TRAVEL : Prestonpans & Cockenzie Food, Drink & Mural Trail
Welcome to the SOLE Prestonpans/Cockenzie Murals Trail
What is SOLE?
SOLE is a brand new app and site that launched in June in 6 towns within East Lothian. These towns are Musselburgh, Preston/Seton/Gosford, Fa'side, Dunbar , Haddington and North Berwick. SOLE stands for supporting our local economy and the main premise of SOLE is to connect and encourage people who live in these towns to shop locally.
For the businesses to join SOLE is totally free and is another amazing way for businesses of all kinds and community groups to promote themselves and have an extra platform to share on. We have many churches/charities who can also post daily such as children’s clubs.
We have the local community news on the home page which is a section just tailored to your specific town or a town you wish to visit and this is always updated with the newest community stories.
We also have an exciting trails feature which you can do with your children and there are various ‘check in ‘ points such as restaurants or outdoor walks in nature and once you complete this trail you get a prize or a discount. So get clicking on our link and join in www.sole.scot
Tale of the Prestonpans Murals and how it began
The Prestonpans Murals came about around the start of 2001 and all thanks to one man, Baron Gordon Prestoungrange who owns the Prestoungrange Gothenburg.
The murals story is a fascinating one and it all starts in Vancouver Island! In the 1980s Chemainus was a small town on Vancouver Island that was under threat of closure of its sole employer, a saw mill. Faced with such imminent disaster one man, Karl Schutz, resolved to persuade the town to paint its history on its walls to attract tourists. In 2005 Chemainus put itself firmly on the map by attracting 400,000+ visitors each year with an Arts Festival Theatre, a newly built Best Western Hotel and it became the founding town of the Global Murals Association - of which Karl Schutz is President.
Gordon went to meet with Karl and the rest is history. Literally! Gordon managed to gather a group of artists, locally and from across Scotland including myself (Adele Conn). Along with incredibly talented artists we produced well over 60 murals and started to paint the History of Prestonpans on the walls. I’m very privileged to have worked alongside these incredible artists, some still very actively painting in the community today:
Andrew Crummy
Tom Ewing
Kate Hunter
Ronnie Elliot
Jim Cursiter
Linda Whyte
and various other community artists, locals, school children
And so in 2006, when it was Prestonpans turn to host the Global Murals Association Conference, Prestonpans officially became a murals town. Unfortunately, many of the murals are in desperate need of refurbishment due to severe weather but the shadows of paint can still be seen on many walls.
The Prestonpans Murals Trail
This mural trail can be walked, cycled, bussed or driven - its all the same route and pretty much in a straight line along the coastal road from Prestonpans to Cockenzie. All the mural sites are assessible to some degree and I have tried to include as much info as possible. They are also all dog friendly, including food and drink stops along the way.
I start the Murals Trail in Prestonpans working my way along the main road to Cockenzie. You can of course do this in reverse or in any order you wish. Click on the Google Map below to see exactly where all the murals and recommended food stops are. You’ll also be able to see the bus stops and how easy it is to view these murals
PRESTONGRANGE MUSEUM - MURAL AND FOOD/DRINK STOP
For over 400 years Prestongrange was a focus of industry. A harbour, glass works, pottery, colliery and brickworks have all left their marks on the landscape including winding gear, a vast brick kiln and a Cornish beam engine. Cradled by woodland the site is now a haven for wildlife where you can explore these monumental relics of Scotland's industrial heritage.
You can visit the museum all year round, its free; but worth visiting in the Summer months when the Visitor Centre is open and you can view the exhibition and view the Prestongange Man Mural.
The Pithead Canteen Cafe is a perfect starting point for your mural trail. They have limited snacks but great snacks including this incredible hot chocolate with all the toppings and a giant cookie!
ON FOOT - Just off the John Muir Walkway. Easy to walk around this site and onto the next mural stop. Predominantly flat.
CYCLE - Plenty places to leave or lock up your bicycles but also the walk is easy enough to take your bicycle with you.
BUS - The bus stop is on the B1347 (the main road into Prestonpans via Musselburgh from Edinburgh). Catch the No26 to either Tranent or Seton Sands and the bus stop is right outside the museum.
