I’ve always thought of myself as traditional. I’ll be the first to admit, in my personal life, I am not an “early adopter”. For example, I finally started feeling comfortable using my iPod right about the time that Apple decided to begin discontinuing them. I find comfort in the familiar and have turned into a bit of a curmudgeon when it comes to trying something new.

However, the agriculture industry was all shaken up by last year's introduction of the Cosmic Crisp apple. I sat up and took notice, mainly because I love Honeycrisp apples but think they are expensive and difficult to find. I like this variety so much that a few years back, I did some research on them. It turns out that Honeycrisp are difficult for an orchardist to cultivate and ship to stores. Not just a little difficult… really strenuous. It only wants to bear fruit every other year. Because of its thin skin, about 35-40% of the harvest is damaged and cannot be sold. And on top of that, the labor to harvest is increased through preventative measures to carefully pack to prevent damage in shipping. The final straw is that cold storage is difficult and generally only viable for 9 months.

So, what does all this mean for apple producers? A whole lot of hassle on a consumer favorite apple that just keeps growing in popularity.

Enter the Cosmic Crisp. Bred for superior taste, appearance, shelf life and disease resistance, this variety took the things that made other apples difficult to sell or produce and tried to solve them. It seems they have succeeded. Taste tests with consumers have gone well and cold storage tests have gone even better with more than a year of storage capacity.

My status as an early adopter might have to change, because I tried Cosmic Crisp the first season they arrived in grocery stores, last fall. I’m such a fan that I’ve been looking for them ever since. Unfortunately, quantities are limited and more expensive. So, I really didn’t solve my Honeycrisp riddle, merely moved it to a new focus. However, I have hope that the Cosmic Crisp will improve in both availability and price, since they are not facing the same production issues that the Honeycrisp are still struggling to overcome.

In our industry, we see hundreds of new plants come onto the market every year. Breeders are striving to improve the flaws in each genus. Are they succeeding? Yes. How do we know? We’re “taste-testing” them individually and watching what the experts at University trials are reporting. Your team here at Christensen’s does their research on all the plants we offer. We’re happy to point you towards the best options for your installation.

With the amazing number of bulb varieties in the world it is always a difficult task to decide what to order for our shelves each season, which is why we encourage you to order ahead of time (now) if you want something in particular.

We get 80% of our bulbs from the same vendor and have been doing business with them for over 30 years. We continue this relationship because they can provide the best quality and size bulbs. People always ask if size matters, and the answer is YES!  The bigger the bulb, the older the bulb. It is like buying an already established plant in a little package. You get a stronger plant with lots of blooms and instant display. The plants themselves are also more robust, producing more bulblets for more flowers!

All bulb packages show the bulb size, which is measured in centimeters and references the girth of the bulb at the widest point. When we say a bulb is “top size” that means you are getting bulbs at the high end of the range and you will see that reflected in the garden next season. Your customer will expect a nice display, but how about giving the unexpected - a grand display!

As you will notice on the bulb mailer we sent out recently, many of our varieties are tried and true and have earned their place as staples. Start with the Emperor tulips, with their large flowers, many colors, and sturdy stems. Another classic choice are Darwin Hybrid tulips. Blooming a little later than the Emperors, they also have strong stems, lots of colors, and are known to perennialize, which can maximize their potential. The dark plum ‘Negrita’ Triumph tulip is another show-stopper - pair it with a pink like ‘The Cure’ or ‘Pink Impression’ and wow!

If you are a narcissus fan, you can’t go wrong with ‘Dutch Master’ (yellow), or ‘Mount Hood’ (white). But you can certainly mix it up a little by choosing other varieties in different heights and colors to add some kick or longevity. The white and yellow ‘Ice Follies’ is a gorgeous traditional narcissus that can naturalize and withstands cold, wet spring weather.

Everyone must have a giant Allium, of course! Some people look at them as niche, others think of them as truly great performers. Bulbous Alliums require a little patience. They do not look like the picture on day one, but oh… give them time and they will stand up straight at 3’ with massive purple globes.

Don’t overlook the minor bulbs - not very tall but they get a lot of attention as they are our first look at spring. Many of them naturalize and you haven’t lived until you’ve seen a great sea of blue scilla carpeting the flowerbeds. Crocus large and small, Chionodoxa, Iris, Muscari and the short early narcissus like ‘Tete-a-Tete’ prove themselves year after year.

