To water Big quaking grass, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Big quaking grass is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Big quaking grass as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Big quaking grass that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Big quaking grass, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.

The remedy for underwatering Big quaking grass is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Big quaking grass is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Big quaking grass that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Big quaking grass, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.

Big quaking grass needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Big quaking grass. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Big quaking grass grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Big quaking grass that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Big quaking grass a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.

There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Big quaking grass. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Big quaking grass. Typically, you should give your Big quaking grass about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Big quaking grass in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.

It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Big quaking grass. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Big quaking grass are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Big quaking grass may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Big quaking grass as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.

You can expect your Big quaking grass’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Big quaking grass, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Big quaking grass that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Big quaking grass is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.

Big quaking grass will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Big quaking grass as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Big quaking grass will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Big quaking grass will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.

There are several reasons why most Big quaking grass grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Big quaking grass needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Big quaking grass water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.

Big quaking grass is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Big quaking grass to stay away from pathogens infection.

During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Big quaking grass above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.

Big quaking grass leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.

Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds; Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water. Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs

Expect to prune your Big quaking grass every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.

Because Big quaking grass is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.

You must expose the plants to at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily. They prefer more exposure to the morning light, especially in the summer. The Big quaking grass needs full sun and more sunlight that it can get. The more light these species get, the more they can manufacture food, produce beautiful blooms, and survive.

The Big quaking grass grows best under full sunlight. It's best not to crowd them together so they can get exposure to the sun evenly. The leaves shouldn't be starved with sunlight. If planted in pots, try to expose the herbaceous flowers in windows with direct sun and ensure they receive full sunlight regardless of the months. They don't tend to do well in partial or filtered light as this will not produce strong stems and healthy flowers. It's best if the Big quaking grass is always exposed to the sun.

When the temperature rises above 90℉(32℃), the Big quaking grass can get damaged by extreme temperatures, especially if they are exposed to many hours of sun. It's always ideal for providing some shade from the light in the afternoon in the summer. It's always important to keep in mind that the sunlight in the summer is stronger than the one in the winter. Sunlight exposure is also 50% longer in the summer than in the winter. If the Big quaking grass is too stressed with sunlight, you might want to keep them fully hydrated. Water them when the top of the soil is about 2 inches dry, and move the plants indoors if it's too hot outside. This is the case if they are planted in containers. It can be normal for the plant leaves to wilt during the day. Generally, they can recover at night. However, when you notice that the Big quaking grass is still drooping, this means that the plant is losing water fast, and you need to water them.

The Big quaking grass does not need any protection from the sun. In fact, they love the sun, and some species are heliotropic. Plant them in south-facing gardens whenever possible so they can be exposed from morning to afternoon. While the sun can benefit them, some may experience a sunburn. You might offer protection from the afternoon and midday sun through a shade of a tree or a wall. Growing the Big quaking grass in shady areas is impossible because the larger flowers would require a lot of energy to grow and produce. Always provide the lighting conditions and set them in an area with full sun for best results.

When the Big quaking grass does not get adequate sunlight, or they are not placed in full sun locations, it's worth noting that the photosynthetic process will slow down. A lack of sunlight will cause the stems to become more leggy since they become thin and long since they tend to seek too much sunlight. They will not bloom and produce seeds in the shade. Inadequate sunlight will also mean that the older leaves can die, the color of the new ones is lighter than the old foliage, and the new growth is smaller than the last ones. The Big quaking grass indeed loves the sun so much. However, they can wilt when exposed to excessive heat and ultraviolet light during the extreme summer months, so be careful. You might want to cover them with a net that has a green shade, especially in the summer, to prevent the leaves and the flowers from scorching. When they are indoors, reduce the heat with the help of a fan.

When the Big quaking grass is growing, they need more light than their mature counterparts. The younger ones should receive adequate light, but they might not be prepared for sudden full sunlight, especially if they are grown in a nursery. They can be more sensitive to the summer sun, so the lighting should be gradual and slow.

During summer or late spring, the Big quaking grass needs 6 to 8 hours of direct light every single day. This is whether they are planted outdoors. If the Big quaking grass is planted in pots or you're growing them in the winter, they need direct fluorescent lights that help them grow better. Make sure to place them in an indoor area where they are facing south or east so they can have enough sunlight for photosynthesis.

When transplanting the plants, they should not be exposed to sudden sunlight. Give the Big quaking grass to grow and mature before transplanting outside. Some species of herbaceous plants can grow taller and might cast a shade on other young plants. Allow between 80 to 100 days of growing season before planting another batch to ensure that every plant receives more than enough sunlight for at least 6 hours a day. Make sure that the Big quaking grass receives the best light possible, especially if it's planted in a nursery. These are sun-loving plants, but too much sunlight with a very hot temperature is also detrimental to their growth. Indoor lights should be replaced with natural sunlight as much as possible since these species crave this every day.

