If that celebratory glass of champagne has gone to your head, you’re not alone. Americans are drinking France's most famous fizz more and more: In 2017, stateside shipments of Champagne reached their highest levels ever, at 23 million bottles (a five percent increase from the previous year). What if you want to go further than the local wine store, and visit the land that gave the world the ultimate mood-lifter in a glass? You won't be able to just show up and traipse around Veuve Clicquot's svelte vineyards; you'll need a plan. We gathered our need-to-know tips into this handy primer to help you out.
Overview
First things first: The term "Champagne" isn't a catch-all for anything sparkling in a glass. It refers to a type of bubbly, made according to specific standards, within one of the sub-zones of France's Champagne region. This winemaking region surrounds Paris on the northeast side, with the cities of Reims and Epernay often used as visitors' home bases (heavy-hitter producers like the aforementioned Veuve and Mumm are there, too). They're both easily accessible by train from Paris and less than a two-hour ride away, though you can rent a car (or hire a driver—particularly recommended if you plan to drink and not stay overnight).
When to Go
Two days is plenty for a first visit, according to Caroline Brun, one of the area's foremost guides. “Don’t worry," she says with a laugh. "You will be addicted to Champagne after that first visit, and next time, you can visit for longer.” Avoid harvest time, usually in late summer, especially if you want to see the smaller, independent vineyards rather than just the big name brands. Those owner-operated set-ups—known as grower champagnes—will likely be too busy to welcome visitors. Instead, Brun recommends going in October and November. “The harvest is over, but you can still find some grapes remaining in the vineyards," she says. "The colors are changing, so all the slopes aren’t green, but reddish gold.”
What to Pack
Though quaffing a glass of champagne might be glamorous, adopt a more practical approach for outfitting yourself when you visit the region. Bring sneakers or flat shoes: Many of the roads are cobbled, the cellars are uneven, and you’ll likely be picking your way through the vines. A sweater or down vest is handy, too: The weather in this part of northern France can prove rather English (think: gray and rainy, regardless of time of year), and the caves are often chilly, too.
Have a Strategy
Don’t expect to be spontaneous, either. Unlike Napa, or even Bordeaux, where tasting rooms are usually ready to welcome walk-ins, even the larger houses in Champagne operate by appointment. Check websites to book your slot (be prompt: lateness isn’t just considered rude—it might result in your forfeiting access). Wineries open in the morning and almost all will shut over lunch. “Remember that it’s really important to have a hearty breakfast, since you may well have your first tasting at 10 a.m. [before drinking all day], and you may not be used to that,” says Jenna Jones, from wine tour specialist Grape Escapes.
Logistics in the region can be frustrating. Public transportation is patchy, and taxi prices are exorbitant: Call for a pick-up from a vineyard beyond city limits, and you’ll pay not only for your journey, but for however long it takes for the taxi to arrive, too. If you want to explore those less accessible champagne houses, it’s best to book a tour that includes transport. You can book a tour through Grape Escapes, and Brun, too, offers custom private tours, starting at €350 per person; contact her at Caroline@Wine-art.expert.
Where to Taste
Champagne has five main regions, or zones. Stay in Reims to explore the Montagne de Reims, which focuses on pinot noir. This zone makes the fullest bodied Champagnes, often intended to age. By contrast, base yourself in Epernay to explore the pinot meunier–focused region of the Vallée de la Marne. Pinot meunier is usually blended with other grapes; for example, it’s used with pinot noir to make delicious blanc des noirs. Stay there, too, if you’re curious to see the Côte des Blancs, which focuses solely on chardonnay-based bubbly. This is also used in blends or to make the light, aperitif-style blanc de blancs Champagne. You could make Troyes your base if you want to explore two lesser-known areas: the Aube, which contributes grapes mostly for non-vintage fizz, and the newish Côte de Sézanne, which specializes in chardonnay-focused plantings.
The first three regions will hold the greatest interest for most travelers. You can visit all three in a single day, albeit with a little planning, but if you’d rather spend less time commuting and dive deep into a single region, Jones recommends focusing on the Montagne de Reims. Most household name champagnes lean heavily on pinot noir, she says, so visitors’ palates tend to be accustomed to this style. Such familiarity also makes tasting more accessible, and it’s easier for a newbie to discern the subtle differences between the houses there.
Among the major marquees, don’t miss Taittinger, which most insiders agree is the best organized and most insightful of the visitor experiences. Ruinart, too, is a standout. Among grower champagnes, try Eric Rodez in Ambonnay, which makes an unusual blanc de blancs from chardonnay grown there, or the Côte des Blancs–based Henry de Vaugency, where the English-speaking owner Pascal conducts tours personally (his Grand Cru quality wines start at less than €20 per bottle, too). There’s a fine museum at the tiny vineyard of Meteyer, which also produces superb Champagne from the Côte des Noirs; another notable nearby is Lamiable, in the Grand Cru village of Tours sur Marne.
For more suggestions of standout boutique producers, check Vine Trail. One major advantage to visiting smaller produces like these: The entire process takes place onsite, so you can see the journey from grape to bottle. Larger brands, by contrast, tend to welcome visitors solely to their cellars, where the bottles are stored.
Where to Stay And Eat
Epernay is arguably the handiest base, as it’s at the center of the region. What's more, its main drag is the Avenue de Champagne, whose tenants read like a roll call of the area’s best-known alums: Moët & Chandon (tip: despite the SNL skit, it's pronounced "Mo-ET"), Perrier Jouët, Pol Roger, and more. Even better, a new five-star hotel and spa, Royal Champagne, opened this spring north of the town and is owned by Franco-American couple Denise Dupré and Mark Nunnelly, who also own biodynamic Champagne house Leclerc Briant. It’s on a storied site, where Napoleon once guzzled a few magnums. The head sommelier of its restaurant, Alberto Segade—a veteran of London’s Claridge's —is especially knowledgeable.
Reims has its own attractions beyond the local wine—its Gothic cathedral, for example—and as a university town, is much livelier in the evenings; both Ruinart and Taittinger are here. Stay in the city center at the historic, 18-room Grand Hotel des Templiers. There’s a fistful of Michelin-starred restaurants in the city—and though delicious, they tend to be overpriced. Consider eating among the locals at fish restaurant Le Bocal, tucked in the back of a fishmonger, and the funky, deli-style wine shop and wine bar Au Bon Manger.
If you’re feeling adventurous, consider Troyes. Less business-focused than the other two, it retains far more of those medieval buildings, with their familiar, whitewashed wooden façades. One of them is the wood-timbered Maison de Rhodes, right in the historic center. It was once the local base for the Knights of Malta, hence the name. The wine bar and shop Au Crieurs de Vin in town features mostly organic Champagnes, many of them surprisingly affordable.