If you’re not installing bulbs in your designs, it’s time you did - take your client’s landscapes from wow to POW!

Earlier in life I enjoyed a lack of sensitivity to our old friend, poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans). The allergic reaction to this plant can wax and wane throughout one's life, but most of us start out allergic and stay allergic, with the effects growing worse with each exposure. I had a friend that even got it in the winter, but I never did. Part of it was that I quickly learned to recognize it even at a distance, especially after noticing the resemblance to Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica), a safe-to-handle ornamental native shrub. Check out this website here for some examples.

However. A few years ago (OK, it was 15) I was surprised by a nasty case that required a course of steroids to get rid of. Maybe doing that woodland cleanup on a humid day wasn't such a good idea? Now I dedicate myself to avoiding poison ivy at all costs. I didn't encounter too much of it in my suburban garden but out here in my country garden holy heck it is everywhere. The tricky part is to not only look for those "leaves of three" but those tell-tale rooty vines clambering up tree trunks, with no foliage at eye-level where you stand a chance of noticing it, until popping great big leaves in the canopy, blending in with your hardwoods. Don't lean on any tree trunks!

A major issue is that poison ivy foliage is extremely variable. The three-leaf thing is definitely an ID point, but the darn leaves can be notched or smooth, matte or a bit shiny. The one thing that seems constant is it's exceptional vigor - it looks green and healthy all season until it bursts into glorious fall color. And while poision ivy is usually seen as a vine or groundcover, it can get quite woody and shrublike with age.

Another thing that confuses people is that there are OTHER vining plants found in the same habitat. Can you reliably tell wild grape and woodbine (parthenocissus) from poision ivy? Another fooler - baby boxelder seedlings. Even I sometimes glove up to pull one, just to be on the safe side. But I will tell you, if you see white berries on a vine, you are looking at poison ivy. Incidentally those berries are a valued food for plenty of wildlife which helps explain why it comes up everywhere.

In other (unwelcome) news, climate change is is making poison ivy both more virulent and allergenic. Ugh. Climate change is making poison ivy stronger and itchier

To remove it one must either pull it or use Roundup (glyphosate). Sever the vines that are climbing your shade trees, treat the fresh-cut stump, and spray any regrowth that occurs. Forget those "organic" salt and vinegar recipes, it's just going to re-sprout, and salting the soil is undesirable. And you must never, ever burn it as the smoke is toxic. Goats eat it, so you could see about renting a herd of them to clean up your acre, like the City of Ann Arbor does. Keep a bottle of Technu by the sink, and in your work truck or garden tool bag for fast treatment if you think you've been exposed and you might save yourself a trip to the doctor for a steroid pack.

If you’ve ever spent any time in the Sonoran Desert, shade is a huge commodity, and there aren't a lot of shade trees. Fortunately there is a fast growing member of the legume family that is native to that desert and does provide shade with it’s 25’ x 25’ multi stemmed canopy, and it is used extensively in the Phoenix area as a landscape and street tree. It is the Palo Verde.

This tree not only provides the important function of providing shade, it is quite beautiful.  Palo Verde roughly translates to ‘green stick’ or ‘green pole’. This is because the trunk and branches are green, and there is a fascinating reason for this.

The tree is full of small leaves that will drop during cold weather or drought. The Palo Verde’s trunk and branches are green because they contain chlorophyll and allow the tree to survive tough times by continuing to be able to photosynthesize without its leaves.

The tree has another beautiful feature which is the mid-spring emergence of yellow flowers all throughout the canopy. This bloom can also occur during unexpected summer rain events. And the tree supplies seed pods which are a source of food for many native animal species.

A good location in the landscape for this tree is a patch of sandy/gravelly, well drained soil in full sun. It is recommended to prune the tree often when young to develop the ability to walk or sit under it, though you should make sure to prune in warm weather as pruning in cold weather is damaging to the plant. Newly planted and young trees benefit from supplemental watering to help get them established. Continued supplemental watering once established will encourage faster growth and a thicker canopy, but this practice will shorten the life of the tree which on rare occasions can reach the century mark.

Despite how common this plant is in Arizona landscapes, there is a good reason for it and the commonness did not diminish the beauty of this plant for me. I would probably cultivate several of these trees for their shade with brief forays into the blistering sun to visit my agave before running back to the protection of their canopy where there would be some delicious ‘prickly pear’ lemonade or iced tea waiting for me. I wonder if there are understory plants that grow in the desert...?

