US2835908A - Shoe fitting - Google Patents

Description

May 27, 1958 v s, MOTT 2,835,908

SHOE FITTING Filed Dec. 21. 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIGZ. FIGJ.

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SHOE FITTING Filed Dec. 21, 1953 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 A TraEMQa United States Patent SHOE FITTING Howard V. S. Mott, La Grange, Mo.

Application December 21, 1953, Serial No. 399,490

2 Claims. (Cl. 12--142) This invention relates generally to the manufacture of shoes, and particularly to the gradation and sizing of insoles and lasts to the end that more perfect fitting of shoes to feet will be accomplished.

In the manufacture of shoes, the size and shape is initially controlled by the size and shape of the last on which the shoe is made. After the shoe is removed from the last, however, the insole is the element depended upon to maintain the flexible parts, such as the upper, to the size and shape initially dictated by the last.

The size of a shoe, which is conventionally in dicated by a numeral, is an indication of the length of the shoe relative to a constant; the various size numerals indicate that so many increments have been added to, or subtracted from, a constant (arbitrary) dimension of over-all or stick-length for a given shoe size.

The width of a shoe, which is usually indicated by one or more alphabetical characters, is likewise conventionally controlled from a constant dimension measured in a direction transversely of the shoe, and the various width designations indicate that so many increments have been added to, or subtracted from, the constant in order to achieve the stated width for a given size.

Despite various efforts, at various times, to standardize the measurement of shoes, it remains a fact that while a shoe of a given size and width from one manufacturer may fit a given foot with reasonable comfort, a shoe of the same indicated size and width from another manufacturer is, more frequently than not, either too large or too small for that foot. Indeed, shoes from the same manufacturer frequently differ as between different styles in actual width and actual size, although the designations may be the same.

In order to fully comprehend the following discussion, certain expressions require precise definition:

The expression inner ball border, has reference to 4 that portion of the periphery of the fore part of an insole (or last) which makes contact with an inside tangent. By inside tangent is meant a straight line making tangential contact with the insole periphery at both the heel and the fore part thereof, on the inside thereof.

By inside, is meant the left side for the right side for the left foot.

The outer ball border is that portion of the periphery of the fore part of an insole (or last) which makes contact with a straight line parallel with the inside tangent but making tangential contact with the insole periphery at the fore part thereof on the outside. By outside, is meant the side opposite the inside.

The expression ball line, as used herein, is a line extending between the outer ball border and the inner ball border of an insole, last, or shoe.

From X-ray examination of numerous mature feet, I have ascertained that (with the inside of the foot placed against a straight edge so as to make contact at the fore part as well as at the heel) the lateral aspect of the distal end of the fifth metatarsal is, in more than eighty-five percent of the normal feet which I have examined, be-

the right foot, or

2,835,968 Patented May 27, 1958 ice tween three-quarters of an inch and an inch and a quarter (measured parallel with said straight edge) heelwardly of the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal, abnormalities excepted. This last-mentioned distance is hereinafter termed recession and is applicable to insoles, lasts, and shoes, as well as to feet. My observations indicate that this order of recession holds true regardless of the overall length of the foot, and regardless of the width thereof, with notably few exceptions among normal mature feet. The diagonal line extending across a foot between the lateral aspect of the distal end of the fifth metatarsal and the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal is herein called the ball line of the foot.

Optimum comfort is achieved when a shoe is fitted to a foot so that the ball line of the foot is coincident with the ball line of the shoe, which latter is dictated by the ball line of the last on which it is made, and the ball line of the insole embodied in it. Such coincidence of the ball line of the foot with the ball line is rarely achieved, and then only by happenstance, in factory run (as distinguished from custom made) shoes because, in practice, it has not been realized that the angularity of the ball line of the foot, as well as of a shoe, with respect to a straight edge placed as aforesaid, depends not only upon the degree of recession, but also upon the width as measured along the ball line. Consequently the extreme widths of insoles, lasts, and shoes, do not coincide with the foots triangularity.

