US2812733A - Apparatus for making waistbands for trousers - Google Patents

Description

NW 129 1957 R, w, DU VAL 2,812,733

APPARATUS FOR MAKING WAISTBANDS FOR TROUSERS Filed Aug. 30, 1954 INVENTOR.

2,812,733 Patented Nov. 12, 1957 APPARATUS FOR MAKING WAISTBANDS FOR TROUSERS Ronald W. Du Val, Shreveport, La.

Application August 30, 1954, Serial No. 452,780 3 Claims. c1. 112 2 The present invention pertains to the forming of waistbands for trousers by continuous stitching and of simultaneously stitching belt loops thereto.

The principal object of the invention is the provision of a slack forming arm arranged to permit. slack in the belt loop when it is sewed to the band so that when the band is finally folded upon. itself and attached to. the trousers, the upper, stitched end. of the belt loops will be hidden on the inner side of the folded band, the slack in the loop permitting it then to lie in. a fiat, contiguous plane against the band surface without pinching or wrinkling.

Another object of the invention is the provision of a top feed mechanism whereby any number of plies or folds of cloth may be fed and stitched through the machine without wrinkling or slipping upon each other.

A further object of the invention is the provision of a pair of laterally spaced, flexible belts and a means of guiding the same to bear pressure upon the layer or layers of the material being sewed and of driving the belts simultaneously with the same. lineal speed as the feed rolls of the machine.

Other objects andadvantages of the invention will become apparent in the course of the following detailed description with the accompanying drawing in which:

Fig. l is a side view of amachine including my attachment for making waistbands and of stitching belt loops thereto.

Pig. 2 is a plan View, more or less diagrammatical form, showing the manner of folding the. curtain material upon the band and spacing the belt loops therein for stitching. Curtain material, as known to the garment trade, is that portion of material added to the inside of a pair of trousers at the waist line in order to reinforce the same against wear and to lend stiffness to the final gar ment to prevent wrinkling.

Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 are sectional views taken along corresponding lines of Fig. 1 and showing progressive steps of the folding of the curtain material upon the band and the manner of forming slack in the belt loop.

Fig. 7 is an isometric view illustrating a section of the completed band folded upon itself and of the position of the belt loop.

In the drawing numeral 10 designates a stitching head of the commercial type of sewing machine. AfiiXed to the stitching head of the machine by mounting screws 11 is a slack forming rod 12 projecting outwardly from the head, as shown, and bent upon itself, with its opposite end terminating beneath the presser foot 13. As shown in Fig. 5, the presser foot 13 is also provided with spaced grooves 14 and 15 together with a central slot 16.

To the rear of the machine and beneath the feed line of the material is the conventional feed roll 17 geared to the machine proper. Spaced above this feed roll 17 I have provided a pair of idler rolls 18 and 19, each of which is provided with a groove similar to a conventional V-belt pulley. Fig. 1 discloses a pair of endless belts 28, one positioned on each side of the slack forming arm 12 and passed through the respective grooves 14 and 15 of the 2 presser foot and on to the grooved. pulley or idler wheels 18 and 19., A support and guide rod 20 is affixed to the machine head and serves to support the weight of the belts to keep them from folding down upon the machine head.

Fig. 2 illustrates the manner of the forming and continuous stitching of the waistbands. The curtain material is contained in a roll 22 wound upon a spool at the front of the machine. The material 21 is passed over a former 2 3 which folds it in the manner illustrated in Fig. 3. This former 23 consists in a thin sheet of hardened and polished steel fixed to the top of the table on which the machine is mounted and has one of its side edges curved upon itself in the manner illustrated in Fig. 3 so that when the curtain material is pulled across the same by the stitching mechanism, the same will be automatically folded as indicated in Fig. 4. The bands, indicated by numeral 24, are provided with previously cut notches 25 which: indicate the position or location of a belt loop 26. An edge of the band is. placed within the fold of the curtain material manually and also a belt loop is laid within the fold at each notch on the band.

Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 illustrate successive steps in the simultaneous stitching of the band, curtain and belt loops. In Fig. 3 the curtain material 21 is shown being folded upon itself by the former 23. A pre-cut and pre-notched band 24 is then. placed on the machine table with the inner edge.-

abutting aligning stops 27. The machine operator then places a belt loop upon the entering notch of the band and within the fold of the-curtain. It will be noted, however, that the band is fed beneath the slack formingarm 12, while the belt loop is laid across the same. As the belts 28 bear pressureupon the assembled pieces thus formed, a cross section of the assembly will assume the shape shown in Fig. 4 which is just prior to stitching.

In Fig. 4 the moving belts 28 draw the assembly beneath the presser foot 13, still bearing pressure upon the assem bly, yet drawing it evenly and without side play. The slot 16 in the presser foot permits the slack forming arm 12 to hold a predetermined amount of slack in the belt loop even while being stitched. As. the belt loop 26. passes underneath the stitching head 10 as illustrated in Fig. 5, one end is sewed to the waistband 24 while the other end is. sewed to both the. Waistband 24 and the curtain material 21. Fig. 6 illustrates the last step in the stitching of the belt loop, the band and the curtain; and illustrates the feed roll 17 drawing the continuous strip through the machine. Fig. 2 illustrates the conventional manner of feeding the continuous strip upon a receiving roll 29. The rotatable shaft 30 of this roll 29 is usually rotated by some power mechanism connected with the machine proper so as to properly receive the strip of completed waistbands.

