US 2374654 A
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J. C. COOKE 7 May 1, 1945.
MEANS FOR TAKING MEASUREMENTS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF GARMENTS Filed July 7 1945 3 Sheets-Sheet l .J. c. COOKE 2,374,654
MEANS FOR TAKING MEASUREMENTS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF GARMENTS May 1, 1945.
Filed July 7, 1945 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 n n u 1| 1| 1| I nventvr Attorney.
J. C. COOKE May 1, 1945.
MEANS FOR TAKING MEASUREMENTS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF GARMENTS Filed July 7,
1943 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Inventor f um re y Attorney.
Patented May 1, 1945 MEAN S FOR TAKING MEASUREMENTS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF G'ARMENTS Jessie Carlyle Cooke, Streatham Hill, London, England Application July '7, 1943, Serial No. 493,730
In Great Britain May 5, 1942 3 Claims. (CI; 3315) This invention relates to means fortaking measurements for the production of garments and particularly the garments of women and children, while being also applicable to garments for men.
The invention has among its objects to provide simple, convenient and efiective means'for accurately taking measurements on the person, and to provide means whereby the measurements may be checked or repeated without reference to the figure of the person.
According to the invention a fittinggarmen is employed of a size that is larger than that of the figure to be measured and that is made of a material that may be easily crumpled or contracted to the small extent necessary in its use, and that is provided with a series of loops, slits, or other means disposed on the lines upon which the measurements are usually taken, through which loops may be pa'ssedpositioning tapes or the equivalent, each of which may be secured at a corresponding-and determined position from which a measurement is to be taken and, after adjustment, of the material of the garment in re-- lation thereto, is adapted to be held as by means of fastening devices or tied to the garment at or towards the free end, whereby the garment is contracted or otherwise adjusted to dispose the lines upon which the measurements are to be taken in accurate adjustment with reference to the figure of the person being measured.
According to the invention, moreover, measur ingtapesmay be applied through theloops or like means in super-position over the positioning tapes or the equivalent, the measuring tapes being secured also at the positions from which the corresponding measurements are to be taken.
According to the invention, moreover, the positioning tapes or the equivalent, or certain of them, may be formed as measuring tapes that are provided with fastening devicesor tying tapes or strings to determine the adjustment of the garment in relation thereto.
According to the invention, also, measuring tapes may be applied upon certain measuring lines through the loops or the like provided upon the fitting garment, and suchtapes may or may not be fastened to the garment at any position.
According to the invention, also, thegarment maybe provided with a sleeve or sleeves detachably fitted thereto and provided with means of attachment whereby the position of the upper end of the sleeve may be adjusted in relation to e the arm scye and the shoulder.
The garment may be made of any light-weight material that is easily crumpled orcontracted,
such as net or fabric or other material woven or otherwise produced from cotton, wool, rayon, linen, silk or other threads or'filaments, and the loops, slits or other means for the reception of the positioningtapes' and/or measuring tapes may be woven in the material or may be formed in strips of material that are let into the garment along the measuring lines, or by the application to the garment of loops made from, thread or formed by strip material secured to the garment at the two ends.
The positioning tapes may be of tape or other suitable strip material or cord and may be provided at the free end, for example, with-a series of press-button fasteners, any one of which may be engaged with a corresponding complementary fastener or any one of a series of complementary fasteners mounted upon thegarment in the line of measurement or mounted upon a length of the tape or cord that is fastened to the garment at one or both ends. Other means, however, of ad justing the positioning tapes may be employed. Thus, the tape may be'provided with one or more hooks or loops that may be engaged witha' corresponding loop or bar of wire mounted-or hooked upon the garment or upon material attached thereto, or a series of such loops or bars or hooks may be provided for the purpose.
- In the case of the measuring tapes that are fastened to the garment and thatextend over the positioning tapes, there may also be provided means whereby the said tapes are secured at-the position of the measurement. Such means may advantageously comprise slip, buckles that are.
tioning tapes, theymay be provided with at: I
tached lengths of tape or the equivalent that serve the purpose of the positioning tapes and that may be held or tied for the purpose of adjusting the garment while leaving the part of the measuring tape upon which the measurement is required to be noted free tobe applied in position upon the garment for the purpose of noting or determining the measurment to be taken. Thus,
measuring tapes which are "not associated with the positioning tapes may be merely threaded through the loops or the like of the garment in such manner as to permit them to be adjusted" to the measurements to be taken along the measuring lines upon which they are respectively ap-.
plied. Such measuring tapes may, for example, be employed in respect of the bust, hip and waist measurements, I
The measurement of the waist may, however, be determined by a waist-band made in sectional lengths, for example, of four lengths, that may be set respectively at the front, at the back and at the sides and of a total length slightly less than the smallest waist measurement for which 3 v the garment is to be used, the ends of the adjacent sections being laced or otherwise connected together so that the waist-band may be' applied at the waist line of thefigure and fitted'by adjustment of the lacing between the adjacent sections. The respective sections of the waistband may be provided in determined positions with vertical series of studs or other equivalent means to which may be secured the respective vertical positioningv tapes in the. adjusted or fitted position of the garment.
