US2522646A - Shoe with folded striated upper edge - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 19, 1950 K. A. STRITTER SHOE WITH FOLDED STRIATED UPPER EDGE 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Jan. 4, 1947 Inventor Karl A. $271 tier rzey Sept. 19, 1950 K. A. STRITTER SHOE WITH FOLDED STRIATED UPPER EDGE 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 F iled Jan. 4, 1947 Inventor At rney Sept. 19, 1950 K. A. STRITTER SHOE wrm FOLDED STRIATED UPPER EDGE I5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Jan. 4, 1947 Inventor Karl A. Szrzzzer Patented Sept. 19, 1950 SHOE WITH FOLDED STRIATED UPPER EDGE Karl A. Stritter, Nahant, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application January 4, 1947, Serial No. 720,195

2 Claims.

This invention relates to improved shoe constructions and more specifically to a novel construction for an edge of shoe uppers and the like.

It is the object of this invention to provide a novel edge construction for shoes and/or a piping including the novel edge construction for application thereto which will effectively strengthen and impart a decorative appearance thereto which may be produced inexpensively and which may be constructed with conventional assembly room machinery Without the necessity for special attachments.

The invention resides in an edge for a shoe part, the marginal portion of which is composed of two plies of material disposed substantially face to face and an edge portion of which is constituted solely by the external surfaces of the plies. As illustrated, the edge portion is formed by beveling the opposing faces of the margins and adhesively securing them together, substantially in the plane of the contacting faces of the plies. The plies themselves inwardly of the beveled portions may be adhesively attached to each other, preferably however they are held face to face by a line of stitching parallel to the edge portion inwardly thereof approximately at the base of the beveled portions. The edge portion thus formed is substantially convex and beadlike striations are formed crosswise thereof throughout its length, the striations being formed and spaced to simulate stitching along the edge provided there is no stitching as when the plies are joined by adhesive or if there is stitching along the edge to simulate hand sewing along the edge. having an inner edge terminating short of the other ply and as illustrated the narrower of the two plies is skived inwardly of its beveled portion to its inner edge so that its inner edge wil1 merge with the other ply. In a somewhat modified form of the invention one of the plies is a bent over extension of the other ply, the bent-over ply being secured to the other ply by means of adhesive and/0r stitching. The edge portion of the edge formed thereby as in the previously described edge is substantially convex and is constituted solely by the external surfaces of the plies. lfhis edge portion is also embossed with striations to simulate stitching or to give the stitching along the edge the appearance of hand sewing. The bent-over ply is preferably skived so that its inner edge will merge with the other p y.

In a more specific application of the aforementioned edge construction one of the plies may be One of the plies is usually a narrow strip means of adhesive.

a shoe upper at the back part of the shoe around the foot opening and the other may be a narrow strip applied to the inside surface of the upper along the edge thereof. The upper and strip are beveled along their free edges and the beveled portions are adhesively secured together in the plane of the contacting faces of the upper and strip. The strip itself may be secured to the upper in substantially face-to-face relationship by Preferably, however, stitching is employed for attaching the strip to the upper the stitching running along the marginal portion of the edge approximately at the base of the beveled portions. The edge portion of the edge formed in this manner is embossed with striations as heretofore described. The strip is preferably skived from a line adjacent to the beveled portion to its inner edge and is stitched to the upper to hold it fiat against the inside thereof. instead of a separate strip applied to the inside of the upper the shoe upper itself may have an extension thereon which is folded over as illustrated. to provide an edge having the characteristics heretofore explained.

