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Sweet: Desserts from London's Ottolenghi [A Baking Book] Hardcover – October 3, 2017
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Yotam Ottolenghi is widely beloved in the food world for his beautiful, inspirational, and award-winning cookbooks, as well as his London delis and fine dining restaurant. And while he's known for his savory and vegetarian dishes, he actually started out his cooking career as a pastry chef. Sweet is entirely filled with delicious baked goods, desserts, and confections starring Ottolenghi's signature flavor profiles and ingredients including fig, rose petal, saffron, orange blossom, star anise, pistachio, almond, cardamom, and cinnamon. A baker's dream, Sweet features simple treats such as Chocolate, Banana, and Pecan cookies and Rosemary Olive Oil Orange Cake, alongside recipes for showstopping confections such as Cinnamon Pavlova with Praline Cream and Fresh Figs and Flourless Chocolate Layer Cake with Coffee, Walnut, and Rosewater.
• Finalist for the 2018 James Beard Foundation Book Awards for "Baking and Desserts" and "Photography" categories
• Finalist for the 2018 International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) Cookbook Award for "Baking" category
- Print length368 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherTen Speed Press
- Publication dateOctober 3, 2017
- Dimensions7.94 x 1.21 x 10.89 inches
- ISBN-101607749149
- ISBN-13978-1607749141
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From the Publisher
Chocolate 'O' cookies
Makes 22 (if using a 2½-inch/6.5-cm cutter)
Helen set herself the challenge of making a cookie to rival the popularity of our chocolate chip cookie. These were the result and they’ve become something of a signature cookie in the shops. We find their combination of salty, sweet and spicy both delicious and intriguing.
The 'O' in the name nods three ways: first to Thomas Keller, whose own version of an Oreo inspired the base for our cookie; second to their small coin shape; and third, of course, to the big round 'O' in the name on the door.
Recipe
1. To make the cookies, place the butter, sugar and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer with the paddle attachment in place. Beat on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until light and fluffy. Sift the flour, cocoa powder and baking soda into a bowl, turn the speed of the mixer to low, then add the dry ingredients in two batches until a dough forms. Tip onto a clean work surface and knead gently until smooth and uniform. Cover the dough loosely in plastic wrap, press to form a disk, and keep in the fridge for 1 hour to firm up.
2. Preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
3. Remove the dough from the fridge about 5 minutes before rolling, so that it has some malleability. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough so that it is about 1/8 inch/3 mm thick; you can divide it in half before rolling, if that’s easier. Using a 2 1/2-inch/6.5-cm round cutter, cut out 44 circles and place them on the parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake for 13–15 minutes, rotating the sheets halfway through, until firm, then remove from the oven and set aside on the sheets until completely cool.
Cookies
- 3/4 cup plus 1 ½ tbsp/190 g unsalted butter, at room temperature, cubed
- 2/3 cup/130 g granulated sugar
- ½ tsp flaky sea salt
- 1 ¾ cups/220 g all-purpose flour
- ¾ cup/75 g Dutch-processed cocoa powder
- ¼ tsp baking soda
4. To make the ganache, place the cinnamon, orange peel and pepper flakes in a small bowl and cover with the boiling water. Set aside to infuse for 30 minutes.
5. After the water has been infusing for about 20 minutes, place the chocolate, vanilla seeds and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.
6. Place the sugar and corn syrup in a small pan and warm over medium heat, stirring from time to time, until the sugar has melted. Increase the heat to medium-high and boil until the sugar caramelizes and turns a light amber color, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the infused water and aromatics. Don’t worry if the sugar seizes in the pan; just return it to the heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Return the caramel to a boil, then strain the liquid over the chocolate and vanilla; the aromatics can be discarded. Leave for 2–3 minutes until the chocolate has melted, then mix together.
7. Add the butter, one piece at a time, stirring continuously until all the butter is incorporated and the chocolate is smooth. Place in the fridge for 30 minutes until the ganache is firm.
8. Spoon a heaped teaspoon of the ganache onto the underside of a cookie, then, using a knife or the back of a spoon, spread it evenly all over the cookie. Place another cookie, underside down, on top of the ganache and sandwich together. Set aside while you repeat with the remaining cookies and ganache.
