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Only an hour and a half train ride from Paris is the capital of Burgundy: Dijon. The historic city is witnessing a major culinary renaissance and growing beyond its eponymous table condiment. Much more petite than Paris, with a population of roughly 150,000, most of Dijon’s action is in its car-free and pedestrian-friendly city center—which means you can eat and drink local delicacies, then do plenty of walking and sightseeing to make room for more gastronomic delights.
There’s also plenty to please the eye in Dijon: As a former headquarters of the most powerful courts in Europe and one of the only French cities spared from World War II bombings, Dijon is an ancient architectural wonderland of palaces, cathedrals, and mansions from the Renaissance and Medieval ages. Almost every museum in the mustard capital is free, even Musée des Beaux-Arts—France’s second largest museum after the Louvre. Whether you tack on a few days after the City of Lights or take it easy with a Burgundy-based holiday, Dijon aims to delight all five senses.
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The best things to do in Dijon, France
Legend has it, an owl once saved the townspeople from a fiery fate, which is why Dijon has sacred strigiformes depicted all over town. For example, Église Notre-Dame, a 13th-century Gothic church in the city center, has an owl carved into the facade that grants your wish when you rub it. (Just make sure you use your left hand.) Le Parcours de la Chouette—a 22-stop self-guided tour marked with googly-eyed owl bronze emblems beneath your feet—offers a streamlined overview of Dijon’s most impressive sites. Perhaps by no coincidence, the best croissants and adorable owl-shaped pastries are at Aux Delices de la Chouette (the delights of the owl), next to Église Notre-Dame.
Speaking of sampling local delights, take a mustard-making class, explore the pain d’'epices (gingerbread) museum or tour a cassis—blackcurrant liqueur—distillery. To experience all three—plus a wine tasting after a heart-pumping, 316-stair huff to the top of Tour Philippe le Bon—book The Treats of Dijon excursion on France’s new food trail, La Vallée De La Gastronomie, that runs from Marseille to Dijon.
Hands down, the ultimate draw for foodies is the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin, which houses an interactive museum, a cooking school, two restaurants, retail shops, and, as of next year, a new hotel. “No matter how many times you visit,” says Thomas Demurs, head of Dijon Tourism, “there’s always something new to do at the City of Gastronomy and Wine.” For instance, you can learn to make the Burgundian specialty oeufs en meurette at the prestigious Ferrandi cooking school, test your skills at the Iron Chef-style video game, splurge on glorious French-made kitchenware for souvenirs, toast with a tipple at the rooftop experimental bar, choose from over 250 wines on tap to sample, feast your eyes on giant pastry sculptures (a kid-approved exhibit!), and so much more.
When your soul is filled with stately architecture, duc de Bourgogne dramatic history, and culinary culture, you might be pining for some countryside vineyard vistas. Hop on a 17-minute train ride to Nuits-Saint-Georges, a village in the Côte de Nuits wine region known for Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Roughly a 15-minute walk from the station are two wineries with dramatic new additions: Louis-Bouillot, specializing in cremant (delicious bubbly made just like Champagne, just not in the Champagne wine region), pours a flight of five to 10 sparkling wines in a renovated Art Nouveau greenhouse; and Domaine Faiveley has a new fermentation room that looks like a cathedral-meets-train station. Or, keep travel simple with a Marsannay vineyard tour and tasting that leaves from the City of Gastronomy. The workout to the top of Phillip the Good’s tower is worth it for 360-degrees views of Dijon and, bien sur, a cool selfie backdrop.
Where to eat in Dijon
A big reason we travel is getting up in people’s business—not in an obnoxious way, but to really understand how others navigate this thing called life. That’s why we adore this ‘secret’ restaurant inside a private home. Le Chat Qui Pense offers an exquisite three-course lunch by Madame Sonnet and served via her husband, with occasional entertainment compliments of the couple’s cat. A wallet-friendly favorite is La Menuiserie, the hip, Friends-feel café run by a young, passionate crew. Standouts include the giant muffins in the morning, pâté en croûte (meat pie) for lunch—chef Nicholas De Linage plays on this old-fashioned French classic with wildly imaginative ingredients; ham and octopus, anyone?—and tapas for dinner.
No doubt, Paris and Lyon are rockstars for restaurants with mind-bending marathon dinners by award-winning chefs. Yet, Dijon doesn’t disappoint in this category: the two-Michelin-starred restaurant William Frachot is not to be missed, nor is chef Angelo Ferrigno’s CIBO. Run by France’s youngest Michelin-starred chef (at only 22 years old; “The guy’s on another level of cooking, like a true savant,” explains chef De Linage), this fine-dining restaurant rolls out 30 courses, each building on the previous dish, to create a masterful symphony of flavors that will leave you blissed out, perhaps even in tears of awe—no dramatic hyperbole here—by such gastronomic genius.
Other cool new restaurants to check out in Dijon include: Le Malto, run by a mom-and-son duo featuring haute cuisine; Monique, a farm-to-table bistro by chef Clara Reydet (female-led kitchens are still pretty rare in France); and Origine by Japanese chef Tomofumi Uchimura, who trained under some of the country’s most notable chefs and was recently awarded a Michelin star of his own, too.
After dinner, a bar crawl calls to get a taste of Dijon’s hopping craft cocktail scene. Start out at the OG of chic watering holes, Monsieur Moutarde. Inside this former private home, the vibe is trop cool with a themed cocktail menu designed by head barman Colin Lach. Next, check out La Gobeleterie, a new bar that opened in June 2022 and often features guest cocktail makers for festive themed evenings. End the night with Polynesian-themed flair at L’Archipel. Order the Green Dream, a gin cucumber drink in an owl-shaped mug, and marvel at the fact you’re at one of the only legit tiki bars in all of France.
Do as the locals do and grab an outdoor table just before sunset at Le Pre aux Clercs on Liberation Plaza for classic Burgundian faire. The looming Palace of the Dukes contrasted by the dancing fountain light show is a spectacular scene to capture.
Where to stay
Like buying real estate, the one rule of thumb when choosing the best hotel in Dijon is… location, location, location. Yes, the public tram is inexpensive and easy to use, but stay within the city center to maximize your time. Rest assured; these hotels will plunk in you in the heart of the action.
Opened in February 2022 in a renovated 19th-century home by young couple, Eve and Sebastian Lamy, Hotel Du Palais offers nine modern rooms. Every room’s look is unique, themed after regional specialties, like Pinot Noir or anise. Their Burgundian wine tasting classes are not only fun, but also downright sexy—the hotel’s wine cave looks like Batman’s lair. Due to the owners’ stellar hospitality, reasonable rates, and stone’s throw-proximity to Place de la Liberation, you’ll need to book your room early.
Seeking a stylish scene? Until Mama Shelter Dijon opens later in 2023, Vertigo Hotel is where the cool kids hang. Rooms with avant-garde interiors and Missoni bathroom amenities, a hammam complete with disco balls, and a buzzy cocktail bar with weekend DJs are just a few of the perks. The hotel’s windows light up like a string of multi-colored Christmas lights for festive feels, year-around. And if you’re taking a day trip to Burgundy’s Route des Grands Crus, Vertigo offers guests complimentary electric BMW cars to use—first come, first served.
Look for the ruby red door and get ready to be ushered through the courtyard lined with pink flowering trees like it’s your very own 17th-century château. La Cour Berbisey, a five-room bed-and-breakfast, is romantic with kingly decor, soft bed linens, a peaceful vibe, and a gorgeous indoor pool.