In another aspect of the invention such an edge may be formed along one of the parallel sides of strip piping made up in continuous lengths for application to the edge of a shoe part and hence novelty also resides in a prepared piping, having substantially parallel side edges, adapted to be attached to a shoe specifically to the free edge of the upper around the foot opening. As illustrated, the piping comprises two plies of strip material, disposed substantially face to face with edges flush, joined near one edge by adhesive and/or stitching. The plies which constitute the strip are separable from the line along which they are joined at one side of th strip to the opposite side of the strip and the separable portions of the plies are adapted to embrace the up per edge of an upper and to be secured thereto in any suitable fashion. The edge along the joined side of the piping is constructed similarly to the edges heretofore described, that is, it is formed by adhesively securing two separate strips of material beveled along their marginal portions face to face and with their edges flush to provide an edge having a marginal portion comprised of two plies of material and an edge portion constituted solely by the external surfaces of the plies or by folding a single strip of material upon itself to provide an edge having a marginal portion comprised of two plies and an edge portion constituted solely by the external surfaces of the piles. The edge portion formed in either instance is substantially convex and is embossed with striations crosswise thereof as previously described.

The invention will now be described in detail in its various forms with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

Fig, 1 is a cross-section of the novel edge portion of a shoe part;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary portion of the marginal portion of the shoe part illustrated in Fig. 1 shown in elevation;

Fig. 3 is an exploded view of Fig. 1 showing the component parts of the novel edge in cross section prior to assembly;

Fig. 4 is a cross-section of a modified form of the edge shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the back-part of a shoe showing the free edge of the upper constructed as illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the back part of a shoe showing thefree edge of the upper constructed as illustrated in Fig, 4;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of piping composed of two separate strips of material i us an edge: similar to that shown in Fig. 1 with the stitching omitted along its marginal portion;

.Fig. 8- is a cross-section of Fig. 7 showing the two separate strips united with adhesive;

Figs. 9'and'10 are perspective and cross-section views of piping similar to that shown in Fig. 7'

with a: line of stitching along the marginal portion of the edge;

Fig. 1 1 is a cross-section of an upper at the back part of the shoe showing piping such as is illustrated in Figs. 7 to 10 inclusive, attached thereto;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a length of piping having an edge similar in construction to the edge shown in Fig. 4 with the stitching omitted along the marginal portion;

Figs. 13 and 14 are cross-sections of the piping shown in' Fig, 12 showing the folded over edge without adhesive and with adhesive in the bight of the fold;

Figs. 15 and 16 show perspective and cross-sectional views of a piping similar to that shown in Fig; 12 with a line of stitching'along the marginal portion of the strip;

Fig. 17 is a cross-section of the piping illustrated in Fig. 15 showing an edge portion of the edge scored to simulate a line of junction such as would appear along the edge portion of the piping shown in Fig. 9;

Figs; 18 and 19 show perspective views of the back part of a shoe with piping attached by stitching (Fig. 18) and/or adhesive (Fig. 19) to the free edge of an upper around the foot open- Fig, 20 shows the application of a strip of piping to the outside or display surface of an upper; and

Fig. 21'shows'the application of a strip of piping to the free edge of a tongue.

' Asillustrated in Fig. 1 the edge Iii has a marginal portion 52 comprised of two plies ill and l-fi 'securedinfa-ce-to-face relationship and an edge portion 28 constituted solely by the exposed surfaces of the plies l4 and 16. To obtain such an edge portion the opposed marginal portions ofthe plies are beveled at 26 and 24 (Fig. 3), adhesive-26 m applied to the beveled surfaces and the beveled surfaces are bent into engagement in the plane of the contacting faces of the plies sothat their edges 28 and 30 are coincident. The securing means for the plies may be adhesive applie d:to :the contacting faces of the plies inwardly of the beveled surfaces or a line of stitching 32 joining the plies along the base of the beveled surfaces. The edge portion l8 thus formed, which is substantially convex, is embossed with transverse striations 34 spaced at intervals corresponding to the spacing of the stitches 32 to impart a hand-sewn appearance to-the edge. If the stitching is omitted as in the case where the plies are joined solely by means of adhesive a hand-sewn edge may be affected by embossing the edge portion with striations spaced at intervals to simulate stitches. One of the plies as for example the ply I6 is usually a narrow strip as compared to the other ply ill and hence has an inner edge 36 terminating short of the pl I4. In order to minimize the bulkiness of the edge I!) caused by the termination of the inner edge 36 of the ply l6 short of the ply M the ply i6 is skived at 35 (Fig. 3) so that its inner surface tapers from the base of its beveled face 23 to its inner edge 35. The edge 36 willtherefore merge with the ply M with very little break along the line at which the edge- 38 meets the surface of the ply M.