The dough can be made in advance and kept in the fridge for up to 2 days, or frozen for future use.
Once baked and filled, these will keep for 5 days in an airtight container.
Water ganache
- ½ cinnamon stick
- shaved peel of ½ orange
- ½ tsp crushed red pepper flakes
- 6 tbsp/90 ml boiling water
- 4 ½ oz/125 g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), roughly chopped into 1/3 -inch/1-cm pieces
- scraped seeds of ½ vanilla pod
- ¼ tsp flaky sea salt
- ¼ cup/50 g granulated sugar
- 2 ½ tbsp/50 g light corn syrup
- 3 ½ tbsp/50 g unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 3/4-inch/2-cm cubes
Editorial Reviews
Review
NPR's Best Books of 2017
“With Jerusalem and all the books that followed, Yotam Ottolenghi changed everything about what we cook and crave. Now, with Sweet, he and Helen Goh shake up dessert. In signature style, the recipes are generous, warm, inviting, and copiously sparked with inspiration. Yes, bake those brownies with tahini and halva. Add star anise to blackberry cakes. Revel in the exciting new flavors Sweet brings us. It’s what I’ll be doing.”
—Dorie Greenspan, James Beard Award–winning author
“After winning us over with his savory offerings, Yotam Ottolenghi, with Helen Goh, comes to the sweet side with an international array of gorgeous cookies, cakes, candies, custards… I want to make everything in this luscious book!”
—David Lebovitz, author of My Paris Kitchen and L'Appart
“Yotam Ottolenghi's additions to classic recipes make so much sense, you’ll wonder why you’ve never stirred tahini into brownies or orange flower water into amaretti—or why you’ve never even made your own amaretti! This is my kind of baking book; you’ll want to make everything."
—Elisabeth Prueitt, co-founder of Tartine Manufactory and author of Tartine All Day
"Modern, creative, appealing, and, most importantly, fun—this is Ottolenghi at the top of his game."
—Publishers Weekly, Starred Review
"It's ridiculously beautiful just like all his books, and filled with delicious recipes, same.”
—Sam Sifton, New York Times
"An Innovative Dessert Cookbook You Won’t Want to Miss"
—WSJ. Magazine
"In a world with so many unknowns, it’s a relief to open a book like Sweet and know for certain that following these recipes, step by step, will yield a perfectly moist bundt cake, pillow-y pavlova, or crispy-crusted crostata. Like Ottolenghi’s other titles, this is a keeper."
—Eater
"The recipes are accessible and charming, as you’d expect from the guy who’s pretty much single-handedly responsible for the current renaissance of Middle Eastern cooking (with apologies to Claudia Roden)."
—Los Angeles Times
"Ottolenghi fans have been in a full-on frenzy since he started a New York Times column with all things dessert. Now, they get a whole book of sweet recipes featuring the chef's signatures, like heady saffron, orange and honey madeleines; stunning floral cakes; and tahini-halva brownies that will ruin all other chocolate desserts for you."
—Tasting Table
"...filled with beautiful, inspired recipes, some satisfyingly challenging, others very easy to execute. If you love baking and want to spice up your game a little bit, this one is for you."
—BuzzFeed
"As with Ottolenghi’s previous titles, recipes are written in clear, direct language, flavor parings are bold and unexpected, and the results — whether a tray of simple cookies or a towering torte — are stunning."
—Eater
"#obsessed"
—Christine Muhlke, bon appétit
"...an eagerly anticipated, 368-page master class on how baking can offer both comfort and the thrill of discovery."
—WSJ. Magazine
"Whether you’re a newb to the oven or hoping to perfect your baking skills, you’ll want to grab chefs Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh’s SWEET cookbook. Chockfull of tips, tricks, and drool-worthy recipes, the dynamic duo will have anyone feeling like a pastry pro in a matter of minutes."
—Chowhound
"With their splendid good taste, strong sense of design and bright, culture-hopping palate, Ottolenghi and Goh have created a stunning book of sweets. Even for those who don’t bake, it is weep worthy."