It has been previously proposed, as, for example, in the Tuinder Patent No. 1,362,157, to improve the fitting of shoes by fixation of a definite angle for the ball line, and constructing the shoes so as to flex along that ball line. In said Tuinder patent, it was proposed that such ball line be extended at an angle of 70 with an axis line extending between the tip of the toe and the tip of the heel. In arriving at the location of this axis line, however, it was proposed to position the ball line arbitrarily so as to intersect the axis line at one-third of the total distance heelwardly from the tip of the toe. The intersections of the ball line with the opposite peripheries of the insole, which were equidistant from the axis line were thus entirely dependent upon the overall length of the sole, including the toe portion, which latter is subject, in practice, to wide variation in the interests of style, and which, in fact, has naught to do with the correct fitting of a shoe, provided only that the toe room provided be adequate. Not only was the lengthwise position of the ball line affected by the contour of the toe, but according to the Tuinder method, the angularity of the ball line with reference to an inside tangent is also affected. On the latter point, it is noteworthy that the angle shown in the Tuinder patent between the ball line and an inside tangent is but 63". In order to avoid the manifestations of ill fitting in walking, it is essential that the shoe be so shaped as to snugly fit the font at the section occupied by the heads of the metatarsals which transmit the body weight and force of walking to the shoe. If the shoe does not snugly fit the foot at this section, the loading of the foot during walking drives the foot forward in the shoe, and brings the toes, or some portions thereof, into thrust transmitting engagement with the interior of the shoe upper. On the other hand, if the shoe snugly fits both the medial and lateral aspects of the foot at the metatarsal head areas, the Walking thrust is transferred to the interior of the shoe adjacent the metatarsal heads, where the foot structure and tissue is best fitted and able to sustain it, and the structure and tissue forwardly thereof is relieved of the strain, unnecessary pressure and friction.

In order to assure snug fitting of the shoe at the metatarsal head areas, it is therefore essential that the insole be so proportioned and contoured that the ball line of the insole is substantially coincident with the ball line of the foot occupying the shoe, but this result cannot be accomplished by the arbitrary selection of a certain angularity for the ball line and any effort to improve the fitting of the shoes by the fixation of a definite angle for the ball line results, in most cases, in more harm than good, because even if the angularity was correct for one size and width, it would be wrong for all other sizes and all other widths of that size in the same family of insoles, lasts, or shoes. Hence the fixation of any certain ball line angle results, in the majority of cases, in a situation Where if the inner ball border of the insole hap pens, pcrchance, to coincide with the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal, the outer ball border of the insole will seldom coincide with the lateral aspect of the distal end of the fifth metatarsal, and 'icc-versa. Furthermore, when, as in the Tninder patent, the disposition of the ball line of the shoe is made dependent upon the extent and shape of the toe tip, the probability of such coincidence, either at the outside or at the inside, is reduced almost to nil.

The word family, as used herein in connection with shoes, insoles and lasts, will be understood to embrace the several sizes and widths of a given pattern. The contour of the respective members of a family is usually determined by taking a model pattern and then adding to it, or subtracting from it certain marginal increments which is called extension. For example, in adults shoes it is conventional that one-sixteenth inch laterally and one-twenty-fourth inch longitudinally be added (or subtracted) between widths, and that two-twelfth inch be added (or subtracted) longitudinally and one-twentyfourth inch be added (or subtracted) laterally between half sizes.

The object of the present invention, generally stated, is to improve the fitting of shoes.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method of sizing and grading shoes wherein the dimensions are taken between points and in directions which are critical in the fitting of shoes. 7

Other objects and advantages will become apparent to those skilled in the art when the following description is read in connection with the accompanying drawing in which:

Figure l is a diagram of an insole dimensioned in accordance with the present invention, and illustrating the manner of measuring the same in accordance with the present invention;

Figure 2 is a diagram showing in superposed relationship the peripheral outlines, and ball lines, of a plurality of members of a family of insoles proportioned in accordance with this invention; and

Figure 3 is a diagram showing the extremes of the insoles in the family shown in Figure 2 but superposed in a different manner to show the constancy of recession throughout the family.

In accordance with the present invention a family of shoes, lasts, or insoles is constructed so that all members of the family have the same recession (preferably one inch) regardless of size (length) or width. Thus the angularity of the ball line (with respect to the inside tangent) will be less in a narrow member of the family than in wider members of the family. The standardization of recession in a given family of shoes effects a closer conformity with average foot anatomy than any standardization of the angularity of the ball line of the shoe because the angularity of the ball line of narrow feet is sharply different (on the average) from the angularity of the ball line of wide feet, yet the recession is remarkably constant irrespective of the width of mature normal feet.

