, graceful

find this
Y flower clusters. It is a joy to have around.. .in or out of bloom. The foliage prefers
to stream down over its container edges, rather than climb upward. The fleshy
nature of the stems and leaves is pleasing to see. The rather flat, broad, medium
sized leaves are not always uniformly green, which adds to its interest. New growth
is often a beautiful bronze an the upper surface and a dull pale green below. Mature
leaves are often deep dark green with a dark maroon edging, It is not unusual,
however, for the new growth near the ends of stems to be mottled with yellowish
and pink tones. I would grow this one for the foliage alone.
The species is native to New Guinea and was originally described from a plant
collected by L.J. Brass on 23, February 1934 at Dagwa, Oriomo River, Western
Division, British New Guinea at a low altitude (40 meters). The flowers, as shown
in our color photograph, have a delicate and dainty appearance. The fuzzy, bright
white corolla is a wonderful backdrop to the sloping pagoda shaped, soft pink crown
in the center. The whole appearance of the plant and flowers is graceful and
pleasing.
88
Hoya pubicalyx Merrill var. Chimera
(Picture #68)
nough good things can’t be said about

outstanding Philippine species. In
this
E addition to all the good attributes of the species
itself, this particular type of
variegated plant can be a true eye catcher and a valued conversation piece. This
will be especially true when it bursts into bloom or visitors view colored pictures of
the flower clusters.
As a chimera (a special type of variegation) the plant is full of surprises. The lush,
glossy foliage is a virtual rainbow of colors, it can exhibit irregular sections of purplish
colored leaf tissue. ..especially visible on the young growth and newly formed leaves,
out it can also be streaked and splashed with silver, pink, maroon, iridescent green
and even brown. The new stems are usually purplish brown, as are the leaf petiole
and often the leaf midrib.
When it blooms you are in for Flowers of mixed colors are not
further surprises.
unusual, color mixing within individual flowers, as well as different flowers within the
globular clusters. Each cluster may appear different with occasional clusters of very
dark, almost black flowers, others may have clusters of light pink, bright rose, or
deep pink flowers. It is fun to look for branches exhibiting unique color patterns and
select them for cuttings to start new and improved plants. It would be hard to believe
that anyone could ever grow tired of this uncommon plant.
While we are here let’s look at variegation and chimeras. Variegation is widespread
in the plant kingdom, even Hoya genus. Chimeras are a little more rare.
in the
Variegation may be irregular in form, or regular and more or less controlled. As with
most botanical phenomenon, this can become a very complex topic. For a very
long time we have had variegated Hoyas. Hoya picta var. argentia and Hoya picta
var. aurea are referred to in 1853. These variegated species are still around today.
Hoya compacta, Hoya bella, and Hoya australis are additional species with
variegated forms, and just recently we acquired a gorgeous variegated multiflora.
Chimeras like this H. pubicalyx, are irregular in their expression of color and thus
full of delightful surprises.
89
Hoya purpureofusca Hooker
(Picture #46)
he name Hoya has been attached to a mislabeled species for many years,
of this
T and has much confusion. If you have a plant or receive one with this
led to
name, look at carefully. If you have a plant of H. cinnamomifolia, or know someone
it
who does. ..compare the two. The foliage of the real purpureofusca is practically
identical. Your plant should have large, broad, glossy green leaves, with palmate
venation. If you find that your plant has different venation (pinnate) it is most likely
the old “Pink Silver Vine" and probably should be labeled Hoya pubicalyx.
The flowers are also similar to the flowers of H. cinnamomifolia, but are an entirely
different color, and are referred to as the "Brown Purple flowered Hoya".
This plant comes from the forests of Java, and was sent by Thomas Lobb, an
English collector, to the nursery of Messrs. Veitch in Exiter, England where it
bloomed in September 1849.
This species will bloom with large clusters of fuzzy, reddish brown flowers that have
a very deep red center, from July through September. If conditions are to their liking
they may even bloom in November, December or at some other time.
One of the attractants for pollinators, in addition to color and fragrance is the sweet
honey it exudes. .note the clear honeydew on the flowers. Thisis an absolute must
have for all Hoya collectors.
90
Hoya serpens Hooker
(Picture #8)
his species comes to us from the mountains of Sikkim in the Himalayan region
T of Western India. This is a relatively cool area, bathed by monsoon winds and
periods of much mist and rainfall. Like many Himalayan foothill species, this plant
likes cool growing conditions, the leaves are round and very small, deep green in
color and have an irregular surface with many fine, very short hairs on both surfaces.
The plant branches readily making a dense mat of foliage. The flowers are
noticeably larger than the leaves. The flowers are extremely fuzzy, and when first
opened, are mint green, or sometimes slightly yellow green in color. This color
deepens with age and finally turns to pink. On plants in full bloom, all these colors
can be present at one time as successive umbels open and mature. My plant
finally became happy after wrapped a short 20" piece of tree trunk, about 8” in
I
diameter with some moss, tied a mat of this species on with some green, elastic
plant tape. This log was placed on the gravel floor of my hot house and in full shade,
where it is misted automatically 5 minutes each hour during the warm months, (see
picture #108) During the dull winter months, place it high on a steel stool giving it
I
a little more light. Since adopting this new planting method, the plant has survived
and flourished. After two years my latest plant is healthy, well clothed with lush,
dense foliage, and completely happy with this new treatment (picture #108). Grown
in this manner it is almost impossible to overwater.
This species is not easy to bloom but seems

produce bloom from the pendant
to
portions of stems that part of the plant. Some growers
hang down from the main
report that it is happy in a terrarium. It is a true miniature, so will adapt readily to
this confined culture. Another way it has been successfully grown is in a low, bowl
shaped container of loose potting media with a porous rock in the center over which
it can sprawl and root.
91
Chapter 10
he following pages include 114 additional Hoya species, briefly described, with
T guidelines for the minimum temperature range that individual species should be
subjected to. (W) warm. .above 60° F. (26° C). (M) medium. .above 50° F. (12° C).
(C) cool. .generally above 40° F. (7° C). Note that these are only suggestions. The
majority of Hoyas can adapt to slightly cooler temperatures if kept on the dry side.
Just remember that all Hoyas are considered tropical or sub-tropical, and although
a few species (H. carnosa, com pacta, globulosa, serpens and polyneura) can
survive cooler temperatures, and even a light frost for a short period of time, they
love the warmth, and do best if kept at, or above their minimum temperature range.
Picture #1.. H. australis.. Described on page 64. .The clone pictured is not a
typical flower for this species, in that the petals are normally pure white. The
pink polka dots on the petal tips were a pleasant surprise. (M) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #2.. H. lacunosa. .Described on page 75. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #3.. H. arnottiana.. Described on page 63. (C) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #4.. H. pubicalyx cv. ‘Fresno Beauty’..A registered H. pubicalyx seedling.