The invention further comprises the features I hereinafter described.
'The invention is further illustrated by way of threaded through the loops in the garment as.
we'llas atthe arm scye.
Figure 3 is a side View. 1 Figure 4 is a view in detail of the right shoulder indicating the positioning tape and. measuring tape threaded'through the loops on the shoulder measuring line from the neck to the arm scye. Figure 5 is a detail view showing the 'posi: tioning tape and the measuring tape at a posi tion immediately above one'of the sections of the waist band.
Figure 6 represents a modified construction of the garment in a perspective front view.
Figure 7 represents a corresponding view from the back of the garment illustrated in'Figure 6. I
Figure 8 represents means for the adjustment of m the upper opening of the sleeve with reierenceto the arm scye.
Figure 9 is a diagrammatic representation of the blanks from which the garment is made, illustrating the slits or loops that are provided for the reception of the positioning tapes and/or trated the positioning tapes are tied in the position of adjustment.
Other positioning tapes 5 extend from the measuring tapes are- Other positioning'tapes 9 (Figures l and 4) areprovided upon the shoulder measuring lines andare secured at the upper edge of the arm scye and adjusted by means of press-button fasteners ID at the neck opening, while positioning tapes ll may extend round the arm scye and be adjusted as by means of press-button fasteners'upon the shoulder. The inner and outer measuring lines of the sleeve or sleeves may similarly be provided with-positioning tapes that are secured at the upper arm opening and adjusted relatively to the sleeve material by press-button fasteners at the wrist. Similarly, positioning tapes I3 may be provided around the sleeve at spaced positions along the length of the sleeve and atthe wrist.
,The waist-band 6 in the construction illus-, trated is'in four sections that together are of a length less than that of the smallest waist measurement for which the garment is intended, and such sections are adjusted tov the required measurement by means of laces 1 14. Measuring tapes "l5, l6 and 11- are respectively threaded over the positioning tapes through the loops at the bust measurement and the hipmeasurement, while measuring tapes [8 and. I9 are fastenedat the neck. opening respectively at the middle of the front and the middle of the back and extend downwardly "over the corresponding positioning tapes. Similarly, measuring tapes 20 and inner and outer positioning tapes of the sleeve from the arm scye and the measuring .tapes 21, 28 and 29 along the measuring tapes'at the wrist and in the spaced positions along the sleeve respectively.
In the use of the garment, the positioning tapes as well as the measuring tapes having beenpreviously passed through the loops or the equivalent on the measuring lines as hereinbefore described and the neck positioning tape fastened, the waist-band 6 is fastened and the sections of the waist-band adjusted by means of thelaces l4 so that the waist-band fits the figure. The positioning tapes 9 onthe shoulder'measur-ing lines are drawn to obtain the required fit and fastened. The lengths of the positioning tapes 5of the bodice are then. adjusted, as are also the positioning tapes ll at the arm scye. The positioning tape 4 on the bust line is then drawn and tied andthe hip positioning tape or tapes 4 is or are adjusted and tied. The positioning tapes [2 of the sleeve are then adjusted for the length of the sleeve and the transverse positioning tapes l3 for the fit of the sleeve. On the Again, measuring.
positioning tapes being all set so that the garment represents accurately the contour of the figure to be fitted, the required measurements may at once be read from the measuring tapes or'the garment may be removed for subsequent reading 'of the measurements from the measuring tapes. When the measurements have been read off, the positioning tapes may be released and the garment is then ready. for further use. It will be understood that the garment may be applied over a dress or thedress may first be removed, but it is essential that in recording the measurements the fact should be noted,
- In carrying the invention into effect according to the construction represented in Figures 6 to 8, the garment is provided in the form of a hip-length jacket made up from blanks (Figure 9) comprising a back body blank A, right and left.
front body blanks B, C, a neck blank D, a back skirt blank E and left and right front skirt blanks F, G, while the sleeve or each sleeve comprises an outer blank H and an inner blank I. The right hand front of the body and skirt extends beyond the middle 3 and is provided to be connected to the left front by such means as pressbutton fasteners 30. The necessary fullness in the front of the body part is provided by v openings, that may be noted in the blanks B and C and the edges of which are seamed at 3| (Figure 6). The garment is provided with loops 2 in spaced order on all measuring lines, as is also indicated in the blank.