While the preferred recession of one inch is adaptable to the majority of present day shoe patterns of the conservative type, it is to be understood that the optimum recession for a family is to some extent dependent upon the styling of the familys model last and consequently the recession may be small as a half inch or as great as an inch and a quarter, provided that in any given family the recession is constant.

In order to take full advantage of the constancy of recession, the invention further contemplates that shoe lengths be measured along the inside tangent between a perpendicular thereto (herein called a base line) which is tangent with the heel contour at its extreme rear, and the inner ball border. The length and shape of the toe is thus ignored in sizing and fitting provided the toe room be adequate. Thus all mens size 7s (for example), regardless of width, will have the same length (e. g., 7%. inches), and all Womens size 4s (for example), regardless of width, will have the length (e. g., 6% inches) when thus measured; and larger or smaller sizes (lengths) will differ therefrom by plus or minus standard increments (e. g., 7 inch per size). By thus eliminating the variation in heel to inner ball length which now occurs among the several widths of shoes of the same size, it becomes possible to eliminate the so-. called half-sizes without adversely affecting lengthwise fitability. This is because there is usually the same variation in stick-length between a conventional 7A and 7E as there is between a conventional 7A and 7 /zA whereas, when lengths are measured according to this invention the stick-length of a size 7 may be as great as the stick-length of a conventional size 10 without affecting the comfort of fitting. When length is measured according to this invention, it the increments between sizes be as much as twice the increments between conventional half-sizes more comfortable fitting is achieved because it is infinitely more important to comfort that the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal of the foot be within a sixth of an inch of the inner ball border of the shoe, than that the end of the big toe "be within a sixth of an inch of the tip of the shoe. However, if the increments between sizes measured according to the present invention be reduced to W inch, for example, as preferred, then some size will always come within inch of matching the heel to inner 'ball measurement of any given foot, an accuracy of fitting, atthe ball, which is rarely, and then only accidentally; achieved with conventional shoes whose stick-lengths,.-by half-sizes, are designed to come within inch of matching the stick-length of any given foot. The method of measuring lasts from heel to inner ball, as above described, while of special importance in connection with the maintenance of constant recession, as aforesaid, may be used with advantage to improve lengthwise fitting of shoes without constant recession. The medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal may be readily identified on any foot even by a layman, and hence if the heel be placed in a square angle one leg (base line) of which is tangent with the rear of the heel and the other leg (inside tangent) of which is tangent with both the inside of the heel and the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal the distance, along the second mentioned leg (inside tangent) between the first mentioned leg (base line) and the point of tangence with the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal, may readily be measured. Given shoes whose lasts and insoles were measured in the same manner (so that the corresponding dimension is known or ascertainable) it is a simple matter to select the size of shoe which cor- ;esponds most nearly to the measured dimension of the cot.

A further feature of the invention involves the taking of the so-called ball girth measurement of a last along the ball line, and in particular the measurement of width (of insoles, lasts, and shoes) along said linerather than in approximate perpendicularity to an im aginary center line of the insole or last. obliquity of the ball line with respect to the direction along which width and ball girth measurements have Due to the heretofore been taken, the finite measurements of these two dimensions will, according to the present invention exceed those heretofore common in the art. Furthermore at a recession of about an inch the obliquity of the ball line is greater than has heretofore been common and that factor adds further to the finite measurement of ball girth and width, particularly in the narrower members of a family when the obliquity is greater than in wider members having the same recession. The measurement of width along the ball line (with proper indication thereof on the finished shoe) also facilitates comfortable fitting because any foot may readily be measured to ascertain the distance between the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal and the lateral aspect of the distal end of the fifth. This ball line of the foot is, under optimum fitting conditions, coincident with the hall line of the shoe or insole and consequently the two may be readily matched to the nearest Width increment. Measurement of the width dimension along the ball line makes it possible to reduce the number of conventional width variations by about one-fourth, without changing the incremental differences between width A and B, B and C, etc., as heretofore practiced. For example the increase in width, as conventionally measured, by ten percent only increases the width, as measured along the ball line according to this invention, by about seven or eight percent depending upon the obliquity of the ball line; and consequently there is less finite difference between the maximum and minimum widths (in a given size) when measured according to the present invention than when measured in the conventional manner. The measurement of widths along the ball line has a further advantage when the foot being fitted is measured in such manner that its recession may be noted, in that (in fitting shoe from a family having a recession of one inch, for example) if the measured width of the foot (along the ball line) falls between the finite width of B andC (for example) the narrower will be appropriate if the recession of the foot is greater than one inchthe wider will be appropriate if the recession of the foot.is less than one inch. As a practical matter feet having recession of between inch and 1% inches can with few exceptions be comfortably fitted in shoes having a recession of 1 inch when length and width of both last (and insole) and feet are measured as aforesaid.

