It's cold in London. It may currently be sunny, but it's cold and it's going to be grey again by the end of the week, most likely. It's a meteorological state of affairs that made the bold and brilliant looks walked down Kim Jones's Dior runway in Miami yesterday shine all the brighter – warming beacons of super-luxe creativity within the gloom of the impending winter.
Mounted against the hyper-glamorous backdrop of the Design Miami/Basel fair, which takes place every December in the Sunshine State's chicest city, the venue was chosen by Jones, in the words of the brand, because "[Monsieur Dior] demonstrated his willingness to cross borders and explore new worlds, such as the American continent".
Where previous seasons at the Parisian couture house have seen Jones focus on muted shades and pastel hues, the British designer's Fall 2020 collection is an out-and-out celebration of primary colour. Hibiscus reds rub shoulders with pacific blues and there's plenty of saffron – all shades inspired, apparently, by "the art deco architecture of Miami Beach".
The garments, too, came imbued with a tutti frutti eclecticism befitting of the Floridian backdrop. There were fluid tropical wool top layers inspired by Monsieur Dior's original form-fitting bar jackets, there was a jazzy metal version of the saddle bag and there was a jaunty series of sailor's berets – finished with elegant floral motifs – created exclusively for the show by Dior's milliner Stephen Jones.
The real stand-out of the show came, unsurprisingly, in the form of Dior's Fall 2020 collaboration roster. Where in previous seasons Jones has worked with the likes of Kaws, Daniel Arsham and Raymond Pettibon, for this collection the designer has teamed up with Jordan Brand, to create a one-off take on the classic Air Jordan trainer, and with Shawn Stussy, the founder of streetwear brand Stussy, on a unique run of branding and jewellery for the show.
In terms of key pieces the stand-out has to be the Stussy logo-emblazoned sweater, which would have looked as rad on the back of Screech from Saved By The Bell as it will on yours come next autumn.
Now read:
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