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Show me a more photogenic or perfectly set village in the Yorkshire Dales than Malham and I’ll jump with a pair of water wings from the top of Malham Cove. A gorgeous sunny morning lays special glory on the neat stone cottages, the bird-haunted gardens and the stone bridges across Malham Beck and I am already entranced as I strike out through the pastures on the paved path to Janet’s Foss. “Nice day for a walk,” says the farmer mending a field wall in outsize flat cap and rubber boots. “Lord, didn’t the rain half come last night. We could do with it, mind. Going up Gordale? That’s quite