The invention also contemplates that the so-called waist girth measurement of lasts be taken parallel with the ball line, and hence this dimension is finitely greater in lasts proportioned according to this invention than in conventional lasts, due to the obliquity of the measurement.

A convenient way to measure feet in a conformity with the present invention is to plant the foot (with the weight on it) upon a piece of paper and draw a pencil line about the foot; then fit the outline into the corner of a square whose one leg (base line) is tangent with the heel end of the outline while the other leg (inside tangent) is tangent with the medial aspect of the outline both at the heel and at the forepart; and then draw a parallel (outside tangent) to the inside tangent so that the parallel is tangent with the outside of the outline. The distance between the base line and the point of tangence between the forepart and the inside tangent is the length; the distance between the two points of tangence at opposite sides of the forepart is the width; and the difference between the length and distance from the point of tangence on the outside tangent to the base line is the recession.

Consequently, the invention contemplates a family of insoles, lasts and shoes which differ from each other in length (measured as aforesaid) and in width (measured as aforesaid), but with constant recession. However the invention also envisions related families of shoes wherein there may be other degrees of recession, as for example,

6 three-quarters of an inch, as well as one inch for each given degree of width and length. In the latter event each shoe must be marked with the degree of recession as well as the size and width.

For a more detailed description of the invention, reference may be had to Figure 1 of the accompanying drawing in which i represents the outline of an insole (but could as well be the bottom of a last or a human foot) positioned in the corner of a square formed by lines OX and OY. OX represents the base line above mentioned, and OY represents the inside tangent along which length is measured. It will be observed that the rearmost extremity of the heel A is tangent. with the line OX and that the inside contour of the heel is tangent with the line OY at point S. The point B represents the inner ball border of the insole, and is likewise tangent with the line OY. The distance OB is the dimension which controls the size (length) of the shoe, last, insole or foot, as the case may be. Point B also represents, in the case of a foot, the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal.

The line XY represents the outside tangent and is parallel with line OY. Point R represents the outer ball border at which line XZ is tangent. The length diiference between OB and XR is the recession. Line BR represents the ball line along which width (W) is measured.

Referring now to Figure 2, a representative part or" a family of insoles proportioned according to the invention is shown. Seven sizes, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, all of B width are shown. Those skilled in the art will readily understand the relationship of other widths for each size shown as well as for the larger and smaller sizes (not shown) of the family. For clarity, the figure shows the forepart only of sizes 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9. The ball lines of the respective sizes are indicated by the corresponding reference numeral having the sufiix W, and the opposite ends of such lines indicate respectively the outer and inner ball borders for the corresponding size.

In Figure 3 the insoles 4 and 10, being respectively the smallest and largest members of the family shown in Figure 2 are superposed to illustrate the constancy of recession, but difference in angularity of the ball line,

as between the larger and smaller members of the family.

Point R, as in Figure 1, represents the outer ball borders of both insoles and points B represent their inner ball borders. B is the point of intersection between the outer periphery of the respective insoles and a perpendicular to their respective inside tangents. Line 4W is the ball line of size 4, and line 10W is the ball line of size 10. The ball lines 4W and 10W meet at R despite their divergence away from each other toward the respective inner ball borders. It will be observed that the distance (measured along an outside tangent) between B and B (i. e., the recession) is the same for the size 4 as for the size 10.