CAR - plenty of free parking space and coaches are welcome.
DISABLED - the cafe has disabled access and is wheelchair friendly. There is a disabled toilet. Some murals are not accessible.
DOG FRIENDLY - dogs are welcome.
THE PRESTONGRANGE MAN by Andrew Crummy
You’ll find this mural inside the museum and cafe on the back wall. The museum is free and well worth a look around. This mural depicts a miner crawling through a mine, chiselling away the coal, showing the many parts of mining life including women and children who used to work in the mine as well as other industries that made up “the birth place of the Scottish Industrial Revolution”. The mural is black and white to represent the industries that were the bedrock of this community – coal and salt.
THE BATH HOUSE MURALS by Tom Ewing
On the road side of the museum and bath house there are 22 window murals which were created by Tom Ewing and a team of local artists. The murals depicts the history of The Mining Museum which includes Mining, Salt production, Brickworks, Pottery Kilns and Morrisons Haven Harbour. The murals are painted on boards and are looking slightly weather beaten but you can still make out the murals.
PRESTONPANS BOWLING CLUB - MURAL STOP
ON FOOT - Just off the John Muir Walkway.
CYCLE - A stay on your bicycle stop. There is plenty of space in front of both murals or you can stop in the field opposite the bowling club.
BUS - The bus stops right here. Catch the No26 to either Tranent or Seton Sands
CAR - Plenty of free parking space in front of the murals.
DISABLED - The ground is flat if somewhat uneven.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome as this is an outdoor mural.
THE BING BOYS by Linda Whyte
The Bing Boys mural is a tribute to sports in Prestonpans, but more so to bowls and football. The Bing Boys were famous amongst those that lived in Prestonpans for playing footie on the bing. Lynda Whyte has successfully combined the sporting images of bowling and football, with an image of the oldest living bowler and portraits of the 5 Bing Boys. A poem accompanies this mural written by Annette Gilmore from the Prestonpans Historical Society.
PRESTON HAND by Tom Ewing
Painted by Tom Ewing in 2007, this mural represents the industries that have created the town of Prestonpans. It features Saltmaking, Fishing, Pottery, Mining and as it is painted on the wall of The Prestongrange Bowling Club features a bowl.
CUTHILL PARK - MURAL STOP
ON FOOT - Just off the John Muir Walkway. Easy to walk around this site and onto the next mural stop. Predominantly flat.
CYCLE - Plenty places to leave or lock up your bicycles but also the walk is easy enough to take your bicycle with you.
BUS - Use the Bowling Club stop and walk around the corner to the park. Catch the No26 to either Tranent or Seton Sands.
CAR - Plenty of free parking space outside on the road.
DISABLED - The site is even with a tarmac pathway to the play park and a fine gravel surface past the murals.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome in the park.
WITCH by Tom Ewing
This particular mural depicts the trial of the Prestonpans witches held at the Tolbooth in Edinburgh. Here you see Agnes Sampson – the accused, King James VI ruling over the proceedings and John Fian, a man accused of witchcraft. In 2004 the Baron of Prestoungrange granted an Absolute Pardon to the 81 men, women, children and their cats from Prestonpans/Port Seton area that were accused of witchcraft. The Baron was able to grant them an absolute pardon from the act of witchcraft but not from treason, as the Queen declined this request!
PRESTONPANS SKYLINE led by Tom Ewing and other artists
This was part of the Prestonpans Murals Festival in 2007 - a mural in a day. The theme is Prestonpans Skyline painted by lead artist Tom Ewing and follow artists Paul Dalrymple, David Hood, Sally Richardson and Zoe Inglis.
HIGH STREET - MURAL STOP
Back onto the High Street, we continue the journey.
ON FOOT - Pavements on both sides of the road. Approx 4-5 minute walk from Cuthill Park.
CYCLE - A stay on you bicycle stop, either up close or from the opposite side of the road.
BUS - Catch the No26 to either Tranent or Seton Sands and it stops just before the mural.
CAR - Plenty of free parking space on either side of the road.
DISABLED - Pavements on either side of the road.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome.