—Atlanta Journal-Constitution
"Ingenious flavor combinations elevate old favorites and new creations in this brilliant and beautiful book of desserts and sweets by two famed British chefs."
—Shelf Awareness for Readers
Praise for previous books:
"This is simply wonderful cooking...modern, smart, and thoughtful. I love it."
—Nigel Slater
"With his 2012 cookbook Jerusalem, London restaurateur Yotam Ottolenghi [has] created a sensation by sharing his unexpected and highly personal take on Mediterranean cooking."
—Food & Wine
"Jerusalem is the top-selling cookbook in the country, subverting the conventional wisdom that you need to have a TV show to have a bestselling cookbook. The book...has become something of a phenomenon."
—Publisher's Weekly
"Plenty...is among the most generous and luxurious nonmeat cookbooks ever produced, one that instantly reminds us that you don't need meat to produce over-the-top food."
—Mark Bittman, New York Times
"Yotam Ottolenghi's second cookbook has recipes for dishes largely absent from the American kitchen—a fact that almost never crosses your mind when you flip through it hungry. Everything sounds mouthwatering and looks–and is –doable."
—Wall Street Journal
About the Author
Helen Goh is a pastry chef, longtime Ottolenghi collaborator, and the Ottolenghi product developer.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
The combination of tahini, halva and chocolate is so good that some members of staff (Tara, we see you!) had to put a temporary personal ban on eating these particular brownies during the making of this book. It is very hard to eat just one.
In order to achieve the perfect balance of cakey and gooey—that sweet spot that all brownies should hit—the cooking time is crucial. It will vary by a minute or so depending on where the pan is sitting in the oven, so keep a close eye on them.
Makes 20
—
1 cup plus 6 tbsp/310 g unsalted butter, cut into 3/4-inch/2-cm cubes, plus extra for greasing
11 oz/310 g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), broken into 1 1/2-inch/4-cm pieces
5 large eggs
1 3/4 cups/350 g granulated sugar
1 1/4 cups/150 g all-purpose flour
1/3 cup plus 2 tbsp/40 g Dutch-processed cocoa powder
3/4 tsp salt
8 3/4 oz/250 g halva, broken into 3/4-inch/2-cm pieces
1/3 cup/100 g tahini paste
—
Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Grease a 9 x 13-inch/23 x 33-cm pan, line with enough parchment paper to create a 3/4-inch/2-cm overhang and then set aside.
Place the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, making sure that the base of the bowl is not touching the water. Leave for 7–8 minutes to melt, then remove the bowl from the heat. Stir until you have a thick shiny sauce and then set aside to come to room temperature.
Place the eggs and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until pale and creamy and a trail is left behind when you move the whisk; this will take about 3 minutes with an electric mixer on medium speed, longer by hand. Add the chocolate and fold through gently with a spatula—don’t overwork the mixture here.
Sift the flour, cocoa powder and salt into a bowl, then gently fold into the chocolate mixture. Finally, add the pieces of halva, gently fold through the mix, then pour or scrape the mixture into the lined baking pan, using a small spatula to even it out. Dollop small spoonfuls of the tahini paste into the mix in about 12 different places, then use a skewer to swirl them through to create a marbled effect, taking the marbling right to the edges of the pan.
Bake for about 38 minutes, until the middle has a slight wobble and it is gooey inside—they may be ready anywhere between 36 and 40 minutes. They may seem a little undercooked at first, but they firm up once they start to cool down. If you want to serve them warmish (and gooey), set aside for just 30 minutes before cutting into 20 pieces. Otherwise, set aside for longer to cool to room temperature.
