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Photo ©Tom Hyland

One of the world’s great red wines, Barolo is also one of the most distinctive. This is due to several factors, with two being the most important. First, Barolo is made entirely from Nebbiolo, a variety that is best expressed in the Piedmont region, where it is indigenous.

Secondly, Barolo is one of the few wines which can be mentioned in a serious discussion of terroir, as with Grand Cru Burgundy. The examples of Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba, from older soils, are very different in character than those from Verduno or La Morra, where younger soils are present. In fact, even in La Morra, there are major variations among the wines from vineyards near the town to those in the Annunziata district, to the west (and this, considering only the soils and climate, without taking into effect, various winemaking practices among producers).

Having traveled to the Barolo production zone since 2001, and having walked through and photographed many of the most famous vineyards with the most renowned producers, Barolo has become a major passion for me, and is a focal point of my wine studies. I’ve tasted more than 3000 different examples of Barolo over the past ten years and have written more than a dozen articles on these wines, as well as a book on the wines and foods of the region.

Thus my list of the best Barolo producers. I could write about 100 different companies, but that would be better suited to a book on the subject. Thus I’ll profile 25 and also include an honorable mention list of another 25. Even with that, I’ll have to omit a few first-rate producers, evidence of the tremendous quality of this wine.

I’m not ranking these producers for one simple reason – it’s pointless. How do you determine that my number 14 selection is better than my number 15? Why is Barolo number 3 better than 4, and so on. Thus I’ll list them in alphabetical order. Any producer listed among the top 25 Barolo is an outstanding producer.

But I am writing about one winery separately to begin this article. That makes this producer, in my opinion, the single best of all the vintners that make Barolo. I rarely single out one producer as the best in a zone, but I feel that strongly in this instance. I know that a large percentage of Barolo lovers will agree with me regarding this selection.

Photo ©Tom Hyland

So without further ado, the finest producer of Barolo is:

Bartolo Mascarello - Bartolo Mascarello was a true legend, a vintner with unshakable principles regarding what Barolo should be about. In his case, this meant blending grapes from different communes (Barolo and La Morra), extended maceration between 30-50 days, and aging the wine in large casks, known as grandi botti. In fact, Mascarello, who created various labels for his wines in his later years, designed a special one that read “No Barriques, No Berlusconi,” as proof of his dislike for small barrels as well as one of Italy’s most notorious politicians.

Mascarello passed away in 2005, and today his daughter Maria Teresa carries on with her father’s philosophy at their small cellar in the town of Barolo. This means an ultra traditional wine, one that displays the strength of Barolo, while at the same time, offering superb varietal purity and impeccable harmony among fruit, wood notes, tannins and acidity. There are some reviewers that have recently become enamored with Barolo who are puzzled when they taste the Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, but they are looking for a wine with more flash and sizzle, something that was not a style favored by Bartolo.

For true Barolo lovers, though, this is the model for what Barolo – especially traditional Barolo - should be, and the Bartolo Mascarello Barolo is held in the greatest esteem. Because of the quality of the fruit, as well as the strict winemaking principles, this wine from the finest vintages (1986, 1988, 1999, 2001, 2004, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2013) ages for 30-50 years. Simply put, this is a brilliant Barolo that all other Barolo producers look to for inspiration.

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The remainder of the Top 25 Barolo producers

Cavallotto (Castiglione Falletto) - This is a traditional producer best known for their Barolos from the Bricco Boschis vineyard at their estate. The San Giuseppe Riserva from this vineyard is exceptional, a wine of superb harmony and tremendous aging potential.

Ceretto (Alba) – An historic producer best known for its Bricco Rocche Barolo in Castiglione Falletto, while their Prapò Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba is excellent and a fine value. Winemaker Alessandro Ceretto has been moving the wines here back to a more traditional style.

Michele Chiarlo (La Morra) – Two cru Barolos are produced here, an excellent Cannubi and Cerequio from La Morra (also home to a lovely relais). The Cerequio is regularly outstanding, displaying impressive depth of fruit and a notable sense of place. Also look for the Tortoniano Barolo, a blend of several sites, that is a fine value.

Elvio Cogno (Novello) – Valter Fissore and his wife Nadia have been quietly producing routinely excellent versions of Barolo from the Ravera cru in Novello, in the southern reaches of the Barolo zone. The classic Ravera is first-rate, while the Vigna Elena, sourced from a small section of this vineyard, and made from the rosé clone of Nebbiolo, is an amazing wine of finesse and staying power.

Aldo Conterno (Monforte d’Alba) – Three excellent to outstanding versions of Barolo from their estate: Romirasco, Cicala and Colonello. Each is powerful and is at its best some 12-20 years after the vintage; each is aged in large casks. From time to time, a blend of the three vineyards, known as GranBussia, is produced; this is one of the longest-lived Barolos in existence, with great power, as well as outstanding harmony – don’t miss it!

