Since the start of last year, the possibility of a political move northwards has been entertained. At first, it was the House of Lords, then it was touted that both Houses of Parliament could relocate to York, even if temporarily while the Palace of Westminster undergoes its major £4 billion redevelopment. Now in Rishi Sunak’s recent budget he has confirmed Darlington in County Durham as the new location for the government’s Treasury North (where a total of 750 civil servants will relocate to from numerous departments). This announcement is just the start as the government scopes out its ‘levelling-out’ plans to move 22,000 Civil Servants out of London by 2030.
An article in the Times last year suggested that peers with aspirations of grandeur were rather rubbing their hands together in glee at the prospect of up-sizing from their modest London dwellings to the ‘Edwardian Villas of Harrogate’ – and similarly, a lot of civil servants will be thinking much the same in County Durham (where they will be able to afford a four-bedroom house for the same price as a poky London apartment.)
Indeed, if York were to resume its capacity as a centre for political power, it would lure a lot of London’s major players north. And while the Roman city of York is fabled and grand, its westerly Yorkshire neighbour, the spa town of Harrogate, with its Moorish Baths once frequented by the royals, is the unquestionable northern capital of chic. It’s thought to be ‘the Belgravia’ of North Yorkshire, and it’s easy to see why. As Mayfair’s Cork Street gallery Messums sets up on James Street, a stone’s throw from the Montpellier Quarter, and Lady Georgina Anderson (better known as Lady G) a Cordon Bleu-trained chef and the daughter of the Marquess of Downshire, will cater for your dinner parties, it’s like you could be in a less polluted – and easily more scenic – version of London.
For peers and civil servants wanting to test the water, here’s our guide for where to eat out, have a jewel replaced on a family tiara and visit at the weekend.
Where to buy jewellery
Established in 1831, head to Fattorini’s on Parliament Square for the finest pieces of jewellery. Today it’s run by direct descendants of the original Antonio Fattorini and it’s where the Empress of Russia would buy all her jewels (before she was executed). Another place to look is Ogdens, a family run business that has been going since 1890. Ogdens were closely associated with the renovation of the beautiful ‘Kursaal’, the Royal Hall, and presented His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales with a Breguet watch in 2006 when he visited Harrogate. If your pearls need restringing or your family tiara has lost a stone, Lady Ingilby of the spectacular northern jewel, Ripley Castle, suggests Valerie Jones in Harrogate who can value, clean and repair. Valerie’s husband, Brian, is by all accounts ‘the best room setter in the north’ and can even hang the most random art in an attractive way.
Where to buy a one-off hat
Just off the Cold Bath Road, one of the Harrogate’s most cosmopolitan streets, Jenny Roberts ‘Original British Millinery’ can be found, tucked away and well known to be the best milliner in Yorkshire. At Ellie Goulding and Caspar Jopling’s wedding in 2019, at York Minster followed by a reception at Castle Howard (the real Brideshead), clever Jenny was overrun with commissions, largely from the groom’s family. She made hats for Lady Jopling, Caspar’s granny, and Caspar’s sisters, the very gorgeous Wiz and Connie Warde-Aldam. Lady Ingilby swears by Jenny’s hats and Lady Mowbray (of Allerton Park), too, is a client. She also solves Christmas present palavers by offering hat making courses.
Where to find your florist
Floral designer Twisted Willow arranges at many of the biggest budget Yorkshire weddings and can masterfully fill a large house or marquee with their exquisite blooms. The Harrogate set tend to favour Caine, located on John Street, who specialise in green and white flowers, with the occasional splash of colour as the season’s dictate. Of course, the social choice would be Jo Ropner, who is Lord Lieutenant of North Yorkshire, and a brilliant florist.
Where to get your food
Yorkshire is flooded with exquisite food options. There’s Michelin-starred options like the Black Swan at Oldstead, Tommy Banks’ major food project, and the Star Inn at Harome, near Helmsley, who have both branched into ‘take away’ during lockdown. In Harrogate itself, the social set love Fisk, a recently opened champagne and fish restaurant on Montpellier Mews, a stone’s throw from Betty’s, Yorkshire’s answer to Fortnum’s with their much-loved tea rooms. On a date night, you can’t go wrong at William and Victoria wine bar (fondly known as ‘Will and Vics’) at the bottom of the Cold Bath Road, with over 70 wines available and as a champion of Yorkshire gins, an excellent evening is guaranteed (and an outside seat is best for people watching).
For catering, look no further than Lady G (an actual Lady, as mentioned above) and one of Yorkshire’s best options around for private dining, shoot lunches et al. Or Yorkshire’s finest, the appropriately named Yorkshire Party Company who are efficient and utterly brilliant, of course, they were the choice for Ellie and Caspar’s A-list Yorkshire wedding.