Glossy green foliage, heavily speckled with white. Dark rose red flower with white
crown. (M) Photo bv Henry Raphael
Picture #5.. H. kenejiana..Dark green wiry climber. Cheddar cheese yellow

flowers with white fuzz on the corollas, pure white crown. (M) Photo by Henry
Raphael
shaped like shooting

Picture #6.. H. multiflora.. Small, dark yellow flowers stars,
with white crown and purple center. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
92
Picture #7.. H. kerrii ..Described on page 74. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #8.. H. serpens. .Described on page 91. (C) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #9.. H. acuta (green form).. Described on page 62. (M) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #10.. H. sp. from tanna..Dark green, thin leaved species, with milky
white, slightly cup shaped flowers, and a very pale pink crown. (W) Photo by
Ann Wayman
Picture #11.. H. pachyclada..A shrub type Hoya with waxy, pure white, ball
shaped corolla and a white crown. Very thick olive green leaves. (M) Photo by
Henry Raphael
Picture #12.. H. sp. Bangkok #4. .Thick, oval shaped, olive green leaves. Pure
white, extremely waxy flowers with a deep rose red center. (M) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #13.. H. obovata.. Described on page 82. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #14.. H. obovata (foliage).. A close-up photo for those of you who have
not as yet determined whether you have H. kerrii (the sweetheart Hoya), or this
plant, with it’s round, lightly spotted leaves. Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #15.. H. fuscomarginata.. Identity of this plant is not certain. Huge

umbels creamy yellow flowers with a deep pink crown that has dark, dusty
of
rose Foliage on this plant is magnificent.. huge, dark, glossy green leaves
tips.
with purple margins and a beautiful vein pattern. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
between
Picture #16.. H. Mini Belle. .This plant appears to be a hybrid cross
Hoya Hoya shepherdii and Hoya carnosa. Perfect ball-shaped
longifolia, or
umbels of sparkling pink flowers with pink crown and dark red center. Dark
green, stringbean shaped leaves. (C) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #17.. HSI #458. .An unidentified Hoya species with pale pink fuzzy
petals and a darker pink center. Very dark green, lance shaped leaves. (M)
Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #18.. H. diversifolia B.. .Another plant whose unknown.

true identity is
These leaves are enormous, as large as a dinner plate, very thick, glossy green
and spattered with silver blotches. The huge flower umbels are perfectly round
with up to 60 small white to pale yellow flowers. The crown is white with a pink or
sometimes orange center. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
93
Picture #19.. H. polystachya.. Another giant leaved plant from Java. The flowers
are very tiny, brown on the tips, shading to tan toward the center. The crown is
white. These flowers form on bloom stalks that are shaped like deer antlers. (M)
Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #20.. H. sp. Chiang Mai. .This plant has been identified as Hoya
subquintuplinervis. One of the waxiest of Hoya blooms, the buds open a pale
green, and slowly turn to light pink with a white crown. Very thick olive green
leaves. (M) Photo by Chuck Everson
Picture #21.. H. loherii (foliage). .These leaves grow straight up, are hard like
cardboard, and the sides curl under like an inside out canoe. They are medium
green on the outside and a dull pale green on the underside. (W) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #22.. H. loherii. .This plant has been in cultivation for a few years, but
because of the odd upright foliage, was thought to be a Dischidia. The blooms
are tiny, very fuzzy, and a glowing bronze color. (W) Photo by Dale Kloppenburg
Picture #23.. H. sp. F-484..An unidentified species from Borneo. White, fuzzy
petals roll backward into a ball. Beautiful, shiny, glossy green, cascading foliage.
Fragrance of allspice. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #24.. H. cascading, dark green, lance shaped foliage.

littoralis.. Graceful,
Dainty, dark rose colored flowers with white fuzz at the base of the petals, dark
reddish purple crown. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #25.. H. compacta.The Hindu Rope Hoya. Tightly curled and twisted
leaves cling to long dangling branches, and look like knotted rope. The flowers
are white or sometimes pink, and grow from bloom spurs that form between the
leaf stems. This plant also comes in several versions of beautifully variegated
foliage. (C) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #26.. H. calycina..A dazzling pure white Hoya with a deep red halo under
the white crown. Large, very fuzzy leaves that feel like velvet. (M) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #27.. H. obscura.. Described on page 83. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #28.. H. pubicalyx cv. ‘Red Buttons’.The heavy fuzz on the red petals of
this Hoya makes it look almost black. The crown is a beautiful cranberry red with
black in the center. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
94
Picture #29.. H. pubicalyx cv. ‘Bright One’. .Another pubicalyx cultivar that
deserves recognition. Beautiful, iridescent mauve color, with white fuzz on the
tips of the petals. The crown is pale pink with a deeper pink center. (M) Photo
by Ann Wayman
Picture #30.. H. ischnopus.This may not be the correct identity for this plant. It
opened over a period about four days, first pale yellow, then turning pink. A
of
wiry climber with dark green leaves. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #31.. H. bella.. Probably the most photographed Hoya in existence.

Medium sized, pure sparkling white flowers with deep carmine red center. This
is the variety ‘Paxtonii’ and has longer diamond shaped leaves, slightly wavy on
the edges, and larger flowers. The form of H. bella that we are more familiar
with, has very small diamond or lance shaped foliage that cascades beautifully
from a hanging basket. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #32.. H. nicholsoniae..(IML #37). .beautifully veined foliage adorned with

golden yellow flowers and a pure white crown. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #33.. H. shepherdii. .Called the "stringbean Hoya", due to the long
stringbean shaped leaves that dangle stringbeans from a vine. The flowers
like
are small, white or pale pink with a white crown and a dark pink center. (C)
Photo By Ann Wayman
Picture #34.. H. citrinaJt is uncertain whether the plant portrayed here is
actually citrina. Thiswas the name on the label at the time of purchase, so
unless, or until proven otherwise, it will continue to carry this name. The
it is
flowers are white, sometimes pale yellow, very waxy, and has beautiful, big, bold
leaves. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #35.. H. Sp. CI-1244. .A neat, clean growing plant in the Hoya acuta
complex. The leaves on this plant are smaller and thicker then most acuta types.
(M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #36.. H. nicholsoniae..(IML #39). .Gorgeous, heavily veined foliage. The

flowers on this plant are creamy yellow with a ‘cotton candy’ pink center, good
bloomer. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #37.. H. cinnamomifolia.. Described on page 67. (M) Photo by Henry