A specific application of such an edge H)- is shown in Fig. 5 in which the pl I4 is the upper of a shoe at the back part thereof and the ply i6 is a narrow strip'secured to the inside of the upper adjacent to its free edge around the foot opening to strengthen it and to give it a decorative appearance, As illustrated the upper l4 and strip is are beveled at 20 and 24, the beveled faces are joined by adhesive 26 and the upper and strip arestitched together by a line of stitching 32 extending along the marginal portion at the base of the beveled faces. The edge portion 18 of the edge thus formed is embossed with striations 34 spaced at intervals corresponding substantially to the spacing of the stitching 32 and in such a manner that they are symmetrical with respect to the plane of the contacting faces of the plies and. hence the edge it as seen from the outside or inside of the shoe will have the same appearance.

A modification of the seam described above is shown in Fig.4 in which the edge I0 is formed by bending an extension of a shoe part double upon itself. The marginal portion 12 of the edge I 0 therefore consists of a ply l4 and ply l6 which is a bent-over extension of the ply M. The edge portion I 8 formed by bending the ply it into contact with the ply M as in the edge described above, is convex and is constituted solely by the exposed surfaces of the plies l4 and It; The. bent-over ply 16 may be subjected to sufficient pressure during the bending or folding operation to impart a permanent set to the edge E El without other securing means. However to insure permanency of this edge it is desirable to employ adhesive 26 in the bight between the contacting faces of the plies and/or stitching 32 inwardly of the edge portion l8 and parallel thereto. Transverse striations 34 are formed in the edge portion l8 to simulate the stitching if the plies are secured together solely by means of adhesive or to cause the stitching 32 when employed in the edge to have a hand-sewn appearance. As inthe previously formed edge the ply I 6 is skived at 35 so as to providea substantial feather edge 36 which will merge-with the ply M.

A specific example of the application of this form of the edge I0 is shown in Fig. 6 in which the ply I4 is the upper of a shoe and the ply I6 is an extension of the upper bent over on the inside of the shoe and secured thereto by means of adhesive and/or stitching 32. The edge portion l8 formed thereby is as heretofore described constituted solely by the external surfaces of the plies 14, I6 and is substantially convex and its surface'is embossed to provide spaced striations 34 which simulate stitching if no stitching is employed and/or when stitching 32 is employed give it the appearance of hand stitching.

While the formation of the edge shown in Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive illustrates the application of the ply l6 to the inside surface of the shoe part, it is evident that it may be applied just as Well to the outside or display surface as shown in Fig. 20. In some instances the application of the ply Hi to the outside may be employed to advantage to provide a color contrast along the free edge of the upper, that is, the ply 16 may be dyed a color different from the ply I4 which constitutes the upper thus affording a two-tone effect. When the ply I6 is on the outside of the upper its lower edge may be stitched thereto at 38 to hold it fiat against the upper.

A further example of an application of the aforesaid edge ID to a shoe part is illustrated in Fig. 21 where it is shown along the end of a tongue 46 primarily for decorative purposes.