SUMMERLEE by Tom Ewing
This is a large mural that continues around the side. Painted in sepia tones this mural depicts the district of Prestonpans called Summerlee, which was built to house the migrant mining community that settled in Prestonpans. The Mural also features Cuthill School and school children.
PRESTOUNGRANGE GOTHENBURG - MURAL AND FOOD/DRINK STOP
The Prestoungrange Gothenburg, James Fewell Bar is a perfect stop to quench your thirst. The Goth, as it will always be known, was built in 1908 as a public house and was synonymous with the Temperance movement which is the attempt to control the consumption of spirits. Any profits made by the owners of the ‘Goth’ public houses, would be reinvested back into the community. This is the principal on which the Prestoungrange Gothenburg was established in 2002.
The James Fewell bar is absolutely superb with its horseshow shaped carved wooden bar, green tiles and a micro brewery. You’ll find special ales on tap here. When you walk into the bar, do look up!
ON FOOT - Just off the John Muir Walkway from the beach. Easy to walk around this site and onto the next mural stop.
CYCLE - Plenty places to leave or lock up your bicycles. The courtyard or the carpark might be best.
BUS - The bus stop is on the High Street directly opposite the Goth. Catch the No26 to either Tranent or Seton Sands.
CAR - Plenty of free parking space in their dedicated carpark located across the road from the Goth.
DISABLED - Disabled access is best via the courtyard. There is a disabled toilet.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome outside in the courtyard.
TOTEM POLE by Tom Ewing, Kenny Grieve and Community
This totem pole was a gift to Prestonpans and the Prestoungrange Arts Festival (a charity arm of the Prestoungrange Gothenburg) was responsible for creating it. It’s made from a giant red cedar that was shipped to the Pans from Chemainus, Canada in early 2005. This 40' log was carved by veteran Scottish carver Kenny Grieve and two First Nation Canadian Indians, Xwa Lack Tun and Tawx'sin Yexwullo [alias Splash]. Its home is now in the Prestoungrange Gothenburg car park.
DIASPORA by Andrew Crummy
Andrew Crummy is the designer behind the Battle of Prestonpans Tapestry which then led to the Great Tapestry of Scotland and now Andrew has completed over 18 tapestries. This mural celebrates Scots and their families all over the world ~ We’re all Jock Tamsons Bairns!
PRESTOUNGRANGE CEILING by Andrew Crummy
This is why you need to look up! The Prestoungrange Ceiling was Andrew Crummys ‘Leonardo Da Vinci’s’ moment (lying on his back or crouched down atop scaffolding for months on end). The original Prestongrange painted timber ceiling dates back to 1581 believed to be the earliest example of a Renaissance painted ceiling in Scotland. It has received a contemporary interpretation on the ceiling of the James Fewell Bar. Andrew Crummy has incorporated a number of current portraits in the work including myself. I worked at the Goth as the Montjoye! (marketing).
JAMES FEWEL by Kate Hunter
James Fewell became manager of the Gothenburg shortly after it opened in 1908 and stayed for the next 19 years. The main bar is named in his honour and his tenure is documented in Kate Hunter’s small mural above the fireplace. James Fewell’s portrait dominates the mural, which also features his wife and two daughters and an article from the local paper from 1908 announcing the opening of the premises.
BRAWLING WOMEN by Wei Luan
Completed by Wei Luan in 2004, it depicts three woman having a drunken brawl in a bar! The mural was painted at The Moosejaw Globals Murals conference in 2004 as part of a mural competition. Wei is recognised as one of The United States top portrait artists. He has painted many large scale murals around the world.
PRIDE OF THE PANNERS by Kate Hunter
At the gallery staircase entrance to the Thomas Nelson Suite, you’ll find this mural by Kate Hunter called “A Pride of Panners”. This mural is based on “A Midnight Modern Conversation” an etching by William Hogarth, and the historical booklet by Bob Hoskins. These characters all played a part in Prestonpans history and are depicted in the modern function room of today's Gothenburg Tavern. Thomas Alexander, Alexander Hume, Sir Walter Scott, John Muir, James Schaw, Lady Susan and Lord Grange.
THE BATTLE by Tom Ewing
This mural was painted live during on of the Battle of Prestonpans Reinactment 2015.