Giacomo Conterno (Monforte d’Alba) – Though located in Monforte, this producer is best known for its Barolos from the neighboring Serralunga d’Alba commune. Their most famous release is Monfortino, a legendary Barolo with great complexity and staying power. This has become a classic, and prices have skyrocketed as of late.

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Giacomo Fenocchio (Castiglione Falletto) – Elegant, traditional Barolo from several sites in the Barolo zone, including Cannubi, Castellero and Villero. Winemaker Claudio Fenocchio crafts subdued, traditional Barolo that are as graceful as his personality. Look for his Bussia 90 Di, macerated for 90 days (a remarkably long time for Barolo), that is his crowning achievement.

Ettore Germano (Serralunga d’Alba) – Sergio Germano has been one of the most consistent Barolo producers of the last 12-15 years. His Prapò is first-rate, and his Lazzarito Riserva captures the spice and strength of this great site.

Bruno Giacosa – Though the winery is located in the town of Neive in the Barbaresco zone, Bruno Giacosa is just as famous for his various examples of Barolo, sourced from the Falletto vineyard in Serralunga. The white label is remarkably expressive and built for the long haul, while the red label riserva is truly memorable, one of the top five Barolo, year in and year out.

Photo ©Tom Hyland

Elio Grasso (Monforte d’Alba) – This is another winery that is highly respected by other Barolo producers. Elio Grasso and his son Gianluca, continue to release beautifully perfumed and structured Barolo, both in a traditional style, with the Gavarini Chiniera and Ginestra Casa Maté Barolos, while the riserva Runcot is a more modern style. Great expressions of Monforte terroir; these examples of Barolo are as honest as you can find.

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Paolo Manzone (Serralunga d’Alba) – A medium-sized estate that real Barolo fans appreciate, both for the consistency as well as the price/quality relationship. The Serralunga comune Barolo is a great value (the 2014 is particularly well done), while the Meriame, from 70 years old vines at the estate, is one of the zone’s most underrated Barolos. The riserva Barolo, partly matured in amphorae, is nothing short of brilliant (especially the 2008, 2011 and 2012).

Marchesi di Barolo (Barolo) – You would expect some pretty special examples of Barolo with this name, and the winery delivers; especially noteworthy are the Cannubi and the Coste di Rose, as well as the Sarmassa in most years. Somewhat modern in their approach, the Barolos here also pay tribute to the winemaking heritage of this territory; the wines offer excellent ripeness and harmony.

Giuseppe Mascarello (Castiglione Falletto) – Wines of power, varietal purity and structure for the long haul are trademarks of Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo. A traditional producer, his Monprivato offering is a classic, and nothing less than one of the top 10 Barolos of the entire zone, while the Villero and Perno “Santo Stefano” are also outstanding. While you can enjoy these wines upon release, you will experience greater rewards when the wines are at least 15 years of age.

Massolino (Serralunga d’Alba) - If you’re a fan of traditional Barolo, this is a must. Franco Massolino heads the winemaking here, and his cru Barolo are sourced entirely from estate fruit at Margheria and Parafada in Serralunga, and Parussi in Castiglione Falletto. Their most celebrated wine is a riserva from the Vigna Rionda vineyard in Serralunga that is released ten years after the vintage (marked with an X). I’ve tasted 25 year old Barolos from Massolino that display remarkable freshness; every Massolino Barolo offers admirable harmony and restraint.

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Poderi e Cantine Oddero (Santa Maria, La Morra) – Maria Cristina Oddero, who manages this estate – she has a Master’s Degree in viticulture and enology – is one of the great women of the Barolo zone (and there are many). Her father made a classic Barolo, blended from several sites for many years (the 1964, tasted a few years ago, is magnificent), and Cristina continues to produce this wine. She also pursued single vineyard Barolo several years ago, and the Oddero portfolio, including Rocche di Castiglione, Brunate and Vigna Mondoca (a very underrated Barolo) is one of the best. Great varietal purity, subdued wood notes, graceful tannins and pinpoint acidity are signatures of the Poderi Oddero Barolos.

Palladino (Serralunga) – A jewel of an estate in the town of Serralunga that offers beautifully crafted Barolos with superb expression of local terroir. The Serralunga comune Barolo is a great introduction to the Serralunga style of Barolo, while the Ornato and San Bernardo riserva offerings are more full-bodied with richer tannins and greater staying power. Palladino is just another outstanding producers from Serralunga d’Alba, arguably the finest commune for classic Barolo for aging potential.

Pio Cesare (Alba) – An historic producer, established in the city of Alba in 1881, Pio Cesare represents an important chapter in the story of Barolo. Today Pio Boffa, as hard working and as engaging a personality as there is in Piedmont, manages this estate. There are two Barolos produced here; the classic offering, a blend from several communes in the Barolo zone, and the Ornato offering, from the eponymous vineyard in Serralunga. The classic is an excellent representation of the nature of Barolo, while the Ornato is a more powerful wine with rich tannins and a rugged structure that demands time. Both wines taste out beautifully with age; about a decade with the classic version, and 15-25 years for the Ornato.