Raphael
Picture #38.. H. cumingiana.. Described on page 68. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
95
Picture #39.. H. gracilis.. This beautiful little plant came from the Isle of Ceram in
the Celebes. The small lance shaped foliage is speckled all over with silver. The
flowers are small but exquisite. The pink petals are heavily covered with white
fur, but the very tips of the petals are dark pink. The crown is the color of ripe
watermelon. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #40. .H. neoebudica.This tan or slightly orange flower looks as if it were
sculptured in wax, with a luscious contrasting pink center. Foliage is glossy
green with beautiful veins. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #41.. H. pubicalyx cv. ‘Pink Silver’. .Most of us have at least one of these
in The foliage is beautifully patterned with silver, white, pink and
our collections.
sometimes maroon. The flowers are stunning and can be any color from bright
wine red, to purple, or like this one a delicious cotton candy pink. (M) Photo by
Ann Wayman
Picture #42.. H padangensis.. Perhaps the most unusual shaped Hoya, with
petals whose sides curl under to form tight little rolls. This Hoya can bloom light
brown, pale pink or off white with a prominent pure white crown. The buds are a
perfect star shape. The foliage is dark olive green, often with some silver
streaking. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #43.. H. sp. PNG 4. .Dark green dangling foliage, with prominent veins.
Medium sized, slightly fuzzy flowers are pinkish purple, with dark, port wine
colored crown. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #44.. H. camphorifolia.. Described on page 66. (W) Photo by Ann

Wayman
Picture #45.. H. inconspicua.. Described on page 73. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #46.. H. purpureofusca.. Described on page 90. (W) Photo by Ann

Wayman
Picture #47.. H. caudata var. crassifolia.. Flowers on this Hoya are small to
medium in size, pure white to pale pink in color, with long silky, white hairs on the
petal edges. The center crown is dark rose red with long, white hairs protruding
from the center. New leaves are iridescent, emerald green, with silver blotching,
as they age they become hard as cardboard, and exposure to bright light will turn
the spotting on the leaves to bright pink or maroon. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #48.. H. odorata.True to name, this Hoya has a lovely, spicy, citrus
its
fragrance. The leaves are very thin, and copper colored when new. The
branches are long, and cascade gracefully from their own weight as they age.
96
The large, pure white flowers have a startling bright yellow crown, and form on
pedicels that grow directly from the leaf axils instead of on long bloom spurs. (W)
Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #49.. H. sp. PNG 1.. Probably the same species as PNG 4. This
particular clone has narrower leaves. The flowers are brownish red and form
large, spherical umbels. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #50.. H. pottsii.The likelihood of this plant being pottsii is doubtful. The
foliage is bold and beautifully veined, turning shiny cordovan brown in bright
light. The flowers are very waxy, white or slightly tan, with a white crown and a
dark rose colored center. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #51.. H. erythrina.. Described on page 69. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #53.. H. diversifolia.The large, thick, succulent leaves on this plant are
variable and can be oval shaped, long and broad or other shapes as well, on the
same plant, thus the name diversifolia. The dusty rose to slightly orange colored
flowers are small and very fuzzy, with a deep pink stripe down the center of each
petal, the crown is dark, rose red. (M) Photo by Henry Raphael
Picture #54.. H. pseudolitoralis.. Described on page 88. (W) Photo by Ann

Wayman
Picture #55.. H. limoniaca.. Described on page 76. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #56.. H. sp. CMF-8..This gorgeous plant from the Philippines has
dazzling, dark green leaves, attractively net veined in white. The creamy yellow
flowers are very waxy, have a pretty pink crown, with dark pink petal tips and
center. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #57.. H. bilobata.. Described on page 65. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #58.. H. micrantha. .Medium sized, very hard, cardboard-like leaves are
dark grass green and have a graceful cascading habit that makes a beautiful
basket plant. The flowers are tiny, pale pink, and very fuzzy with a stunning rose
red crown. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #59.. H. sp. PNG 6. .Gorgeous, heavily veined foliage makes a beautiful
back-drop for these rather small, fuzzy flowers. They are a peculiar color, being
neither brown, pink or orange, but somewhere in between. (M) Photo by Ann
Wayman
97
Picture #60.. H. poolei.. Dazzling, fuzzy, sugar white flowers with a delicate,
translucent pink crown and a dark pink center. Foliage is dull gray green, but
turns reddish bronze in bright light. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #61.. H. tsangii.. Formerly sold as H. sp. DS-70, and also as H.

angustifolia. This pretty little plant is a "blooming fool". Blooms practically year
round, displaying hundreds of tiny, very fuzzy pink flowers. The crown is dark
pink with yellow tips. The leaves are dull gray green due to the heavy, short
white fuzz that feels like felt or suede. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #62.. H. merrillii.. Absolutely stunning foliage adorns this plant. Leaves
turn a dark, shiny, cordovan brown in bright light. The starry flowers are pale,
creamy yellow with petal tips that curl under at the sides and tip to give a
squared off appearance. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #63.. H. diptera..Neat, clean, bright green, oval shaped leaves give this
plant a tidy appearance. The flowers open pale mint green then turn yellow,
having a light fuzz along the edges of each petal. The crown is translucent, with
brownish yellow tips and a dark, rose pink center. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #64.. H. affinis..A large flowered Hoya in the Ereostemma section. The
foliage of the plants in this section are always fuzzy to some degree, The flowers
are usually verywaxy with a hard texture and good lasting qualities. The flowers
on this Hoya are over one inch across, brownish purple in color with a yellow
crown and a dark brown center. (W) Photo by Ted Green
Picture #65.. H. acuta (bronze form). .Typical acuta type flowers. The buds are a
glowing bronze color. The open flowers have a pinkish bronze tint. (M) Photo by
Ann Wayman
Picture #66.. H. darwinii.. Comes from the Philippines, and is one of the true
beauties of the Hoya world. Unfortunately this is a very difficult Hoya to grow.
The leaves, as a rule, are thin and dark blue green, but it will often form large
bullate leaves that are inhabited by ants in the wild. The flowers are large,
iridescent, pinkish mauve in color, with a pure white crown and a dark rose red
center. The crown sits very prominently on top, like a queen’s tiara. (W) Photo
by Rex Elliott
Picture #67.. H. fungii.. Described on page 72. (M) Photo by Henry Raphael
Picture #68.. H. pubicalyx var. Chimera. .Described on page 89. (M) Photo by
Ann Wayman
98
Picture #69.. H. Sp. Gold Star.. Another very large Hoya Ereostemma
of the
section. The leaves are slightly fuzzy, and medium green in color. The flower is
one and one half inch ormore across, very hard and waxy in texture, and a
delightful golden yellow in color. The crown is also golden yellow. (W) Photo by
Bob Stone
Picture #70.. H. carnosa cv.’Krinkle more decorative cultivars that