WITCHES GATES by Tom Ewing
Outside in the courtyard we encounter the start of the most controversial trail -The 81 Witches of Prestonpans. The Witches Gate, painted by Tom Ewing, shows two of the main characters in the witch-hunts. Mary Queen of Scots signed the Scottish Witchcraft Act of 1563 and Scotland's most famous reformation minister, John Knox is one of the portraits you’ll see here. The other is that of Gellie Duncan, a servant who was accused of witchcraft and ignited the North Berwick Witch Trails.
WITCHES EXPERIENCE by Andrew Crummy
Around the back of the courtyard you’ll find a series of murals, portraits and a memorial to the 81 men, women and children who were put to death under the Witchcraft Act. Andrew Crummy, Adele Robertson and June Coull painted these fantastic human images. On the back doors to the kitchen you will also see faces of Winston Churchill and Helen Duncan, a Scot and the last lady to be imprisoned for witchcraft in Britain in 1944, who has never been pardoned!
REDBURN ROAD - MURAL STOP
ON FOOT - Across the road from the Goth. Pavements on both sides of the road.
CYCLE - This can be a stay on your bicycle stop or leave your bicycles at the Goth whilst you look around all the murals in this area.
BUS - Same bus stop for the Goth. Catch the No26 to either Tranent or Seton Sands.
CAR - Plenty of free parking space on either side of the road.
DISABLED - Pavements on either side of the road.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome.
REDBURN DAIRY by Adele Conn
This mural was painted by myself, Adele Conn. Redburn Dairy once stood here at the corner of Redburn Road and the High Street making it the ideal subject for me as I use to live across the road in the white house by the beach. Tom McKinlay, as a younger man ran the Dairy which stretched inland to Rope Walk Road. He delivered milk in this multi-purpose cart. The Red Burn, after which the dairy and the road were named, was a geographical feature and people along its length dug out catchments for different purposes. The burn is now completely out of sight.
REDBURN COW by Adele Conn
Another by myself as I continue the Redburn Dairy theme around the corner. A close up view of one of the dairy cows with the view over the Forth in the background. And as if 2 murals about the dairy weren't enough I also painted on the the 3D cows which was part of the Edinburgh 2006 Cow Parade trail and tie in wonderfully with the historical Redburn Dairy.
HIGH STREET, BEACH - MURAL STOP
There use to be a series of murals painted by Andrew Crummy and the local community and school children along the beach wall but with the recent aggressive storms over the past few years, the plaster and the murals have all but disappeared. The only one that remains slightly visible is the Morrisons Haven.
ON FOOT - Across the road from the Goth towards the beach wall.
CYCLE - This can be a stay on your bicycle stop or leave your bicycles at the Goth whilst you look around all the murals in this area.
BUS - Same bus stop for the Goth. Catch the No26 to either Tranent or Seton Sands.
CAR - Plenty of free parking space in the Goth carpark.
DISABLED - You need to remain on the pavement as there is no disabled access down to the bench infront of the John Muir Mural nor onto the beach to see Morisons Haven. But either can be viewed well from the pavement.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome.
JOHN MUIR AND THE GOTHENBURG by Ronnie Elliot
Just before you head down to the beach, you come face to face with the Ronnie Elliot mural, which combines East Lothian’s long established trade links with Gothenburg in Sweden, and the founding father of America's national parks, John Muir. The mural was originally painted by Kate Hunter but had to be restored. Ronnie took on the mural to create a similar depiction of Kate’s original mural.
MORRISONS HAVEN by Kate Hunter
You can either descend the steps to the shore, or check out Kate Hunter's vision of the range of industrial activity surrounding Morison's Haven harbour over the centuries from the bench by Ronnie Elliots mural. This was the first of the Prestonpans murals, completed on October 2001. The harbour was established to ship the produce of Prestongrange to various locations throughout Britain and beyond. Coal, pottery, vitriol and salt were exported in exchange for timber and other essentials to maintain industry as well as luxury items such as tobacco, silks, parlour birds and exotic plants.
THE CO-OPERATIVE CARPARK - MURAL STOP
Although this is just a mural stop, my recommended food and drink stop is opposite the Co-Op at the Filling Station.
