Gardener's World expert Alys Fowler on what to do in November

By Alys Fowler
Updated:


  • Now is a good time to renovate your herbaceous section. Divide big clumps of geraniums, phlox, sedum and achillea. Most falling leaves and autumn foliage can be left as a habitat for insects, but layers of wet leaves over the crowns of certain herbaceous plants should be removed. 
  • Plant bare-root roses early in the month when the soil is still warm enough for the roots to grow. Continue to plant tulips, and cover ponds with netting to protect against falling leaves.
  • Houseplants will need much less water at this time of year, and those kept on windowsills might need moving to warmer conditions.
Plant bare-root roses early in the month, says Alys Fowler

Tip for November: Plant bare-root roses early in the month, says Alys Fowler

TREES AND SHRUBS

  • Continue to plant deciduous trees and shrubs in good weather. Do not plant if the soil is saturated.
  • You can take 8in hardwood cuttings of currants (including flowering kinds) and insets into open ground or a large pot with compost. 

VEGETABLES

  • Continue to dig manure and compost into bare beds.
  • Sow broad beans for an early crop - Aquadulce Claudia and Super Aquadulce are excellent for autumn sowing and even better started under cloches or tunnels. Watch out for mice (you can use holly clippings inserted into the soil over the seeds) or start off in large modules and plant out when the soil is workable in spring.
  • If you've sown parsley in September for winter use, cover with cloches, fleece or tunnels now to ensure tender leaves all winter long.
  • Trim any withered growth around globe artichokes and draw soil or grit around the crowns. Young plants can suffer in winter - if in doubt cover with straw and netting.

FRUIT

  • Container-grown fruit trees and bushes can be planted at any time of year, but November is the start of the bareroot season. (These plants are often sent mail-order and come with bare roots and no soil.) If it is too wet or cold for planting, store them in a frost-free shed (keep the roots wrapped) or heel them into a spare vegetable bed. The roots can be stored before planting. Plant firmly to exactly the same depth as the trees were grown at the nursery, and stake. Fruit trees should have an upright stake (8in long) so the graft does not rock about in the wind.
  • Clear weeds from around established fruit trees and mulch them, though not all the way up to the stem, or the bark may rot. Winter prune established apples and pear trees by first removing any dead, diseased or dying material, then any crossing branches. Cut just above a bud that points away from the trunk.
  • Be sure to cut out any canker on apples and pears.
  • Blackcurrants: prune older plants by removing a third of the oldest stems (which are usually grey rather than brown) and leaving as much new growth as possible.
  • Gooseberries and red and white currant bushes: remove any weak growth and shorten the leaders by half and any lateral branches to about 2½in long.
  • Inspect stored apples and pears regularly for rot.

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