8’. .One of the
has appeared in recent years, and among the very best! The foliage is thick and
quite succulent, dark, glossy green with indentations on each side of the
mid-vein. The medium sized carnosa type flowers are either pure white with a
red center or can be various shades of pink. The growth pattern of this plant
makes a winner. The close leaved branches grow rapidly, into long, cascading
it
waterfalls of deep green. There is also a gorgeous, variegated form of this plant.
(C) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #71.. H. sp. BSI-1 These large, slightly cup shaped, pinkish purple
..
flowers virtually sparkle. The crown is pure white with a deep red center. The
leaves on this plant are not very thick but are quite large, and an attractive, dark
blue green in color. The open flowers have a luscious grape fragrance. (W)
Photo by Bob Stone
Picture #72.. H. sp. Sabah Malaysia. .This species appears to be in the Hoya
acuta complex. It has earned a place in our Hall of Fame because of its fantastic
blooming qualities. It flowers practically year round, with dozens of umbels open
at a time. The flowers are small, white, and very waxy. It has a mild honey
fragrance. (M) Phoyo by Ann Wayman
Picture #73.. H. archboldiana. .These bowl shaped flowers are two inches
across, and this particular clone is rose red inside the bowl with a cranberry red
corona. The outside of the bowl is light emerald green. The leaves are very
large, and such a dark green that they appear black. The fragrance of these
flowers is spellbinding. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #74.. H. sp. an unidentified, velvet leaved plant from New

WMZ.This is
Guinea. The pure white flowers are very large, up to two and a half inches
across, slightly bowl shaped, and have a huge lime green calyx with a red edge.
Another wonderfully fragrant Hoya. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #77.. H. naumanii.The identity of this plant is doubtful. Whatever it is,

it’s a real beauty, with one inch, pale pink flowers having a darker pink at the
base of each petal, and shading to light rose near the tips. The crown is pure
white. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
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Picture #78.. H. nummularioides.. Described on page 81. (C) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #79.. H. coriacea.. Large blue green leaves have a soft quilted texture.
These huge umbels, more golden yellow flowers, with long
often consist of 50 or
silky hairs on the The crown is very waxy and pure white to pale pink with
petals.
a mauve center. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #80.. H. carnosa..One of the oldest, and best known of all the Hoya
species. .It remains, one of the very best. (C) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #81.. H. plicata.. Described on page 86. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #82.. H. motoskei.The Hoya specimen that was described, named H.

carnosa and placed in herbariums in the year 1802 belonged to this
species. ..thereby making this the "true" Hoya carnosa. This clone goes by the
name of "Snowball" because of the pure white, ball shaped clusters of flowers.
The leaves of this plant are dark green, and quite thick and succulent with a short
fuzz on the backside. It has an overpowering honey fragrance. (C) Photo by
Ann Wayman
Picture #83.. H. pubicalyx cv. ‘Dapple Gray’.This plant has the typical silver and
pink spattered leaf of pubicalyx, but also has some areas of gray blotches. The
large flowers are a gorgeous shade of rose wine, with silvery or light gray fuzz
around each petal edge. Nice fragrance, and a very heavy bloomer. (M) Photo
by Ann Wayman
Picture #84.. H. carnosa ‘Krimson Queen’.. All Hoyas have attractive green
foliage. This a stunning variation with dark blue green centers and edged in
is
pink, white or sometimes yellow. Often these colors are all found on the same
plant. (C) Photographer unknown
Picture #85.. H. australis ssp. sanae..A desert form of Hoya australis with
extremely thick, succulent leaves. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #86.. H. meliflua.. Described on page 79. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #87.. H. macgillivrayi.. Described on page 77. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #88.. H. megalster.. Described on page 78. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #89.. H. linearis.The very odd shaped leaves of this species from India
seem to disguise the fact that this is actually a Hoya, however when the small
white flowers open, there is no denying that this is indeed a Hoya. The leaves on
100
this plant are two to three inches long, straw thin, and covered with long, velvety
hairs. The leaves droop lazily from thread-like stems. Aphids don’t normally
bother this plant, nor do mealy bugs. It is, however "spider mite" heaven, and it
is suggested that this plant be sprayed weekly with a diluted alcohol solution to
keep the mites at bay. If you can keep the mites off this plant, it can grow to four
feet long or more in one season. (M) Photo by Carla McGavran
Picture #90.. H. Sp. USDA 354239. .A beautiful plant in the Hoya nicholsoniae
complex. The leaves are heavily veined, and the foliage turns mahogany brown
in bright light. The flowers are pale mint green with a white crown. (M) Photo by
Ann Wayman
Picture #91.. H. sp. Kuching, Borneo (#ML 232). .This a beautiful little plant
is
collected in Borneo. The foliage is very similar to H. lacunosa, but there the
similarities end. The flower is pure white with a dark cranberry red crown. The
petals do not reflex backwards, but instead are pushed upwards at the base from
a small ridge underneath. This makes the crown appear sunken, and
surrounded by tiny white pillows. Only the petal tips curl under. Wonderfully
fragrant. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #92.. H. archboliana (pink form). .This merely another color variation to
is
H. archboldiana (picture #73), being a lovely dusty rose around the top of the
bowl. The center inside is startling white, the crown is cranberry red. The bowl
on the outside is white to pale pink. The foliage on this plant is smaller and not
as dark as the red form. It is not unusual for this plant to have two hundred or
more flowers open at once. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #93.. H. chlorantha var. tutuilensis.This pretty species comes from

Tutuila in American Samoa. The leaves are thin and lance shaped, the stems
are thread-thin and wiry. The fuzzy flowers on this species are rather small but
impressive, being yellowish brown, and marbled with rose colored streaks
throughout each petal. The crown is reddish brown. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #94.. H. sp. Bangkok Red.. An unidentified species from Thailand. The
flowers of this species are pure white, including the crown, and have the
appearance of being carved from wax. The foliage of this plant makes it a
worthwhile addition to collections. The leaves are very thick and succulent, and
will turn a gorgeous, shiny, cordovan brown or sometimes dark maroon in bright
light, hence the name "Bangkok Red". (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #95.. H. eitapensis.This small growing, basket plant comes from New
Guinea, and has pure white flowers, slightly fuzzy on the edges of the petals, and
a yellow center. It is difficult to tell which way is up on this species, as the foliage
101
has an unusual growth pattern, and appears to be growing upside down. The
leaves are a lovely olive green and turn pinkish brown in bright light. (W) Photo
by Ann Wayman
Picture #96.. H. kentiana.This species has long, thick, stringbean shaped

foliage, the sides curve upwards forming a crease down the center. The flowers
are small, and the very fuzzy, rose colored petals recurve backwards to form a
ball. The crown is red, or reddish purple, and sits atop the curved petals like a
tiny pagoda. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #97.. H. sussuella (ariadna).The identity of this species is not certain,