The best temperature for Big quaking grass depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Big quaking grass has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Big quaking grass may be able to survive with some help. During the warmer parts of the year, Big quaking grass will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Big quaking grass. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Big quaking grass to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!

If this is the first year of your Big quaking grass outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Big quaking grass, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Big quaking grass inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage. It’s also a good idea to plant Big quaking grass in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Big quaking grass should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.

If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Big quaking grass from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Big quaking grass in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Big quaking grass is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind. For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Big quaking grass to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.

During the cold winter months, Big quaking grass needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Big quaking grass, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine. An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Big quaking grass. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Big quaking grass will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.

All plants need nutrients to grow, but some types are able to take what they need and don’t need any supplementation with fertilizers. Big quaking grass, like other plants, use nutrients to support growth and all internal processes. Each of the main nutrients that plants use (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) contribute to one or more of a plant’s essential functions, and in the case of foliage it is nitrogen that provides the most support. It can be difficult for a Big quaking grass to get enough nitrogen from the soil, which is why many gardeners prefer to supplement by feeding Big quaking grass with a source of nitrogen.

Big quaking grass generally grows well, but a fertilizer can be applied about once a month to give the plant a boost when it is actively growing. You should fertilize Big quaking grass about once a month only during the spring and summer months, but not during fall and winter when it becomes less active and does not use as many nutrients. You’ll know when to start fertilizing Big quaking grass if you see signs of new growth. The fertilization schedule remains the same whether the plant is grown outside or indoors in a container. However, if your Big quaking grass is in a container, you probably will not need to fertilize for the first one to two months. Potting soil made for container plants already contains plenty of nutrients, so you should only start to fertilize after your plant has been in the same soil for a while.

Never fertilize your Big quaking grass if it is not healthy, for example if it has developed a disease or has insect pests on it. Also do not fertilize a dehydrated plant, since the fertilizer will make this problem even worse. Only fertilize healthy plants. Do not splash fertilizer onto the leaves or stem of this plant when watering, since it can cause burned spots. Be careful not to allow the fertilizer to make direct contact with the plant, unless you are usually a special fertilizer designed to be applied to the foliage.

Fertilizers contain high levels of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, along with other essential nutrients such as iron, manganese and zinc. These are all necessary elements that promote growth in Big quaking grass. A balanced fertilizer works well for Big quaking grass, for example an all-purpose fertilizer with a 10-10-10 NPK number. For natural fertilizers, blood meal or worm castings work well. You may also choose a fertilizer that is higher in nitrogen than other nutrients, such as fish fertilizer. Nitrogen provides support to leaves, which are the main feature that people want from Big quaking grass. There is no point in providing a lot of supplements for flowers or seeds if that is not your purpose in growing the plant.

Apply fertilizer based on the instructions on the particular type you have purchased. It is generally a good idea to start with half-strength fertilizer to avoid accidentally over-fertilizing your Big quaking grass. Since this plant requires frequent fertilization, it is common to accidentally fertilize too much. Remember that it’s always easier to add more fertilizer than it is to try to save an over-fertilized plant. Don’t apply fertilizer to dry soil - it should already be at least somewhat moist before fertilizing. This helps the fertilizer absorb more easily and helps avoid fertilizer burn. You should also water after applying dry fertilizers to your soil. Some fertilizers are meant to be mixed into the soil when planting, while others are applied on top of the soil and then watered in. For most types of Big quaking grass, a water soluble fertilizer is an easy choice. Simply mix the fertilizer solution into your watering can at the recommended dosage for Big quaking grass and then water the plant as usual. Slow-release granules or fertilizer spikes can also work well if you prefer not to remember to fertilize monthly.

Over-fertilization leads to a build-up of salts in the soil which leads to a lack of vitality overall and pale coloration in the leaves. Leaves may also wilt or develop brown tips as the excess salt from the fertilizer tries to make its way out of the leaves. Too much fertilizer makes it impossible for the plant to take up water and nutrients, which will eventually kill it if you don’t take steps to save your Big quaking grass. If the Big quaking grass is in a container, you could either remove it from the pot and repot it in fresh potting mix, or flush out the soil by running a lot of water through and letting it drain out thoroughly. If your Big quaking grass is outdoors, the same theory applies, although it can be more difficult to flush outdoor soil. Water thoroughly and hold off on fertilizing again for a while. You may want to perform a soil test before you add any more fertilizer to make sure you don’t provide too much of any one nutrient.