In another aspect of the invention an edge It constructed in accordance with the preceding description may be made up in the form of strip piping for application to the edge of a shoe. As illustrated in Figs. 7 to 10, inclusive, the strip piping 42 comprises two plies of material 44 and 46 disposed substantially face to face as shown by the full lines in Fig. 7 to form a two-ply strip having substantially parallel side edges 48 and 50. The plies are joined along the side edge 48 and unjoined along the side edge 56. The joined edge 48 is constructed in the same manner as the edge It] illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3 inclusive, that is, the opposing surfaces of the plies adjacent to their marginal edges are beveled at 52 and 54 and beveled faces are secured together with adhesive 56 in the plane of contacting faces of the plies. The edge portion 58 of the edge 48 formed thereby is substantially convex and striations 66 are embossed in the edge portion 58 to simulate stitching if as shown in Fig. 7 no stitching is employed. If as shown in Fig. 9 there is stitching 62 along the edge the striation 60 are spaced to correspond with the spacing of the stitching. The plies at the unjoined side 50 are separable as illustrated in phantom lines throughout the figures and are adapted to embrace and to be secured to the opposite side U of a shoe upper as shown in Fig. 11. The plies 44 and 46 are skived from a line adjacent to the beveled faces 52 and 54 or the line of stitching 62 therealong to their free edges at the unjoined side 50 (Figs. 8 and 10) so that when piping is applied to the shoe the plies will merge with the opposite surfaces of the upper.

While the piping described above is made up of two separate strips of material it may be made up to provide an edge 48 similar to that shown in Figs. 4 and 6 by folding a single strip of material as illustrated in Figs. 12 to 14 inclusive. The marginal portion of the edge thus formed is comprised of two plies 44 and 46 and the edge portion 58 is constituted solely by the external surfaces of the plies. As shown in Figs. 12 and 13 the folded edge is subject to sufficient pressure in the folding operation to impart a permanent set thereto so that it will retain its contour without other securing means. Preferably, however, to insure permanency of the edge 48 adhesive 56 is disposed in the bight between the plies as shown in Fig. 14 and/or stitching 62 is employed inwardly of the edge as illustrated in Figs. 15 and 16. The convex edge portion 58 is embossed as previously explained with striations 60 to simulate stitching if there is no stitching or to afford a hand-sewn appearance to the stitching if it is employed along the edge.

The piping 42 illustrated in Figs. 7 to 10 inclusive is made up of two separate strips and when these are joined there is a line visible along the end portion 58 produced by the meeting edges of the component plies. The one-piece piping illustrated in Figs. 12 to 16 inclusive may be made to simulate piping in Figs. 7 to 10 inclusive by forming a score line 66 along its edge portion 58 as shown in Fig. 17..

The strip piping illustrated in Figs. 7 to 17 inclusive is shown applied to the upper edge of a shoe upper in Figs. 18 and 19. In Fig. 18 the lower portions of the plies 44 and 46 are spread apart to embrace the upper edge of the shoe upper and are stitched at 68 thereto while in Fig. 19 the plies are cemented at 10 to the upper.

It is apparent from the preceding description of the invention that the novel edge described herein may be included in the construction of a shoe at a minimum cost and without special equipment or attachment.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A finish for the top edge of shoe uppers which comprises two layers of leather of substantially equal thickness and presenting a convex edge having a grain face over said edge, the edge portion of the layers being embossed to form bead-like striations integral with the leather, and a line of stitches below and adjacent to the beadlike striations.

2. A two-ply leather piping strip for use in decorating the top edges of shoe uppers, one edge of said strip presenting only the grain surface of the leather, said edge portion being formed with bead-like striations integral with the leather, and a line of stitches extending through said strip adjacent to said bead-like striations.

KARL A. STRITTER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,351,722 Lautenochlager Aug 31, 1920 1,406,673 Merrick Feb. 14, 1922 1,521,853 Augustine Jan. 6, 1925 1,536,839 Gillis May 5, 1925 1,594,308 Llewellyn July 27, 1926 1,756,448 Bigney Apr. 29, 1930 1,952,628 MacDonald Mar. 27, 1934 2,082,346 Lavenson June 1, 1937 2,425,479 Le Blane Aug. 12, 1947 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 19,934 Australia Apr. 4, 1935 832,534 France July 4, 1938

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