Genetically modified foods have gotten quite a bad rap in the past few years, something I attribute to both a lack of knowledge and a multi million-dollar marketing campaign by the Non-GMO Project. That innocent looking butterfly that’s seemingly plastered on everything from salt to bread is an enormous spreader of misinformation. To begin with, salt does not have any genes to modify so a “Non-GMO” label is a bit misleading! I’ll try to dispel some of the more outlandish claims here.

Claim #1: Genetically modified produce is not as healthy as produce that is grown organically.

FALSE. There has been zero correlation between Genetic Modification and the health of food. Foods that have been genetically modified actually have a much more extensive testing and trialing process than traditionally grown foods. Biofortification can also result in a crop that has more nutrients than those that are traditionally grown. Ex. Golden Rice. (a)

Claim #2: Genetically Modified Crops are more expensive to cultivate.

FALSE. While it is true that there is a slightly higher price up front, “the economic advantages associated with insecticide savings and higher effective yields more than outweigh the technology fee charged on GM seeds.” (b)

Claim #3: The use of genetically modified crops only benefits large corporations.

FALSE. Globally, most genetically modified crops are grown by subsistence and small batch farmers solely for the purpose of providing for their families and the surrounding community. The recently approved GMO Cassava plant in Kenya produces a root with about 10 times more carbohydrates than the average cereal. It can also be grown in marginal and drought prone areas which account for about 80% of the land in Kenya. (c)

Claim #4: Genetically Modified crops use fewer pesticides.

TRUE. Most crops that have been genetically modified have actually been modified to be more resistant to diseases and pests. For example, with Genetically Modified corn, scientists engineered it to contain a gene that excretes a protein to kill invading pests such as the corn borer, thus eliminating the need to be sprayed with an insecticide (d).

(a) Ingo Potrykus, Lessons from the ‘Humanitarian Golden Rice’ project: regulation prevents development of public good genetically engineered crop products, New Biotechnology, Volume 27, Issue 5, 2010, Pages 466-472, ISSN 1871-6784 

(b) The Economics of Genetically Modified Crops, Annual Review of Resource Economics, Vol. 1:665-694 (Volume publication date 2009) First published online as a Review in Advance on June 26, 2009

(c) Kenya approves disease-resistant GMO cassava

(d) Gewin V (2003) Genetically Modified Corn— Environmental Benefits and Risks. PLOS Biology

Early this spring I had the privilege of visiting the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix, Arizona, where I had my eyes opened to how many different varieties of agave there are. They reminded me of hostas back home.  Agave: loves dry heat and sun. Hosta: prefers shade and cooler temps. They are culturally opposite but have some things in common as a landscape plant. (For our Southwestern friends who think hosta is the agave of the Midwest... write your own article.)

They are both easy to care for, though agave may have an edge in that area. They do resemble each other somewhat and are both grown mainly for the look of their foliage. This foliage comes in all shapes, sizes and colors. Over 250 different varieties of agave are out there. Hostas on the other hand top 3000! Hostas come with many variations of the colors blue, green, gold, and white, with many combining these colors in variegated foliage. Agave have a similar palette, but also include some purple and pink and come in variegated varieties as well. When it comes to diversity of shape and textures, agave certainly seems to have the upper hand. Some varieties of agave reach sizes a hosta could only dream of.

The largest agave is Agave atrovirens. It can weigh a total of 2 metric tonnes. Each leaf can be over 14 feet long and weigh over one hundred pounds, and the flower stalk can grow over 40 feet tall. This may not be suitable as a landscape plant, but the Blue American is a gorgeous large landscape plant at 4-6 feet tall and 8-10 feet wide. These, along with other large varieties, can make the largest hosta feel inadequate. Leaves on agave can be wide or narrow, short or long, tightly packed or loose and open. The more you research the more amazed you become with the sheer variety

If I lived in more arid regions, I might miss certain plants, like hostas, but I could see myself joining the ranks of other obsessed agave collectors. Going to agave swaps across the southwest, scouring the internet for more varieties, drunk on my own home made mezcal. Deeper into the rabbit hole I would go, dabbling in cactus and succulents until I’m hooked on them as well. It wouldn't be long until I was involved in shady back alley deals trying to get my hands on the rarest varieties.

There would be an intervention most likely... to no avail.

 All photographs copyright David E. Baker.

…by planting native varieties and native cultivars.