Product details
- Publisher : Ten Speed Press; First American Edition (October 3, 2017)
- Language : English
- Hardcover : 368 pages
- ISBN-10 : 1607749149
- ISBN-13 : 978-1607749141
- Item Weight : 3.49 pounds
- Dimensions : 7.94 x 1.21 x 10.89 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #39,909 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #79 in Gluten Free Recipes
- #217 in Baking (Books)
- #310 in Celebrity & TV Show Cookbooks
- Customer Reviews:
About the author
Yotam Ottolenghi is the restaurateur and chef-patron of seven UK-based Ottolenghi delis, as well as the NOPI and ROVI restaurants. He is the author of ten best-selling cookery books which have garnered many awards, including the National Book Award for Ottolenghi SIMPLE which was also selected as best book of the year by the New York Times. Yotam has been a weekly columnist for the Saturday Guardian since 2006 and is a regular contributor to the New York Times Magazine. His commitment to the championing of vegetables, as well as ingredients once seen as ‘exotic’ has led to what some call “The Ottolenghi effect”. This is shorthand for the creation of a meal which is full of colour, flavour, bounty and sunshine. Yotam lives in London with his family.
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I've been anxiously awaiting Sweet for months now - excited about what I would find inside, nervous that I would feel disappointed like I was with Nopi.
I want to cook virtually everything from Sweet, but even if I don't, I've already improved as a baker just reading each chapter beginning and some of the recipes. Thus far, I've made the take-home chocolate cake, hazelnut cake, national trust lemon poppy seed cake, and the gevulde speculaas, which were all relatively easy enough to throw together in an evening without much preparation. Everything as looked, smelled, and tasted heavenly ... I'll update my review as I try more (like the tahini halva brownies, almond butter cake with cardamom and baked plums, and the cinnamon pavlova,...).
Sweet goes well beyond the typical cookbook, in that the authors use the chapter intros and the recipe headers to teach their readers something important/provide tips that extend beyond just the single recipe or just this single book. While some of the recipes call for ingredients that are hard to find at local grocery stores, the authors have done an excellent job indicating what common item could be used as a substitute (e.g. almond extract for mahleb powder and vanilla beans for pandan leaf). Overall though, most of the recipes call for ingredients that are easy to find in any supermarket.
Similarly to the issue of ingredients, Ottolenghi and Goh go above and beyond with their pan size & storage recommendations for each recipe. They do an excellent job of explaining why a tin can is called for with their tin can cakes, exactly how to (safely) generate your own, and how you could replace it with a standard sized pan. What was mind blowing for me was reading their tip that I could bake financiers in a muffin tin or mini muffin tin instead of needing a special pan for them, and then (of course) they provided the baking times necessary to make that happen.
More wisdom from Ottolenghi and Goh's experience comes in the madeleines recipe, where they explain what it is about the process of making madeleine batter that yields such a delicate but short-lived cookie, and how they altered the method to improve the madeleines shelf life.
These recipes are extremely well-written and thorough (but not overwhelmingly long), there is at least one glorious photo of every recipe, measurements are provided in both cubs and grams, and the directions generally are found on the same page as the ingredients (or at least start there). I highly recommend starting at the end of the book, with the Baker's tips and notes especially, to get a sense of the authors' baking style, possible substitutions, and their philosophy on things like sifting (do it, multiple times).
Reviewed in the United States on October 4, 2017
I've been anxiously awaiting Sweet for months now - excited about what I would find inside, nervous that I would feel disappointed like I was with Nopi.
I want to cook virtually everything from Sweet, but even if I don't, I've already improved as a baker just reading each chapter beginning and some of the recipes. Thus far, I've made the take-home chocolate cake, hazelnut cake, national trust lemon poppy seed cake, and the gevulde speculaas, which were all relatively easy enough to throw together in an evening without much preparation. Everything as looked, smelled, and tasted heavenly ... I'll update my review as I try more (like the tahini halva brownies, almond butter cake with cardamom and baked plums, and the cinnamon pavlova,...).
Sweet goes well beyond the typical cookbook, in that the authors use the chapter intros and the recipe headers to teach their readers something important/provide tips that extend beyond just the single recipe or just this single book. While some of the recipes call for ingredients that are hard to find at local grocery stores, the authors have done an excellent job indicating what common item could be used as a substitute (e.g. almond extract for mahleb powder and vanilla beans for pandan leaf). Overall though, most of the recipes call for ingredients that are easy to find in any supermarket.