The rolls of completed waistbands are subsequently trimmed and placed in matching bundles for stitching to trousers.

Fig. 7 illustrates a section of the finished band which has been folded and stitched to a section of a trouser leg. It is well known that in the folding of any material, whether of cloth, metal or any other, that an allowance should be made for the bend, especially if the material is relatively thick and the bend is more than degrees. Since I have provided the exact amount of slack for the bend, the belt loops 25 lie flat and even against the band 24 with the upper, stitched end being completely folded over and hidden on the inside. The slack forming arm 12 may be ad+ justed for height to permit any desired slack in the final loop. In former devices for stitching belt loops no allowance has been at all in the loop for the: bend. Consequently, in the final folding of the waistband, the loops are not only uneven but tend to pull and pleat the band and present a situation of poor workmanship and a feeling of discomfort to the wearer.

Not only does my invention provide a speedy method of making waistbands, but it sewing any fine material on the bias. It is well known that with the invention of many modern fine fabrics, the problem has also arisen as to how to feed and sew the material without injury and with absolute smoothness. It is readily seen that with my invention, the steady pressure of the feed belts 28, over a considerable length of the material, is certainly more to be desired than the conventional serrated metal feed which ruptures the threads of the fine fabrics. Moreover, the conventional feed tends to pull the fabric to the right or left to either stretch or gather it While feeding, while my invention in the rear guide rolls maintains the two belts in a straight line andat considerable distance to the rear of the presser foot, thus eliminating any tendency of the fabric to pull to one side.

The invention is simple in its construction and operation and may be attached with a minimum of cost to any conventional sewing machine for the purpose described. While I have described the invention in detail in a particular embodiment, it is to be understood that this has been by way of example only and that constructional changes could be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the following claims.

I claim:

1. A machine for the continuous sewing of waistbands for trousers and the simultaneous stitching of belt loops thereon comprising, a double needle presser foot, a pair of belt grooves formed on the bottom face of said presser foot one on each side of the double needles, said presser foot also provided with a centrally disposed longitudinal recess on the bottom face thereof, a pair of idler wheels positioned rearwardly of the stitching head of said machine, each idler wheel being provided with a belt groove spaced in alignment with its corresponding groove on said presser foot, a pair of endless belts encircling the head of said machine, said belts passing into the grooves of said presser foot and the grooves of said rearwardly positioned idler wheels, the depth of all of said aforementioned grooves permitting the belts only to come into contact with a waistband to draw the same beneath the said needles for stitching, a slack forming arm afiixed to the head of said machine, said arm being directed into the area defined by the centrally disposed recess beneath said presser foot but above the waistband being sewed to provide slack to a belt loop placed across the same while both ends thereof are sewed simultaneously with the waistband.

2. A machine for the continuous sewing of waistbands is also highly desirable when I for trousers and the simultaneous stitching of belt loops thereon comprising, a double needle presser foot, a pair of longitudinally disposed belt grooves one on each side of said double needles, said presser foot also provided with a longitudinally and centrally disposed recess formed on the bottom face thereof, a pair of idler wheels arranged in proper alignment with the grooves on said presser foot, a pair of flexible endless belts encircling said idler wheels and being passed through respective grooves on said presser foot, said belts being arranged to contact a waistband for drawing the same beneath said presser foot for stitching, a slack forming arm for the belt loops comprising a rod afiixed to the head of said machine and directed into the centrally disposed recess on said presser foot, said arm being disposed between the needles but above the material being sewed to provide slack to a belt placed across the same so that the same may be simultaneously sewed with the waistband.

3. A double needle machine for sewing belt loops to waistbands for trousers comprising, a presser foot for the stitching head of said machine, a pair of grooves formed in the bottom face of said presser foot and in the direction of sewing, a centrally disposed groove also formed on the bottom of said presser foot and extending the length of the same, a pair of idler wheels positioned to the rear of said stitching head, a belt groove in each of said idler wheels, each idler wheel being spaced in alignment with one of the grooves of said presser foot, a pair of endless belts passed over said idler wheels and through respective grooves in said presser foot, a slack forming arm afiixed to said machine at one end and having the other end directed beneath said presser foot and into the centrally disposed open area, said belts being arranged to bear continuous pressure upon the waistband being sewed and upon the ends of a belt loop placed across said slack forming arm whereby said belt loop will be sewed to the waistband with sufficient slack to lie flat when the top portion of the waistband is subsequently folded upon itself.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 577,595 Close Feb. 23, 1897 2,106,536 Rubel et al Jan. 25,1938 2,241,230 Wilmoth May 6, 1941 2,674,213 Lopez Apr. 6, 1954 FOREIGN PATENTS 508,129 Germany Sept. 27, 1930

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