Where to visit
Ripley Castle has been the home of the Ingilby family for 700 years, Sir Thomas, the current owner, is the 6th Baronet, and Ripley itself is surely one of the prettiest villages in the country. But a ten minute drive from Harrogate, it was modelled on a village in northeastern France and the effect is gloriously European. Visit the spectacular, rose-strewn castle gardens and admire the ornamental lakes. Stop off at the delectable tearoom and have an ale at the Boar’s Head. It’s a brilliant place for weddings and parties (in particular those hosted by the Ingilby family themselves). The family are good with themes, Moulin Rouge and Game of Thrones being but two of the family 21sts hosted. The ‘Barn Door’ shoots are good too, the idea is that the big party is the night before, and the following day a ‘Barn Door’ trophy will be presented, for the very worst shot, who is so inaccurate, they could barely shoot a barn door.
Another place to be sure to go is Ripon’s Newby Hall, the seat of Richard and Lucinda Compton. Newby arguably has Yorkshire’s most beautiful gardens complete with a spell-binding shell grotto, designed by Linda Fenwick, the former High Sheriff of North Yorkshire. The herbaceous borders frame the 18th century house gloriously and lead to a sculpture by master craftsman David Williams-Ellis, whose balletic figures captivate, and who has recently become step-father-in-law to Princess Beatrice following her wedding to Edo Mapelli Mozzi.
Where to get your art
Of course, the recently opened Messums is a great shout, where they have an upcoming exhibition, opening 7 May 2021, on Graeme Black entitled Trunk Show. Black, who formerly designed for the likes of Armani and Ferragamo, upped sticks and moved to Yorkshire’s spectacular Raydale to paint full time alongside his partner, interior designer Jonathan Reed and this will mark his first exhibition.
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For original commissions, look no further than Clare Granger, a Harrogate based artist who moves in social circles, or Emily Sutton, the glorious illustrator, whose designs are used for Betty’s Tea Room. Tennants Auctioneers are another great place to look, located in Leyburn, they live in the big house in Middleham, the charming market town where racing supremo Mark Johnston trains his horses.
Where to stay
Rudding Park is a bona fide jewel of a hotel, the Grade I-listed Regency building is located a stone’s throw from the centre of Harrogate, but ensconced within its own rural domain down Rudding Lane. In 2019, it was awarded ‘Spa of the year’ but why not ask one of its famous residents to testify to its greatness, Crown Prince Albert and Princess Charlene of Monaco have stayed, so too have former Presidents Bill Clinton and George Bush Senior. It’s also where the late Duke of Roxburghe did a round of golf before his son, Lord Ted Innes Ker got married. If you want to branch a little further a field, why not stay at Grantley Hall? The ultra hotel that opened last year, following a mega multi-million development project under Valeria Sykes, the ex-wife of one of Yorkshire’s richest men, Paul Sykes.
Directory
Ogdens, 38 James St, Harrogate HG1 1RQ. ogdenharrogate.co.uk
A Fattorini: The Jeweller, 10 Parliament St, Harrogate HG1 2QZ. afattorini.co.uk
Jenny Roberts, Cold Bath Place, Harrogate, HG2 0PQ. jrmillinery.co.uk
Twisted Willow, twistedwillowflorists.co.uk
Caine, 3 John St, Harrogate HG1 1JZ. caineofharrogate.co.uk
Black Swan at Oldstead, Oldstead, York YO61 4BL. blackswanoldstead.co.uk
Star Inn at Harome, Main St, Harome, near Helmsley YO62 5JE. thestaratharome.co.uk
Bettys, 1 Parliament St, Harrogate HG1 2QU. bettys.co.uk
William and Victoria Restaurant and Wine bar, 6 Cold Bath Road, Harrogate, HG2 0NA williamandvictoria.com
Fisk, 1 Montpellier Mews, Harrogate, HG1 2TQ. fiskrestaurants.com
Lady G, ladygscookery.co.uk
Yorkshire Party Company, yorkshireparty.co.uk
Ripley Castle, Ripley, Harrogate HG3 3AY. ripleycastle.co.uk
Newby Hall, Ripon, HG4 5AE. newbyhall.com
Messums, 4-6 James St, Harrogate HG1 1RF. messumsharrogate.com
Clare Granger, claregranger.co.uk
Emily Sutton, emilysutton.co
Rudding Park, Rudding Ln, Follifoot, Harrogate HG3 1JH. ruddingpark.co.uk
Grantley Hall, Ripon HG4 3ET. grantleyhall.co.uk
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