Similarly to the issue of ingredients, Ottolenghi and Goh go above and beyond with their pan size & storage recommendations for each recipe. They do an excellent job of explaining why a tin can is called for with their tin can cakes, exactly how to (safely) generate your own, and how you could replace it with a standard sized pan. What was mind blowing for me was reading their tip that I could bake financiers in a muffin tin or mini muffin tin instead of needing a special pan for them, and then (of course) they provided the baking times necessary to make that happen.
More wisdom from Ottolenghi and Goh's experience comes in the madeleines recipe, where they explain what it is about the process of making madeleine batter that yields such a delicate but short-lived cookie, and how they altered the method to improve the madeleines shelf life.
These recipes are extremely well-written and thorough (but not overwhelmingly long), there is at least one glorious photo of every recipe, measurements are provided in both cubs and grams, and the directions generally are found on the same page as the ingredients (or at least start there). I highly recommend starting at the end of the book, with the Baker's tips and notes especially, to get a sense of the authors' baking style, possible substitutions, and their philosophy on things like sifting (do it, multiple times).
The instructions are very clear and give you multiple options/times for using various baking tins. Tell you what you can prep in advance, how long you can store each item and when its best eaten. Beautiful photographs of virtually every recipe, which is so helpful in seeing how your final product should look and be decorated. A few unique ingredients in some recipes (such as halva, pandan leaves and rose petals), but many pantry friendly recipes too. A great mixture of simple treats to whip up and more complex "wow" desserts.
Purchase this for your loved ones or yourself. You won't regret it!!
Reviewed in the United States on November 13, 2017
The instructions are very clear and give you multiple options/times for using various baking tins. Tell you what you can prep in advance, how long you can store each item and when its best eaten. Beautiful photographs of virtually every recipe, which is so helpful in seeing how your final product should look and be decorated. A few unique ingredients in some recipes (such as halva, pandan leaves and rose petals), but many pantry friendly recipes too. A great mixture of simple treats to whip up and more complex "wow" desserts.
Purchase this for your loved ones or yourself. You won't regret it!!
Pictured below:
1) Vineyard Cake (Cleopatra Cake) – p 134. This is so wonderfully fruity. It’s filled with grapes, wine, and citrus zest. It’s supposed to be baked in an angelfood cake pan, but I don’t have one, so I used a bundt. That worked just fine.
2) Honey, Macadamia, and Coconut Caramels – p 339. This is unmistakably caramel, but the floral notes of the honey, teamed up with the macadamia and coconut, take away that over the top sweetness that caramel sometimes has. Beautiful.
3) Cinnamon Pavlova, Praline Cream & Fresh Figs – p 291. I was an exchange student in Australia in high school forever ago. I’ll never forget the first thing we experienced when we got to the host’s house - making and tasting a pavlova together. I loved it then, and love this take on it. There’s a layer of dark chocolate between the cinnamon pavlova and the praline mascarpone and cream. So decadent, but not too sweet.
4) Apricot & Thyme Galettes with Polenta Pastry – p 253. Divine. I love the gentle sweetness of the polenta with the apricots and custardy pastry cream. Fragrant like a summer orchard.
5) Saffron, Orange & Honey Madeleines – p 76. Oh, these are just heavenly little cakes. Such a fresh citrus taste and really moist.