Measuring tapes 32, I5 and I6 are provided to pass through the loops 2 that are formed respectively in the neck band, on the measuring for the bust, and the measuring line for the hips, the measuring tapes 32 and 15 for the neck and bust being provided withslip buckles 33, 34, which serve to permit the reading of the measurements. The hip measuring tape IS in the construction illustrated is secured to the garment adjacent the press-button fasteners 30, but it may, as in the case of the neck and bust measuring tapes, be provided with a buckle. Alternatively, the neck and bust measuring tapes may be secured after the manner of the hip measuring tape. The middle front measuring tape l8 similarly extends through loops 2 that are disposed on the middle line on the right front part of the garment and extend at least to the waist line although, as illustrated, the series of loops may extend upon the skirt. Similarly, at the back there is provided a measuring tape l9 disposed in loops 2 and extending from the neck band downwardly and overthe skirt, Other measuring tapes 20, 2|, extend from the shoulder line at the front and the back respectively between the measuring tapes at the middle and the measuring tape 22 at the corresponding side which extends from the lower part of the arm scye. As illustrated in the left hand part of Figure 6 and in Figure '7, the measuring tapes 20, 2| extending from the shoulder may be provided with short lengths of positioning tape 35 having press-button fasteners 36 that are adapted to be engaged with corresponding complementary press-button fasteners 31 carried upon lengths of strip material 38 disposed transversely to the waist line and serving as loops through which may. extend a waist measuring tape 39. As illustrated in the right hand part of Figure 6, however, positioning tapes 5 may extend from the shoulder line at one or both sides of the middle line of the garment and, where necessary, such positioning tapes may have superposed upon them corresponding measuring tapes. It is, however, not essential that measuring tapes should be provided at both sides of the garment.
Positioning tapes are advantageously provided around the arm scy'e. Such tapes may, however, be replaced or may be associated with measuring tapes 24. for determining'the ,measurement of the arm scye. r
The sleeve is provided with measuring tapes 25, 26 that extend respectively from the arm pit to the wrist and from the shoulder opening to the wrist on the line of the elbow and that pass through loops 2 provided upon the said .lines. There may, however, be provided a positioning tape that is associated with each measuring tape.
Transverse measurements of the sleeve are secured by means of measuring tapes 21, 28, 29
spaced along the sleeve at the wrist, over' the.
forearm and under the arm pit respectively.
The sleeve is advantageously removable from the body of the garment and may be provided with means whereby the shoulder opening may be adjusted in relation to the arm scye. Thus, as illustrated in Figure 8, there may be provided pressbutton fasteners 40 to engage any one of a corresponding series of press-button fasteners 4| disposed on lines substantially normal to the edge of the arm scye or hooks 42 that similarly may engage loops or bars 43 that are disposed in series also substantially normal with respect to theedge of the arm scye. It is advantageous to provide the garment with sleeves at both sides, but the provision of more than one sleeve is not essential.
It will be understood from the foregoing that the invention is not limited to the particular examples hereinbefore given. Thus, in the case of a fitting garment intended for taking measurements in the production of garments for males the fitting garment will be formed correspondingly and the measuring lines will be those that are customarily employed in the measuring of male' garments.
1. A fitting-garment for dressmakers use in taking measurements, made of fabric adapted freely to be contracted and crumped on the measuring lines thereof, along which a lengthwise series of transversely disposed loops respectively extend that are separated by transversely disposed interstitial holes, the fitting-garment comprising a flexible tape-like band for each measurement to be taken, having on the outer face a scale of linear measure, and a length respective-- ly corresponding to the measuring lines on the fitting-garment, the respective flexible tape-like bands at one end being secured to the fitting-garment in positions upon the respective measuring lines from which measurements are to be taken,
the respective flexible tape-like bands being adapted to be interlaced and drawn by passage of their free ends successively through the transverse interstitial holes, and under -the transverse loops on the measuring lines, whereby in the use of the fitting-garment, the fabric is contracted on the measuring lines as the flein'ble tape-like bands at their free ends are drawn outwards and adjusted lengthwise on the measuring lines whereby the respective measurements are indicated on the outer faces of the bands by reference to the linear scales.
2. A fitting-garment for dressmakers use in taking measurements, made of fabric that is freely contracted and crumpled on the measurmg: lines 1 thereof; along which a series 'aofl; transverse loopssare disposed abetweenztransverse;ine-
terstitial holes, comprising a pair of flexible: tape like bands for each measurement to betak'en; oneflexible tape-like bands of a each pair being. dis-j posed upon and in' alignment with the other beneath it, and :of a length of corresponding to the respective measuringlines, the bands of each pair at one and the same end being connectedtogether ands-to the fitting-garmentat 'a position upon the respective measuring lines from which measurements are to be taken; and eachwpair of 1 bands being-adapted to be interlaced loy -passage of their free ends through the transverse interstitialv-holes and under the transverse 1oops on} the measuring lines, whereby the free ends of eachpair of flexible tape-like bands extend' to the opposite end of the respective measuring lines; the lower band of each'pair beingradapted to serve asa positioningebandxwhichzonrbeingtdrawrr. outward at its free! end rand adj ustedxlengthwise:
upon ".the "respective measuring: line, the: fittinge endv and-adjusted lengthwise inclose contact upon the; adjustedqpositioning band 3; A fitting-garment as 'specified' in claim 2 comprising means forfastening the free ends 'of thetape-like positioning bands 'tothefittinggar merit in theirlengthwiseaadjusted positions on'thev measuring: lines, at which the measurements are taken" on the. lengthwise adjustment thereon of the respective tape-like measuring bandj JE SSIE CARLYLE' COOKE."