however, ‘ariadna’ is the name the plant is sold under by many dealers. It is a
species in the Ereostemma section, has slightly fuzzy leaves and stems when
young, turning hairless with age. This plant is a real challenge to bloom, but
worth the effort. The flowers are magnificent! Very large and waxy, burnt orange
in color with a golden yellow crown, and a dark brown stain at the base of each
coronal lobe. The flowers open out flat, the bases of the petals are pushed up
around the crown from a ridge underneath and the sides and tip end of the petals
curl under slightly. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #98. .H. sp. DAV-817..This species is identical to the plant pictured in
frame #71 ..BSI-1 It is shown here again, due to the fact that it is being sold
.
under both numbers. It is also sold under the name H. subcalva. Hopefully there
will be a proper identification for this beautiful species soon. (W) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #99.. H. erythrostemma..A ballet dancer in a lacy white tutu, would be an

ideal description of this gorgeous Malaysian species. The foliage of this plant is
so similar to Hoyas in the acuta complex, that many people were fooled for
several years, thinking was just another Hoya acuta. The story goes,
it that even
as the buds formed, it was realized that this species was something
extraordinary. These very unique flowers are breathtakingly beautiful. Pure
sparkling white, very fuzzy or lacy petals topped by a rich, ruby red crown. The
individual flowers are sized, but the umbels consist of 40 to 50 each,
medium
forming a flower cluster approximately three inches across. (M) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #100.. H. dimorphaJt is uncertain whether this is the proper

identification for this plant. The flower umbels are quite large and consist of 35 to
40 medium sized, golden yellow flowers with a lot of white fuzz on each petal, the
crown is pure white. The foliage is dark blue green, the stems are thin and wiry.
(M) Photo by George French
Picture #101.. H. incrassata.There are many clones of this Philippine species

being distributed. The leaves on some are long, rather thin and oval shaped,
102
others have almost round, thicker leaves. The flowers on all these clones appear
to be the same, with maybe some being only a little larger than others. This is an
extremely easy plant to grow and flower. The individual flowers are quite small,
very waxy, and golden yellow with dark brown petal tips that reflex sharply
backwards. The crown is white. This species has a lovely, mild, spice
fragrance. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #102.. H. multiflora. .A gorgeous, blue/green foliaged clone from the

Philippines. The soft, mint green color of these flowers and the petals that lay
out almost flat, are the distinguishing feature that sets this plant apart from the
other clones of multiflora. It flowers off and on throughout the year, with its
heaviest concentration of blooms appearing in early spring. (W) Photo by Ann
Wayman
Picture #103.. H. sp. Sabah Malaysia (IML #557). .Although this species
remains unidentified at this time, no collection should be without this beautiful
little plant. It would be considered a semi miniature, and perfect for the light
garden, or window sill The leaves are approximately three inches long
growing.
and pointed at both ends, emerald green in color with spots and streaks of white
and brown. The flowering umbel consists of 25 to 30 medium sized flowers
whose petals are dark, dusty rose with a light overlay of soft white hair. The
crown is sparkling ruby red, rather large, and sits atop of the petals like a
Chinese pagoda. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #105.. H. caudata var. crassifolia..A very close-up shot of the same
blossoms that are featured in picture #47. Shown here again
delicate to
emphasize these exquisite, lace-like flowers. (M) Photo by Rex Elliott
Picture #106.. H. sp. Bogor.. This plant has been tentatively identified as H.
pallida, but isbeing considered for further study. The leaves of this plant have
very rigid acuta type leaves, but with small indentations on top along the
mid-vein. The flowers are small to medium sized and are coppery pink including
the crown, and has a dark pink center. Strong honey fragrance. (M) Photo by
Ann Wayman
Picture #107.. H. sp. DAV-819..A species collected in the Solomon Islands and
tentatively identified as H. cominsii. The stunning foliage of this plant is slightly
heart shaped, emerald green and heavily net veined The flowers are
in white.
medium sized and open a lovely mint green, fading gradually to light creamy
yellow with a startling pure white crown. The petals turn under on the tips and
sides to produce a squared off appearance. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
103
Picture #108.. H. serpens. .A particularly elegant technique for growing H.
serpens is on a moss covered log. The moss must be kept moist at all times,
and a light daily misting with a hose or spray bottle is recommended. (M) Photo
by Ann Wayman
Picture #109.. H. sp. New Guinea White.. Another velvetleaved species from the
island of New Guinea. The flower is cup shaped, and pure white.
large, slightly
The only other color on this flower is just the barest hint of red underneath the
waxy white crown. A nice, but almost overpowering fragrance accompanies the
opening of these flowers. Very difficult to bring into first bloom, but an easy
bloomer once it gets started. Also sold as USDA #354244. (M) Photo by Carla
McGavran
Picture #110.. H. globulosa..Many collectors have this plant incorrectly labeled

as H. bandaensis. The foliage of this species is simply gorgeous, dark emerald
green, with even darker marbled veins that are often quite fuzzy. It’s reported to
be very difficult to flower in the U.S. but some growers here who grow them
outdoors have great success with blooming. The flowers are medium in size,
pure white to soft, creamy yellow, with a hint of pink under the white crown. They
form huge umbels that are perfect spheres, or globe shaped, hence the name
‘globulosa’. This is also one of the few Hoyas that is described as having a
rather foul odor. (C) Photo by Chuck Everson
Picture #111.. H. imperialis var. rauschiLAn aptly named Hoya, in that it is fit for
a king! The flower umbels usually consist of 8 to 8 large, slightly cup shaped
flowers up to three inches across, and can be any shade of coppery pink to
brownish red with a pure white crown. This variety has large, slightly wavy, dark
green foliage. (W) Photo by Henry Raphael
Picture #112.. H. densifolia..lt is not certain whether this is the correct identity for
this plant. It appears to match the drawings and descriptions in the literature.
The flowers seem identical to those cumingiana, at least to the naked eye.
of H.
The foliage is also similar but longer, thinner and the internodes are farther apart.
It blooms more freely than cumingiana. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #113.. H. pentaphlebia., Described on page 85. (W) Photo by Ann