While in the accompanying drawings the insoles illustrated are those for womens shoes, it will be understood that the same principles may be applied in the proportioning, grading, and fitting of mens and misses shoes, and generally also to youths and childrens shoes; although in connection with the latter, it may be noted that a considerableproportion of feet in their formative stages have recessions of less than three-quarters of an inch or more than an inch and a quarter, which is quite in contrast with the situation I have found to exist among adult feet. The greater variation in recession found in childrens feet, however, does not alter the other principles of the invention, for in any event, the locus of the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal and the locus of the lateral aspect of the distal end of the fifth metatarsal may be easily identified on any foot, and if the shoe is constructed on a last and with an insole whose length, width, and recession are known, and

the shoe correctly indicates those dimensions, fitting is easily accomplished to conform to foot anatomy.

The invention is not concerned with the shape of either the heel or the toe portion of the shoe, provided, as indicated above, there be adequate toe room ahead of the ball line and provided further that the heel contour be selected from among those known in the art to be satisfactory.

The invention thus eliminates from consideration in shoe fitting the overall length of the shoe, and likewise eliminates consideration of the so-called tread width as these dimensions never provide a standard by which to judge correctness of fitting along the ball line of the foot. Even without the constant recession in a given family of shoe sizes and Widths, however, fitting is facilitated in accordance with the present invention where the foot is measured to ascertain distance OB between the rear extremity of the heel and the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal, and the width is measured between the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal and the lateral aspect of the distal end of the fifth metatarsal; and the shoes are manufactured with those dimensions similarly measured and indicated thereon. When the constant recession feature of the invention is utilized and a foot is encountered whose recession departs substantially from the constant recession employed in the manufacture of that family of shoes, that foot can be recognized at once as being unsuitable to be fitted with a shoe of that family. Indeed were it not for the capital burden, to retailers as well as manufacturers, involved in the carrying in stock of the present range of sizes and widths it would be desirable to .provide at least two related families of shoes, the families differing from each other in degree of recession, but the recession being constant Within each family.

From the foregoing description, it should be readily understood that the invention in providing for the measurement of feet, lasts, insoles, and shoes in the three dimensions indicated substantially eliminates the guess work from shoe fitting, and thus contributes not only to the ease of marketing shoes, but also to the health and comfort of the feet which must occupy them. Furthermore shoes constructed according to the invention may carry on the uppers or soles a strip, spot of chalk, or other mark which visually indicates the location of the inner and outer ball borders. Such a mark may be removably secured to the exterior of the shoe upper or, may be opaque to X-ray, and an X-ray demonstration given in each fitting. Also a contrast mark (but visible) or opaque substance can be carried by the insole for use in transparent plastic shoes.

While the invention has been specifically described with reference to the insole outline of a typical womans shoe, it is to be distinctly understood that the contour of the toe part, the heel part, and the shank may be subject to wide variation without affecting the principles of the present invention, or the results thereby accomplished Consequently, it is to be distinctly understood that such modifications and variations of the embodiment hereinbefore described as may present themselves to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention are, although not specifically described herein, contemplated by and within the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of making a shoe to fit a particular foot which comprises placing the foot in the angle of a square so that the rear of the heel is tangent with one leg of the square and both the inside of the heel and the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal bone are tangent with the second leg of the square, measuring the distance between the locus of tangence with said medial aspect and the vertex of said angle, measuring the distance between said medial aspect and the lateral aspect of the distal end of the fifth metatarsal, measuring the displacement parallel with said second leg of the square between said medial aspect and said lateral aspect determining the dimensions of a last in the three respects aforesaid, and constructing the shoe on said last, whereby said three dimensions correspond substantially with the aforesaid three foot meaurernents.

2. In the art of fitting a shoe to a particular foot, the method which comprises placing the foot in the angle of a square so that the rear of the heel is tangent with one leg of the square and both the inside of the heel and the medial aspect of the distal end of the first metatarsal bone are tangent with the second leg of the square, measuring the distance between the locus of tangence with said medial aspect and the vertex of said angle, measuring the distance between said medial aspect and the lateral aspect of the distal end of the fifth metatarsal, measuring the displacement parallel with said second leg of the square between said medial aspect and said lateral aspect, and providing a shoe whose dimensions in the three respects aforesaid correspond substantially with the aforesaid three foot measurements.

The Human Foot (Scholl), Foot Specialist Publ. Co. (Chicago), pages 318-323. (Copy in Div. 11.)

The Boot and Shoe Maker (Bordoli), vol. II, Gresham Publ. Co. (London), pages 225235. (Copy in Div. 11.)

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