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Photo ©Tom Hyland

Renato Ratti (Annunziata, La Morra) – Founded in 1965, this is one of the Barolo zone’s most recognized estates. Today, managed by Pietro Ratti, son of Renato, the Barolos here are a mix of tradition and modernity, as the wines are aged in various sized casks. The Marcenasco Barolo is a selezione of grapes from nearby vineyards and is the most traditional, while the single vineyard offerings, Conca and Rocche dell’Annunziata, are the signature wines at Ratti, rich and sublime Barolos that generally drink well for 15-30 years, even longer in great vintages such as 2001, 2004, 2008, 2010, 2012 and 2013.

Giuseppe Rinaldi (Barolo) – Giuseppe “Beppe” Rinaldi passed away in 2018, leaving a history of remarkable Barolo over the past four decades. Above all, his wines represent the finesse of Barolo as well as an unmistakable sense of site. His best Barolo has been his Brunate (formerly known as Brunate – Le Coste); another excellent example is his “Tre Tini” Barolo. Rinaldi earned the respect of everyone in the zone, and will be sorely missed; thankfully, his wines will preserve his legacy.

Francesco Rinaldi (Barolo) – Here is a superb family winery that releases ultra traditional Barolo, matured solely in large Slavonian oak casks. There is a classic Barolo as well as two cru offerings from the winery’s holdings in Cannubi and Brunate; there is also a Cannubi riserva, produced only from the finest vintages. Each Barolo displays superb Nebbiolo purity, as well as outstanding complexity, with subtle spice in the finish. Graceful and true to their source, these Barolo are exemplary proof that it’s difficult to improve upon tradition in the Barolo zone, when the wines are this special.

Rocche Costamagna (La Morra) – This is a bit of a hidden gem, but true Barolo fans know the quality of the wines produced by Alessandro Locatelli at this small winery, located on the top of the hill in the town of La Morra. His classic Barolo is a beautifully balanced effort, while his offerings from Rocche dell’Annunziata are regularly outstanding (especially the Bricco Francesco riserva). These are wines with excellent ripeness, subdued wood notes and exquisite harmony.

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Paolo Scavino (Castiglione Falletto) - There’s nothing overly fancy with this winery; the family – Enrico Scavino and his daughers Elisa and Enrica – produces great Barolos from several of the finest cru. Among the best wines here are Bric dël Fiasc, Monvigliero (one of the very best from this site), Bricco Ambrogio and the Rocche dell’Annunziata riserva, a stellar wine that is arguably the winery’s finest. Over the past decade, the influence of oak has become less noticeable, letting the Nebbiolo character of each site shine through.

Schiavenza (Serralunga d’Alba) – If you are looking for a classic Serralunga Barolo that offers structure for long-term cellaring, the wines from Schiavenza are ideal candidates. Traditional in the winemaking, each Barolo is an excellent representation of its site, from the Serralunga comune bottling to Broglio, Ceretta and Prapò. The wines are rugged in nature, but never aggressive, and are beautifully made with great restraint and harmony.

Vietti (Castiglione Falletto) - Vietti was among the first wineries to produce a single vineyard Barolo – Rocche from the 1961 vintage – and today, the winery makes as many as four cru Barolo per year, in addition to a splendid riserva from the Villero vineyard in exceptional vintages, as well as a classic Barolo named Castiglione, that is an outstanding value. Luca Currado, one of the most charming people you will ever meet, learned the fundamental nature of Barolo from his father Alfredo, and today, he has elevated Vietti to the category of outstanding Barolo producers.

Roberto Voerzio (La Morra) – As Voerzio was the first producer to receive 100-point ratings for his Barolo, he has become a household word among the area’s vintners. His single vineyard Barolos are entirely from La Morra, from some of the most historic and highly acclaimed sites, including Brunate, Cerequio, La Serra and Rocche dell’Annunziata. While some have labeled him a modernist, in reality, he makes different styles of Barolo, as some are aged solely in barrique, while others mature in a combination of small and large wood. What each has in common is they are the result of tiny yields (anywhere from 30%-50% below the maximum yield allowed), resulting in intensely flavored wines that are meant for long-term cellaring, as often as 30-50 years.

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Honorable Mention – 25 more highly recommended Barolo producers

Fratelli Alessandria, Elio Altare, G.B. Burlotto

Tenuta Carretta, Castello di Verduno, Domenico Clerico, Cordero di Montezemolo

Luigi Einaudi, Fontanafredda, Fratelli Giacosa, Bruna Grimaldi

Giovanni Manzone, Marcarini, Mario Marengo, E. Mirafiore

E. Pira (Chiara Boschis), Luigi Pira

Giovanni Rosso, Rivetto

Luciano Sandrone, Scarzello, Mauro Sebaste, Giovanni Sordo, Trediberri

GD Vajra, Mauro Veglio