If the school curriculum achieved what it was supposed to, when you think of Weymouth you should think of windswept shores (On Chesil Beach, by Ian McEwan), smugglers and secrecy (Moonfleet, by J Meade Falkner), or perhaps romantic maritime history (The Trumpet-Major, by Thomas Hardy). A+ to you. Weymouth is all these things, and in recent years, much more besides.
The pretty Regency and Victorian seaside town, jutting out from Dorset, its well-preened houses painted bonbon pink, barley yellow and pastel blue, has also become a modern-day movie location, so that your children too may recognise it, from Dunkirk, cult flick Two for Joy, or TV’s Broadchurch.
To cater for growing interest from DFLs (down-from-Londoners), Weymouth homeowners are turning their Victorian seafront houses into cute B&Bs or letting them out as beachy Airbnbs. But, unlike gentrified coastal towns in Cornwall and Devon, Weymouth still has a buzzing social scene year-round (with live music particularly popular). You can eat sensational seafood here these days — and choose whether to have it wrapped in newspaper, or alongside a Dorset sparkling white.
Weymouth has artfully become all things to all holidaymakers, without losing its original bucket-and-spade charm. Which means it gets full marks from us.
This article contains links from which we may earn revenue. More information here.
Advertisement
What to do
Weymouth visitors can just as easily watch a Punch and Judy show on the shore as they can hire a private catamaran and sail Weymouth Harbour (with eFoils and prosecco on board, no less). Budget and bling travellers are equally smitten with the place.
There’s plenty of ground to cover, too; when people travel to “Weymouth” they’re actually venturing as far west as Chesil Beach — where the Fleet Explorer boat sails the lagoon and takes passengers birdwatching — and as far east as Ringstead Bay for Jurassic fossil hunting and thatched-pub pints. Weymouth also includes the Isle of Portland, a tear-shaped promontory linked to the mainland by causeway; here, pirates once ruled the waves, and they say you can see a real pirate graveyard if you know where to look.
Beaches range from the pebbly and private (tiny Church Ope Cove on Portland, for example, is idyllic but requires wet shoes) to safe and sandy. Weymouth town beach is gently shelving, and perfect for summertime picnics or long, wintry walks; its golden sand is flawless. Not far from the beach is SandWorld, an all-weather park showcasing the best sand sculptures in Britain.
Where to stay
If you want bang-on-the-beach with sea views guaranteed, you’re best off staying right in Weymouth old town, on the Esplanade, where beautifully restored Victorian terraces are full of brilliant B&Bs. This main drag, where crabbing stores and fish-and-chip shops congregate, is where you’ll find No 98, Chapter 1, Gresham Guest House and the AA award-winning Gloucester House among others.
Out of town and eastwards, the high-vantage scenic coastal road drops down into fishing villages such as Ringstead and Osmington Mills; at the latter you’ll find pretty-as-a-postcard Smugglers Inn.
Advertisement
If you’re in a group or with family, consider self-catering. South towards Portland, Waterside Holiday Park is a boutique caravan park (with a spa!), where some cabins even come with a hot tub. Further on, the Penn Estate on the island has accommodation options ranging from cabins to an exclusive-use castle; its most impressive offering is Clifftops — modern beach houses built in Portland stone with all the wow factor you’d expect to see in an interiors magazine.
Food and drink
Unsurprisingly, fish and seafood is Weymouth’s big draw. The award for best fish and chips is hotly contested and is given either to Fish ‘n’ Fritz, Bennett’s or the Marlboro, depending on who you ask (locals have their firm favourites, so ask around on the harbourfront if you’re stumped). Keeping up with the times, Fish ‘n’ Fritz offers its entire fried menu gluten-free (optional), while the speciality at the Marlboro is fried mackerel fillets, as made famous by local celeb Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. Hatch on the Harbour is a healthier option and a stylish newcomer to the streetside food scene, selling oysters, half-lobsters and crab sandwiches.
Going upscale, Catch at the Old Fish Market is the table to book. It dishes up hyper-sustainable, fishy fine dining and is in the Michelin guide. Diners must order one of a handful of tasting menus (no à la carte), which shows you how seriously it takes its fish. Next door is Vinolo – in its own words a “wine bar, cheese bar, gin bar and tapas bar” — and, in fact, you can’t go wrong wandering the gorgeous old harbourfront when looking for sustenance. Just join the end of any queue and you’ll be fine; locals only queue if it’s worth the wait.
Don’t miss
Rossi’s Ices on the Esplanade serves the best ice cream. It’s official. Well, we think so anyway. The parlour has been in business on the same spot since 1937 and its art deco fascia is Instagram heaven. Order a scoop to take away — you’re right opposite the sands, where deckchairs for rent await — or sit in the old-school café. Just as founder Fioravanti Figliolini did decades ago, his great-grand-daughter Aimee still concocts the classics, such as knickerbocker glory, banana split and peach melba. And not a single one of those dishes busts a £5 budget.
Know before you go
There is one major road in and out of Weymouth — tellingly called the Weymouth Relief Road (A354) — so expect heavy traffic in summer, especially on weekends. Sorry folks, this is the Great British seaside, after all. Access to the old town and harbour is by bascule bridge and, considering how productive Weymouth Harbour is, this is often in use. Our advice is to park on the town fringes and enjoy the walk in, or drive straight to the huge seafront Pavilion car park and grab a spot if you arrive early enough.
Take me there
Advertisement
Inspired to visit Weymouth but yet to book your trip? Here are the best places to stay from Booking.com and Hotels.com, as well as the best tours of Weymouth from our trusted partners.
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.