Have you ever taken a moment to really appreciate our natural surroundings? Immersed as we are in smartphones and technology, I think we tend to forget to do this. I am often guilty myself, but I do enjoy walking through parks and woods and seeing the different oaks, maples, and other native species.

Our growing population has created a high demand for roads, parking lots, businesses, and housing. That land that was stripped to make room for a development contained its own habitat and ecosystem. Planting more native plants and native cultivars is a step to rebalancing the habitat that was lost.

What is a native plant?

This is a complicated question with much debate. Some believe it means plants that are untouched by man and naturally growing in the wild. You’ll encounter discussion on exactly where that “wild” needs to be to qualify as “native” for your particular project. Then there are native cultivars or “nativars”, which are selected, named varieties of native plants, with some improvement such as a more colorful bloom, nicer habit, or better disease resistance. It can be easier to source nativars than the original species, too as some plants do not lend themselves well to nursery production. You'll want to determine what the differences are from the original wild version to see if the improved one works in your particular project.

Benefits of planting more natives and nativars

• Once established they require very low maintenance.
• Often require less water.
• Attract and support native wildlife such as birds, butterflies, pollinators and more.
• Native plants help you use less fertilizers and pesticides.
• Already adapted to local climate conditions.

It is always a good idea to plant multiple different species and not all one variety. Doing this may prevent catastrophic loss in case a new disease or insect outbreak occurs, like the ongoing Emerald Ash Borer, Dogwood anthracnose, Boxwood blight, or Oak wilt situations.

Fun fact: A native oak tree supports over 500 species of caterpillar compared to the non-native ginkgo which supports only 5. Plant some oak, the songbirds will thank you. (Research by entomologist Doug Tallamy)

There are choices to make in any landscaping project. The microclimate can provide a place to start, then the considerations of general design and how much maintenance are one is willing to carry out, site traffic and usage, etc. Within the framework of your plans there are opportunities to go beyond visual enjoyment - your clients could actually taste the fruits of your labor!

Let’s begin by considering some plants that are readily available, or may already be in your design toolbox.

Aronia (Black chokeberry) is popular in Michigan landscapes. The white spring flowers turn into loads of nearly black berries which are eagerly eaten by birds. I encourage you to pick some for yourself - they may be exceedingly tart, but are tasty when added to sugary lemonade or made into jam. Consider Aronia m. ‘Viking’. Aside from the outstanding fall color, it's berries may be eaten right off the branch for an invigorating antioxidant-rich wallop to your tastebuds.

Agastache (Hyssop) is a perennial with aromatic leaves and flowers. There are blue-purple varieties and some newer cultivars in pink, coral, yellow or orange. Mix bruised leaves into tea for an alluring licorice flavor. Some varieties sway towards a mint flavor profile that I’ve enjoyed smashed into vanilla ice cream. Hyssop flowers make an enticing garnish in summer drinks.

Do you have dandelions in your lawn? Besides feeding honeybees, dandelions are a versatile culinary bonanza! Not only are the leaves an excellent salad green, but the flowers are edible, as well as the roots. Young flower petals have a honey-like flavor good in tea and jam, and the entire flower head may be sauteed in butter with garlic and eaten with a little salt on toast. Dandelion roots may be dried and brewed into a medicinal tea with many benefits.

Whenever discussing eating self-harvested plants safety must be mentioned. Always consider the plant and it’s surroundings. Pesticides, fertilizers, and any other runoff from the surrounding area will make it’s way onto and into the plants. Only consume a plant that you have properly identified and be sure to know the areas exposure to potential toxins.

If there is any doubt, do not consume it! 

These are some of my favorite edible landscape plants:

• Borage - Annual herb with star-shaped edible blue flowers.
• Daylily - Unopened flower buds can be eaten raw or cooked.
• Pansy - The flowers are often used as a salad or dessert garnish.
• Fruit trees and shrubs - Blueberries, apples, cherries, peaches, pears, etc.
• Honeyberry - (Lonicera caerulea) Large blue-black berries, used like blueberries.
• Lavender - Aromatic flowers and foliage with countless uses.

Perhaps the following recipe will inspire a patio conversation this summer.