Wayman
Picture #114.. H. carnosa variegata..A typical carnosa type flower, usually light
to dark pink, and with a dark red center. The spectacular foliage of these
variegated type plants are their major attraction. The new growth is normally
dark purple or maroon, but soon begin to turn different colors as they age. Fully
mature leaves can be green and white, green and pink, green and yellow, or
display all of these colors at once, with an occasional branch displaying solid
104
white or solid pink leaves. These white and pink leaved branches don’t normally
live very long as they have no chlorophyll, but enjoy the contrast for a few weeks,
then cut them out to preserve the strength of the rest of the plant. Any solid
green branches should also be removed as they are stronger, with an
abundance of chlorophyll that will eventually turn the entire plant solid green. (C)
Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #115.. H. fraterna.. Described on page 28. This photo arrived labeled H.
fraterna, however, based on the foliage that is visable in the background, it
appears to be a photo of H. meliflua. The flowers of these two species are
identical (at least to the naked eye), and the only apparent difference is in the
size of the leaves. (M) Photo by Henry Raphael
Picture #116.. H. diversifolia B..The plant pictured here, has been called by this
name for years. No one knows for sure what species it is, though it has been
recognized that it is not a part of the diversifolia family complex, and it’s uncertain
whether has ever been published. No literature has ever been found that
it
totally matches the description of this plant.. .leaves that approach the size of a
dinner plate, very thick and rigid, splashed liberally with white or silver,
sometimes with gray. The stems of this plant are immense and with age, can
reach the diameter of a broomstick. The bloom spurs (peduncles) are purple,
usually about 3 to 4 inches long, 1 inch or more in diameter, becoming thicker
toward the flowering end, very rigid, and grow straight up. The individual flowers
are small to medium in size with up to 60 or more in each cluster, forming an
umbel of white or pale yellow flowers as large as a softball. Smells nice. Very
good bloomer! (M) Photo by George French
Picture #117.. H. mitrata..A real odd-ball! The foliage of this plant grows in
streaks and spurts of tightly packed, cabbage-like leaves, then a section of long
internodes with the leaves spaced out over several feet of stem, then another
batch of tightly packed cabbage-like leaves. The flowers normally grow out of
the center of the tightly packed leaves, and are small but spectacular in
appearance as the petals reflex sharply and force the tall crown to protrude even
more dramatically. The name mitrata, in fact, means turban-like, and is a
suitable name for this species. (M) Photo by Ted Green
Picture #118.. H. curtisii/pruinosa.The name of this plant is written here in this

manner because at this point it being sold under both of these names. No
is
matter what name it eventually winds up with, this is a priority plant for every
Hoya collector. It is an absolute darling, with tiny, thick, silver splashed leaves
and an abundance of adorable, sharply reflexed, creamy yellow, or buff colored
flowers with a high crown and a red center. (M) Photo by Ted Green
Picture #119.. H. pubera.. Another Hoya whose identification needs more study.
This plant was sold for several years with the name of H. bilobata "Ben Hardy"
105
and was thought to have been collected The leaves are dime sized
in Java.
ovals of dark green. The flowers are extremely
and difficult to see with the
small,
naked eye. Only through the use of a magnifying glass, or a high powered
macro lens of a camera do the intricate details of these tiny flowers become
visible. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #120. .Gorgeous variegated foliage of an H. carnosa clone with the

"common name" of Suzie Q. (C) Photo by Chuck Everson
Picture #121. .A full basket of H. obovata foliage. Photo by Chuck Everson
Picture #122..H. obscura.. Showing some mahogany colored leaves. Winter sun
will turn this entire plant a beautiful cordovan brown with white veins and green
leaf margins. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #123.. H. carnosa.. Dark blue green leaves sprinkled with silver or white
is another form of variegation in this interesting plant genus. (C) Photo by Chuck
Everson
Picture #124.. H. the sweetheart Hoya with a twist. Gorgeous golden

kerrii,
yellow variegation various patterns adorns the leaves of this recently collected
in
plant from Thailand. (M) Photo by Chanin Thorut
Picture #125..A spectacular basket of Hoya bella with hundreds of umbels of

flowers open. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #126.. H. purpureofusca.The big, the bold and the beautiful!. Foliage of
a young plant of H. purpureofusca is shown here for comparison to the plant of
H. pubicalyx cv. ‘Pink Silver’ (the pink silver vine) that many growers still have in
their collections incorrectly labeled with this name. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #127.. H. ciliata..One of the more spectacular Hoyas, especially in
regards to color. This species is called the "Black Hoya" for obvious reasons.
The foliage and velvety, the flowers are such a deep purple that they
is soft
appear to be black. They have a golden yellow crown and a deep purple center.
(M) Photo by Ted Green
Picture #128.. H. chlorantha.. Unlike the variety tutuilensis (Picture #93;, aiese
flowers are greenish white with a darker green center that extends almost to the
ends of each petal tip. Thin wiry stems with dark green, lance shaped leaves.
(W) Photo by Ted Green
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Picture #129.. H. lanceolata.. Practically identical to H. bella, but with long, lance
shaped, lacy looking foliage. The flowers are pure white. The translucent crown
has a dusty rose tint, with dark rose coloring on the tips and base of each coronal
lobe. (M) Photo by Ted Green
Picture #130.. H. imbricata..A weird but wonderful Hoya species with a most
unusual growth pattern. The word imbricate means overlapping shingle fashion,
and is a perfect description of the manner in which these leaves grow. The
stems start out with a pair of round, opposite leaves, but one leaf is smaller and
aborts, or dies off. The remaining leaf develops roots at the node and clings
tightly to its support. A new stem begins to grow from this point, and a new pair
of opposite leaves form very close, and slightly overlapping the older leaf.. .aborts
one, and the process goes on and on. The flower clusters consist of 20 or so
very tiny ball shaped flowers that are pale yellow with white fuzz on the petals.
The crown is golden yellow with long white stamens coming out of the center.
(W) Photo by Ted Green
Picture #131.. H. guppyii..Dark, emerald green buds open to reveal gorgeous,

saucer shaped, maroon colored flowers that are 1 inch or more across with a
white crown. The under side of this flower remains emerald green, producing a
startling impression. Foliage is slightly fuzzy, as are all Hoyas in this Eriostemma
section. (W) Photo by Ted Green
Picture #132.. H. sp. USDA #354241. .Another candidate for the wax museum.
The saucer shaped flowers are an iridescent, reddish brown color that
large,
have the appearance of being buffed to a high shine. The crown is yellow with
the coronal lobes being almost completely round, and with a dark brown stain at
their base. The foliage is medium gray/green and slightly fuzzy. (W) Photo by
Ted Green
Picture #133.. H leucorhoda..A compact growing plant with clean looking, glossy
green, slightly heart shaped foliage. The flowers are medium sized, white or buff
colored and have a very waxy, golden yellow crown with a dark brownish orange
center. This is a neat plant! (W) Photo by Ted Green
Picture #134.. H. australis ssp. rupicola..A small growing plant from Australia.
This species grows in the sandy desert among
does not twine, but
rocks. It
sprawls and scrambles across nearby rocks and boulders. The name ‘rupicola’
means "rock dweller". (M) Photo by Ann Way man
Picture #135.. H. ruscifolia.The identity for this plant is doubtful. The foliage is
practically identical to the plant we call H. bilobata (not at all like the leaves of
ruscus, or "The Butcher’s Broom" that the plant is supposed to resemble). The
flowers are very tiny. (W) Photo by Ann Wayman
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Picture #136.. H. Sp. New Guinea Gold. .Another very large, very waxy species
in the Eriostemma section. As the name suggests, the flowers are a gorgeous
golden yellow. (W) Photo by Bob Stone
Picture #137.. H. Sp. USDA