ON FOOT - Continue walking along Prestonpans High Street. Pavements on both sides of the road.
CYCLE - Although this is a stay on your bicycle stop, lock up your bike here, view the murals and head across the road to purchase something to eat and drink.
BUS - There is a bus stop just before the Co-op. Catch the No26 to either Tranent or Seton Sands.
CAR - Plenty of free parking space in the Co-op carpark.
DISABLED - Disabled parking bays available in the Co-op carpark.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome.
CO-OP by Tom Ewing
This mural took only 6 weeks to complete -this mural is situated on the outside wall of Scotmid in the car park just off Prestonpans beach. Tom worked from an old photo of the Co-op circa 1910, which shows the staff posing outside the shop. Although the shop in the photo is no longer there, it was situated right next door to the site of the mural.
MULTICULTURAL FOOD by Tom Ewing
On the opposite side of the carpark you will find another one of Tom Ewing’s masterpieces, the Multi-Cultural Food Mural. This mural shows food as an international language and an Indian curry is one of Scotland's favourite dishes. In this mural we see the all-important “Take-Away’s”. In the centre of the mural we have the Mercat Cross of Prestonpans, where the market garden and food stall holders congregated weekly to sell their produce, and a place where international food may have been introduced to locals.
SALTERS by Kate Hunter
In this carpark you will also find the Salters mural painted in 2002 by Kate Hunter. The salt mural tells the tale of the salt making process in Prestonpans with references taken from photos. The majority of the people depicted have been identified. The central feature is the arched doorway of the salt works, the only remaining wall of the original building. Prestonpans is known as “The Pans” because of its salt panning industry.
THE FILLING STATION, HIGH STREET - FOOD AND DRINK STOP
Grab yourself a quick bite to eat from this very popular cafe. There is no sit in available, take away only, but they have the full range of breakfast, brunch and lunch options like filled rolls and baguettes, soups, pies, bakes tatties, tea, coffee etc.
Our tummies were rumbling at this point on the trail so we chose the homemade Sausage Roll (superb) and a toasted cheese baguette. We couldn’t wait to eat them, but held off until our next stop which is the perfect place to rest!
AIRTS BURNS SHELTER, HIGH STREET - MURAL STOP
Your next stop is further along the High Street, through the traffic lights. It’s an open space/park with sculptures by Leslie Frank Chorlie and also home to the Airts Burns Shelter. Great views over the Forth with the sea wall as your barrier.
ON FOOT - Continue walking along Prestonpans High Street. Pavements on both sides of the road.
CYCLE - This can be a stay on your bicycle stop or a lunch stop. Plenty of space for bicycles.
BUS - There is a bus stop close by. Catch the No26 to Seton Sands. The No26 to Tranent goes another route.
CAR - Free parking on the roads.
DISABLED - Free parking on the roads. The path is tarmac and level.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome.
TAM O SHANTER by Kate Hunter
The mural depicts the interpretation of poem Tam O'Shanter by Scotland's famous Bard, Rabbie Burns. The tale of Tam O'Shanter is told chronologically. Conveyed at a fast pace and flow with the images getting wilder and increasingly red in colour, as the mural draws to its moralistic conclusion. The only attractive witch (and the culprit of Tams downfall) is the one figure in over 50. The Shelter is well lit at night-time and this is when it is best viewed.
EDINBURGH ROAD, OLD COCKENZIE POWER STATION - MURAL STOP
Continue along the High Street, out of Prestonpans and onwards towards Cockenzie remaining on the coastal road. This is the last mural stop along this Murals Trail but you do have another stop which is the best place on the trail for food.
ON FOOT - Continue walking along Prestonpans High Street. Pavements on both sides of the road.
CYCLE - This is a stay on on bicycle stop.
BUS - There is a bus stop close by. Catch the No26 to Seton Sands. The No26 to Tranent goes another route.
CAR - Free parking in the old entrance way to the Power station.
DISABLED - Free parking in the old entrance way to the Power station. There is no path but the mural can be easily viewed from the road.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome.
