Don’t go to Iceland in search of the Northern Lights. As far as travel tips go, this advice could not be more incongruous with the destination in question – a country known for being one of the best places in the world to catch a glimpse of the mystical aurora. But when so much of the appeal lies in their elusive nature, putting too much pressure on a sighting could prove counterproductive.
A laissez-faire attitude is no bad thing when there are so many other reasons to visit this other-worldly land mass. From the bars, restaurants and underground music venues of Reykjavik to the stark beauty of the Icelandic wilderness, there is more to the country than a green-hued night sky. The capital city makes for a perfect base but, even on a short trip, that aforementioned wilderness should not go unexplored. In the depths of winter the snow on the black volcanic rock creates an homage to monochrome you are unlikely to find anywhere else on earth. Twinned with Reykjavik’s eccentric urban vibe and experimental take on local cuisine and you have yourself a long weekend you won’t forget in a hurry – northern lights or not.
Where to stay
There is nothing like a penthouse to make you feel like you are going up in the world. In the case of the Tower Suites Reykjavik, up is the operative word. Perched on the top floor of the second highest building in the city, the eight suites have unbroken views over Reykjavik in one direction and the ice-blue Faxa Bay fjord in the other. And things are no less spectacular on the other side of the floor to ceiling wraparound windows. The contrast between the oak, herringbone parquet floors and the white free standing bath and cloud-like bed – both positioned looking out over that aforementioned view of the fjord - mirrors the black and white of the distinctive Icelandic landscape. Suite-wide surround sound, a telescope and a wine fridge kick the luxury up a gear and access to a self-service bar lounge, complete with a 20-bottle strong whiskey wagon, makes for the perfect pre-dinner cocktail spot. Breakfast can either be served in the lounge or your room and is something to behold. Pesto, avocado and poached egg on seeded toast, Icelandic skyr and granola pots, warm ham and cheese stuffed croissants, a fresh fruit platter…the list goes on. The perfect start to a day of exploration. Prices via Small Luxury hotels of the world start from £778 per night including breakfast www.slh.com/towersuites
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A cross between a sprawling ski lodge and an old western saloon bar, the unusual aesthetic and remote location of Hotel Ranga in the south of the country ensures ensures it is as weird as it is wonderful. The rooms here, chalet-esque and cosy, are simple and straightforward but the real draw is the food. It will set you back more than a few pounds but if you can get over that it really is worth it thanks to a young, ambitious and exceptionally talented chef. The chicken and the langoustine are the stand-out dishes and in terms of local delicacies, the reindeer carpaccio and smoked puffin are a must-try. The fermented shark is not. Best of all, if you are going to see the northern lights anywhere, you will see them here. An on-call astronomer is even on hand to make a mad dash out to the hotel’s observatory if the aurora make an appearance and guests can sign up for a wake-up call to ensure they don’t miss out. Prices via Small Luxury Hotels of the World start from £280 per night www.slh.com/ranga
Where to eat
Eating out in Reykjavik is not for the faint hearted. That is if you want to do it properly. Many of the city’s most popular restaurants pride themselves on their traditional menus. Matur og Drykker is a prime example. Located in an old salt fish factory, the vibe here is Icelandic fare with a modern twist. Dried fish flakes, lamb’s testicle and blowtorched cod’s head - served whole with a side order of tempura cod’s tongue – might not be for everyone. But a wider menu of light, local dishes including barley risotto, pickled vegetables with kale crisps and cinnamon doughnuts makes it more accessible for those looking to play it safe.
The newly opened restaurant at Sandhotel is on the more conventional side of experimental. Go for the beef tartare followed by the exceptional black cod dish - tied together with some bold organic wine pairings.
Where to visit
The thought of cramming a road trip into a three-day trip might fill you with dread, but it shouldn’t. And needn’t. Just think of it as packaging up a selection of day trips and doing them all in one go. With the right car (a 4x4 is a must in the depths of winter) and the right attitude (“I can’t see three-feet ahead of me down this road, do you think that’s OK? I think that’s probably OK”) the chances of it not becoming a trip highlight are minimal. There is no way you will be able to do it all so pick your route and make sure it is manageable in the timeframe. There is the classic Golden Circle drive which will get you to all the big sights but if you want to be a bit more adventurous there are plenty of alternatives. One option is to head south down to the eerily stunning Reynisfjara black sand beach near Vik. It is easy enough to include some key stop offs including the Geysir geothermal eruptions and the spectacular Gulfoss and Skogarfoss waterfalls. When it comes to the latter in particular, watch your step. Iceland by name and by nature, it sounds obvious but it is easier than one might think to skid heart-stoppingly close to the edge.
British Airways flies daily from London Heathrow to Reykjavik (Keflavik) from £193. ba.com
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