Some others I have flagged to try: Custard Yo-Yos with Roasted Rhubarb Icing – p 19 * Cranberry, Oat & White Chocolate Biscuits – p 24 * Chocolate Chip & Pecan Cookies – p 26 * Brown Butter Almond Tuiles – p 30 * Gevulde Speculaas – p 33 * Chocolate & Peanut Butter S’Mores – p 48 * Pecan Snowballs – p 63 * Persian Love Cakes – p 74 * Lemon & Raspberry Cupcakes – p 79 * Tahini & Halva Brownies – p 87 * Lemon, Blueberry & Almond Teacakes – p 88 * Banana Cakes with Rum Caramel – p 100 * Chocolate Guiness Cake with Baileys Irish Cream – p 117 * Beet, Ginger & Sour Cream Cake – p 130 * Lemon & Black Currant Stripe Cake – p 145 * Rhubarb and Strawberry Crumble Cake – p 148 * Tropical Fruit Cake – p 161 * Pistachio and Rose Water Semolina Cake – p 165 * Almond Cake with Cardamom and Baked Plums – p 176 * Neapolitan Pound Cake – p 184 * Lime Meringue Cheesecakes – p 201 * Passion Fruit Cheesecakes with Spiced Pineapple – p 207 * Baked Ricotta and Hazelnut Cheesecakes – p 209 * Rhubarb and Blueberry Galette – p 230 * Chai Brulee Tarts – p 239 * Fig and Pistachio Frangipane Tartlets – p 247 * Rolled Pavlova with Peaches & Blackberries – p 263 * Gingerbread with Brandy Apples & Crème Fraiche – p 266 * Sticky Fig Pudding with Salted Caramel & Coconut Topping – p 287 * Knickerbocker Glory – p 293 * Chocolate, Rose & Walnut Ice Cream – p 308
I’ll update this as I play in the book more.
Reviewed in the United States on October 4, 2017
Pictured below:
1) Vineyard Cake (Cleopatra Cake) – p 134. This is so wonderfully fruity. It’s filled with grapes, wine, and citrus zest. It’s supposed to be baked in an angelfood cake pan, but I don’t have one, so I used a bundt. That worked just fine.
2) Honey, Macadamia, and Coconut Caramels – p 339. This is unmistakably caramel, but the floral notes of the honey, teamed up with the macadamia and coconut, take away that over the top sweetness that caramel sometimes has. Beautiful.
3) Cinnamon Pavlova, Praline Cream & Fresh Figs – p 291. I was an exchange student in Australia in high school forever ago. I’ll never forget the first thing we experienced when we got to the host’s house - making and tasting a pavlova together. I loved it then, and love this take on it. There’s a layer of dark chocolate between the cinnamon pavlova and the praline mascarpone and cream. So decadent, but not too sweet.
4) Apricot & Thyme Galettes with Polenta Pastry – p 253. Divine. I love the gentle sweetness of the polenta with the apricots and custardy pastry cream. Fragrant like a summer orchard.
5) Saffron, Orange & Honey Madeleines – p 76. Oh, these are just heavenly little cakes. Such a fresh citrus taste and really moist.
Some others I have flagged to try: Custard Yo-Yos with Roasted Rhubarb Icing – p 19 * Cranberry, Oat & White Chocolate Biscuits – p 24 * Chocolate Chip & Pecan Cookies – p 26 * Brown Butter Almond Tuiles – p 30 * Gevulde Speculaas – p 33 * Chocolate & Peanut Butter S’Mores – p 48 * Pecan Snowballs – p 63 * Persian Love Cakes – p 74 * Lemon & Raspberry Cupcakes – p 79 * Tahini & Halva Brownies – p 87 * Lemon, Blueberry & Almond Teacakes – p 88 * Banana Cakes with Rum Caramel – p 100 * Chocolate Guiness Cake with Baileys Irish Cream – p 117 * Beet, Ginger & Sour Cream Cake – p 130 * Lemon & Black Currant Stripe Cake – p 145 * Rhubarb and Strawberry Crumble Cake – p 148 * Tropical Fruit Cake – p 161 * Pistachio and Rose Water Semolina Cake – p 165 * Almond Cake with Cardamom and Baked Plums – p 176 * Neapolitan Pound Cake – p 184 * Lime Meringue Cheesecakes – p 201 * Passion Fruit Cheesecakes with Spiced Pineapple – p 207 * Baked Ricotta and Hazelnut Cheesecakes – p 209 * Rhubarb and Blueberry Galette – p 230 * Chai Brulee Tarts – p 239 * Fig and Pistachio Frangipane Tartlets – p 247 * Rolled Pavlova with Peaches & Blackberries – p 263 * Gingerbread with Brandy Apples & Crème Fraiche – p 266 * Sticky Fig Pudding with Salted Caramel & Coconut Topping – p 287 * Knickerbocker Glory – p 293 * Chocolate, Rose & Walnut Ice Cream – p 308
I’ll update this as I play in the book more.