354246. .A Hoya nicholsoniae with copper colored
flowers and darker, coppery pink stripes down each petal. The foliage also has
copper tones. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #138.. H. engleriana..A true miniature plant with leaves that resemble
green colored grains of rice. The flowers are quite large for such a small plant,
pure white and with a dark crimson red crown. Many people are still getting H.
serpens with this name on the label. (M) Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #139.. H. motoskeLA hanging tomato cage is a lovely treatment for this
old and Photographer unknown
reliable friend. (C)
Picture #140.. H. sp. HSI #458. .A full view of this darling little plant, and it’s
foliage. (M) Photo by Henry Raphael
Picture #141.. H. multiflora..A clone with gorgeous variegated foliage has arrived
on the scene. (W) Photo by Bob or Margie Stone
Picture #142.. H. nicholsoniae. .This clone has been sold for many years as the
small leaved H. cinnamomifolia. It is not related to that species, nor does it
resemble it in any way. The flowers are waxy, and have a definite tan or brown
tint to them. The foliage turns a gorgeous mahogany color in winter sun. (M)
Photo by Ann Wayman
Picture #143.. A
grouping of Hoya plants at the County Fair, including a
variegated Indian Rope Hoya, and a basket of H. megalaster with 3" blooms.
Photo by Jim Wayman
Picture #144.. H. camosa.The old fashioned "wax vine". This species has been
country for a hundred years or more, and is just as popular
in cultivation in this
today as it was back in Grandmothers time. How long can a Hoya live? This
question is answered in part, by this 25 year old plant which has had close to
1000 cuttings taken for propagation over the years. Photo by Ann Wayman
108
THE PICTURE GALLERY
I
{1} H. australis {2} H. lacunosa
{3} H. arnottiana {4} H. pubicalyx ‘Fresno Beauty’
{5} H. kenejiana {6} H. multiflora

{7} H. kerrii {8} H. serpens
{9} H. acuta (Green Form) {10} H. sp. tanna
{11} H. pachyclada {12} H. sp. Bangkok #4

{13} H. obovata {14} H. obovata (Foliage)
{15} H. fuscomarginata {16} H. Mini Belle
{17} H.Sp. HSI # 458 {18} H. diversifolia B.
IV
{19} H. polystachya {20} H. sp. Cbiang Mai
{21} H. loherii (Foliage) {22} H. loherii
{23} H. sp. F-484 {24} H. littoralis
V
{29} H. pubicalyx ‘Bright One’ {30} H. ischnopus
VI
{31} H. bella {32} H. nicholsoniae # IML37
{33} H. shepherdii {34} H. citrina
{35} H. sp. CI-1244 {36} H. nicholsoniae # IML39
VII
{37} H. cinnomomifolia {38} H. cumingiana
{39} H. gracilis {40} H. neoebudica
{41} H. pubicalyx ‘Pink Silver’ {42} H. padangensis
VIII
{43} H.sp. PNG 4 {44} H. camphorifolia
{45} H. inconspicua {46} H. purpureofusca
{47} H. caudata var. crassifolia {48} H. odorata
IX
{49} H. sp. PNG 1 {50} H. pottsii
{51} H. erythrina {52} H. sp. IML33
{53} H. diversifolia {54} H. pseudolitoralis
X
{55} H. limoniaca {56} H. sp. CMF-8
{57} H. bilobata {58} H. micrantha
{59} H. sp. PNG 6 {60} H. poolei
XI
{61} H. tsangii {62} H. merrillii
{63} H. diptera {64} H. affinis
{65} H. acuta (Bronze) {66} H. darvvinii
XII
{67} H.fungii {68} H. pubicalyx ‘chimera’
8’
{69} H. sp. Gold Star {70} H. carnosa “Kr inkle
{71} H. sp. BSI-1 {72} H. sp. Sabah Malaysia
XIII
{73} H. archboldiana (Red Form) {74} H. sp.WMZ
{75} H. finlaysonii {76} H. polyneura
{77} H. naumanii {78} H. nummularioides
XIV
{79} H. coriacea {80} H. carnosa
{81} H. plicata {82} H. motoskei
{83} H. carnosa ‘Dapple Gray’ {84} H. carnosa ‘Krimson Queen’ (Foliage)
XV
{85} H. sanae {86} H. meliflua
{87} H. macgillivrayi {88} H. megalaster
{89} H. linearis {90} H. sp. USDA # 354239
XVI
{91} H. sp. Kutcbing Borneo IML 232 {92} H. archboldiana (Pink Form)
{93} H. chlorantha var. tutuilensis {94} H. sp. Bangkok Red
{95} H. eitapensis {96} H. kentiana
XVII
{97} H. sussuella (ariadna) {98} H. DAV-817
{99} H. erythrostemma {100} H. dimorpha
{101} H. incrassata {102} H. multiflora (Philippines)
XVIII
{103} H. sp. Sabah Malaysia IML 557 {104} H. pauciflora
{105} H. caudata var. crassifolia {106} H. sp. Bogar
{107} H. sp. DAV-819 {108} H. serpens (growing on log)
XIX
{109} H. sp. New Guinea White {110} H. giobuiosa
{111} H. imperialis {112} H. densifolia
{113} H. pentaphlebia {114} H. carnosa variegata
XX
{115} H. fraterna {116} H. diversifolia B
{117} H. mitrata {118} H. curtisii/pruinosa
{119} H. pubera {120} H. carnosa ‘Suzie Q’
XXI
{121} H. obovata (Foliage) {122} H. obscura & foliage
{123} H. carnosa (Foliage) {124} H. kerrii (Variegated)
{125} H. bella {126} H. purpureofusca
XXII
{127} H. ciliata {128} H. chlorantha
{129} H. lanceolata {130} H. imbricata
{131} H. guppyii {132} H. Sp. USDA# 354241
XXIII
{133} H. leucorhoda {134} H. australis ssp. rupicola
{135} H. ruscifolia {136} H. Sp. New Guinea Gold
{137} H. Sp. USDA # 354246 {138} H. engleriana
XXIV
{139} H. motoskei {140} H. Sp. HSI-458
{141} H. multiflora (variegata) {142} H. nicholsoniae
{143} H. compacta & megalaster {144} H. carnosa
XXV
Glossary
are correctly enclosed within single quotation
Acid.. .A reference to a pH below 7.0.
level marks.
Acidity is an indication of the absence of lime
in potting mix or water. Cutting... A portion of stem, usually with
leaves left intact, that is removed from a plant
Active growth period. ..The period when a and treated in such a way as to produce new
plant begins to put on new growth, increases roots and eventually grows into a new plant.
in size, and generally produces flowers.
Epiphyte. ..A type of plant that uses the
Alkaline. ..A reference to a pH level above branches and bark of other plants as a
7.0. Alkalinity is an indication of the presence growing site. Epiphytes do not feed off of
of lime. ..The opposite of acid. their host plant, so are not parasitic.
Alternate.. .A reference to the placement of Flower.. .The plant organ that is specialized
leaves on a stem. Alternate leaves are borne for sexual reproduction, in which pollen from
singly at different heights, more or less the male part (the stamen) is transferred to
alternating from one side of the stem to the the ovaries of the female part (pistil) so that
other. fertilization takes place and seed develops.
Anther... The part of a flower that produces Globose. ..A ball or globe shape. In Hoyas,
pollen (the male sex cells). globose refers to the perfectly round shape of
some flower umbels.
Axil.. .The angle between a leaf or leafstalk
and the stem that carries it. Inflorescence. ..A general term for the
flowering part of a plant. Most commonly
Bigeneric.. .A reference to a hybrid plant used in reference to flowers that form in
originating from the crossing of parents from umbels or clusters.
two distinct genera.
Latex.. .A milky sap produced by many
Calyx. ..The outermost part of a flower. The plants but most notable in the Asclepiadaceae
calyx is usually green, and has a tough or milk weed family.
leathery consistency that protects the