Dandelion Wine

Boil 1 quart of rinsed dandelion flower petals in 1 gallon of water for 4 minutes, strain out and discard the petals. Allow the water to cool to under 100°f. Stir in 1 sliced orange, 1 sliced lemon, 8 cups of sugar (or 7 cups of honey), and 1 package of wine yeast and pour into sanitized plastic vessel, ideally fitted with a fermentation lock, but a towel and loose-fitted bucket lid will work. After 2 weeks decant or siphon into a secondary vessel or bottles and allow to age for at least 1 more week. Garnish with a freshly picked flower from your yard and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

If there is one plant every landscape should have, it is the peony. This handsome perennial is long lived and easy to grow, given a site with at least half a day of sun and decently well-draining soil. They are stunning focal points in mixed beds, or as the backbone of a perennial border, and belong in any style of garden from farmhouse to contemporary. Once I saw a row of peonies in full bloom running up a long driveway. I almost went off the road. The hard part is choosing which ones to plant. 

Peonies come in three types. The first, and earliest to bloom, are the woody-stemmed tree peonies (P. suffruticosa). The second are the fully herbaceous garden peonies (P. lactiflora, officinalis, and others), and the third are the intersectional peonies that are basically a cross between the two. Today's post is about the garden peony, the best known and easiest to find.

Let's dive in! Peonies have been cultivated for thousand of years and that means there are thousands of cultivars to choose from. Colors range from the purest bright white, to ivory, coral, pink - allllll the shades of pink - into fuchsia and finally, red. No matter which colors you choose, they all go together, so feel free to mix it up. The proper planting depth is key to getting flowers, so be sure to get those eyes no more than 1.5 - 2" deep. 

Peonies also come in a variety of different flower forms. My favorites are the wide open Single and Japanese forms, with bright showy centers, followed by the Anemone type that have a contrasting center fringed by wide petals. Other forms are Double, Semi-double, and Bomb. Many cultivars are fragrant, too. The earliest blooming ones kick off the season in mid-May, and by planting different cultivars you can go until late June. 

You may have heard that peonies, once planted, do not like to be moved. It is true that they are happy to stay in your garden for decades, but they can be transplanted successfully if you - like me - decide to move and can't bear to leave them behind. I've had my 'Sea Shell' peony for a good thirty years and she's doing great in her new garden.

Here in SE lower Michigan we have an amazing resource in the Nichols Arboretum Peony Garden (Ann Arbor), which has a massive collection of herbaceous peony, many of which are heirloom varieties. It has to be seen to be believed! Admission is free and the prime time to visit begins around Memorial Day weekend. You'll come away with a burning desire to plant peonies everywhere you can get a shovel in the ground.

• Nichols Arboretum Peony Collection Website
• American Peony Society - Herbaceous Peonies
• Peony Flower Types - American Peony Society (PDF)

All good things in life come from a bulb, isn't that how the saying goes? Okay, maybe not, but that is certainly true with Lilium! Planted in the spring (or fall), and returning every year, lily bulbs come in many different colors, and sometimes have a speckled or brush stroke pattern.

Lilium (Garden lilies) begin blooming in late spring, beginning with the Asiatic hybrids, and the distinctive fragrance of Oriental lilies on a summer breeze is sheer delight. With a little planning one can have lily in bloom for much of the season.

At Christensen’s Plant Center, we carry many lilies. One favorite is the Asiatic hybrid ‘Matrix’. This dwarf variety will only get 16” tall, and is a vibrant red with an orange brush mark in the center. We also carry tried-and-true Oriental Lily ‘Casa Blanca’ which gets 3-4’ tall. The highly fragrant pure white blooms are perfect for a classic look.

This year, we’re excited to offer three new Lilium combination pots. We’re loving the Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Patio Sunrise Combo’ featuring yellow, pink, and orange dwarf varieties (14-16”). This will give you a fun mix that is perfect for a patio planter or cut flower bouquet.

The second is Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Bloom Extensions™ Orange’. Lily flowers, though stunning, are usually short lived, but with Bloom Extensions™, you could get over 6 weeks of color. Two orange-flowering varieties, carefully selected to harmonize, have been potted together. The flowering times are offset, giving a seamless show of color. This is a great way to extend the display in your client’s landscape. This is an ultra dwarf combo reaching only 12-14”.

The third is Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Bloom Extensions™ ‘Red & Yellow’. This stunning pairing of the yellow and red-speckled ‘Tiny Nugget’ (early, 14”) and the deep red ‘Tiny Rocket’ (later, 16”) is a real showstopper.

All the Lily Looks™ varieties have been selected for massive flower production, a short, compact habit, and suitability for container growing. Quantities are limited, and the grower has sold out - don't miss these! 

Whether you are looking for something unique or classic, our selection of Lilium has just what you are looking for.