COCKENZIE PROCESSION by Andrew Crummy
This mural depicts a procession based on the annual Gala Queen parade and The Box Meeting. The parade contains all the main elements of Cockenzie including the fishing and mining industries, the monks who started salt panning and the various famous people from Cockenzie. It also shows off some of the main machinery that was used in the Power Station.
CAFE FILLY, COCKENZIE HOUSE - FOOD AND DRINK STOP
That’s this mural trail complete and now its time for a well deserved brunch/lunch/afternoon treat depending on which direction you are doing the trail - this could be your first stop, in which case I suggest a breakfast or it could be your last stop and so I suggest either lunch or a cake and tea!
ON FOOT - Continue walking into Cockenzie. Pavements on both sides of the road.
CYCLE - There is plenty of spaces to secure your bicycle.
BUS - There is a bus stop close by. Catch the No26 to Seton Sands. The No26 to Tranent goes another route.
CAR - There is plenty of free parking in the street.
DISABLED - Free parking in the street. There is a pathway into Cockenzie House and a disabled lift to take you to the cafe. There are also disabled toilets.
DOG FRIENDLY - Dogs are welcome in the gardens and the cafe.
Cafe Filly is located inside Cockenzie House which is about a 5 minute walk from the Cockenzie Power Station mural. I’ve been back a few times to Cafe Filly, enjoying their selection of top notch cakes and treats, but also for lunch. Their Chicken Mayo Toastie Sandwich and the Vegan Mouthful with giant couscous, falafel, avo, humus and salads are highly recommended.
Do go for a walk around the gardens, they are beautiful and its a gorgeous oasis. They have superb allotments that you can wander around too. Cockenzie House is bustling with creativity - do have a look in their gallery and shop for some wonderful crafts and items that are for sale by local artists. As you wander, peer over a shoulder of many artists painting in the gardens or just enjoy a cuppa coffee or a cocktail from vendors that set up on weekends when there is live music to be seen and heard.
OTHER MURALS
There are more murals in Prestonpans and Cockenzie which I haven’t included in this trail, only because they are located in obscure places and don’t connect with the ease of this trail. You are welcome to visit these murals
SIR JOHNNY COPE TAKES FLIGHT, PRESTONPANS PRIMARY SCHOOL by Andrew Crummy. This is located in the primary school playground but visible from Preston Road.
HUNDRED THOUSAND WELCOMES, PRESTONPANS TRAIN STATION by myself, Adele Conn.
There are a few murals here, located in the old ticket office, which is now a walkway onto the platform and mural panels all along the platform. The mural boards on the platform are in desperate need of replacement, and there are talks with Prestonpans Community Council and Network Rail for myself and many other local artists to replace these. Watch this space!
THE CORNISH BEAM ENGINE, PRESTONGRANGE MUSEUM by Jim Cursiter. I haven’t included this mural although we start here at the museum, due to the fact that it has faded considerably and there are only remnants now of the mural.
PRESTONPANS SPORTS MURAL, PENNYPIT COMMUNITY CENTRE by Tom Ewing. This mural shows off famous sports people from Prestonpans including our current most famous boxer, Josh Taylor and my uncle, Alfie Conn who played for Rangers FC.
GABLE END, TILE MURAL, PORT SETON HARBOUR. Unknown.
OTHER PLACES TO EAT BETWEEN PRESTONPANS AND COCKENZIE
Alandas Fish n Chips, Prestonpans
Seaglass Inn, Port Seton
The Prestoungrange Gothenburg
Baynes Bakers
I loved being back in Prestonpans and Cockenzie in East Lothian. It brought back so many memories and I love that the murals have survived even if some what battered. Painting some of these murals brought me immense joy as they are historical and often led to me painting portraits of family members of families who still remain in the area. I loved talking to them, finding out about their ancestors and listening to all the stories they were told. It really helped me design and pull together ideas for the murals.
As I mentioned before, there have been well over 60 murals painted in Prestonpans; some haven’t survived and some painted over as they were only meant to be on view for a short period of time. I do hope that new murals will spring up and that some of the old ones be refurbished or painted over. It’s such a lovely idea to paint the history of a town on its walls - I reckon Prestonpans is one of very few towns where the walls do talk!
Have you visited the murals? Which is your favourite?
This is a sponsored post for SOLE East Lothian.