developing flower within. Margin. ..In plants the word margin is most
often used to describe the border or edge of a

Chlorosis.. .A nutritional deficiency in plants leaf.
that results in leaves becoming sickly yellow

or white but even the tiniest veins will remain Midrib.. .The central rib of a leaf, which
green. generally projects out from the leaf surface,
runs its length, and divides it into equal halves.
Compound... Usually a reference to leaves
that are divided into two or more segments. Opposite. ..A reference to the placement of
leaves on a stem: The leaves are borne in
Corolla. ..The petals of a flower. Usually the opposite pairs along the length of the stem.
most highly decorative and colorful part of a
flower. Palmate. ..Literally "hand shaped". In
Hoyas this term is generally applied to the
Cultivar... Normally a variety of plant that prominent hand shaped vein patterns of some
has originated in cultivation rather than in the leaves, and not to the shape of the leaf itself.
wild. The names of cultivars are generally
written in modern language (not Latin), and
XXVI
Petiole. ..The leafstalk or stem by which Stomata... The microscopic breathing pores
leaves are attached to the plant. Usually on the undersides of leaves.
of plants.
pH... Literally, the hydrogen-ioh Succulent.. .Plants that have fleshy stems
concentration in soil, potting medium, water and leavesthat can function as water storing
etc. The pH scale is used as a means of receptacles.
measuring the acidity or alkalinity of any of
these substances. The scale extends from 0 Undulate. ..With wavy up-and-down
to 1 4, with pure water at a pH of 7.0 as the margins. This term is normally applied to
standard. Above 7.0 is considered alkaline, leaves, but can also be used to describe
below 7.0 is considered acid. wavy flower petals.
Pistil... The female organ of a flower, Variegated... A reference to leaves

consisting of an ovary, a stigma and a style. (sometimes flowers) that are a combination of
two or more colors in a splashed, striped or
Root ball. ..The mass of roots and potting spotted pattern.
medium that are held together when removed
from a container by millions of tiny hair roots. Variety.. .A plant that is different from the
normal type species. The reference to variety
Sessile. ..Without a stalk. A reference to as used by modern botanists, refers to
leaves or flowers that arise directly from the variations that have originated in the wild.
plant stem. However, the word is frequently applied to
variations arising in cultivation, which should
Spur.. .In Hoyas the term refers to the short technically be called cultivars. Names of true
flowering branches, or peduncles that remain varieties are correctly written in Latin and are
on the plant through several seasons and not enclosed in quotation marks.
continue to flower time after time from the
same location
XXVII

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The Hoya Handbook

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DBRARY

TMH HEW YORK BQTAKtCAC GARDEN

The Hoya Handbook

Published in the U.S.A.

All Rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,

Foliage & Flowers

Care & Culture

Rooting Water 8. .Rooting in A Solid Medium 9. .Growing from

Seeds 1 1 ..Light Requirements 1 2.. Food for your Plants

Insects & Diseases 23

Insects.. Diseases.. Outdoors

What Hoya Species are Found Where

Questions about Hoyas

Hoya Hall of Fame

114 additional Hoyas described

The Picture Gallery I

oya is a group (genus) of plants that belong to the milkweed family,

As with things in nature we cannot be dogmatic

W e could say that

Though numerous Hoyas prefer limestone ledges, outcroppings or boulders, most

over three inches across.

Lands of Discovery ««««««

vast area there are islands, valleys, mountain slopes, and

14. ANTHER appendage

»»»»»» Foliage & Flowers «««««« j

overlapping. The stem is cupped leaves under which are

Care & Culture of "The Stars"

»»»»»» Propagation ««««««

The mix should be loose enough,

Fertilizer is not a cure-all. It won’t cure a diseased plant. In fact,

"Bright indirect light" is an appropriate description of the light

mixed with yellowed, insect chewed leaves, dead

Photosynthesis requires an environment with a sufficient amount of light, warm

The secondary magnesium, and sulphur. The 7

There are many choices for the consumer. Keep

If you like own potting medium, or experimenting with

some Orchids, spend their entire lives on large

Here are a few basic rules which should always be

appealing to our desire for a natural setting.

Selecting the Site

of blossoms after a few months outside.

Along a walkway ««««««

Entries and Porches ««««««

The Patio or Terrace

Hanging Plants Indoors

for a hanging garden.

The High Wire Act ««««««

»»»»»» Insects ««««««

Although we see them quite as often as mealybug, scale is another frequent

»»»»»» Plant Names

plants came into the an attempt to communicate and

to distinguish one plant from another, man has

bell shaped flowers.

What Hoya Species Are Found Where

Sri Lanka (Ceylon)

alexicaca Moon 1824

hirsuta Moon 1824

lacuna Wight 1834

ovalifolia Wight 1834

reticulata Moon 1894

veridiflora Brown 1909

wightiana Thwaites 1864

acuminata Bentham ex Hooker f. 1 883

acuta Haworth 1821